Lower control arm cam bolt

[rbennett224]

Hey all, I’m currently in the middle of lowering my 2002 Mazda B2300 with the 3/5 Maxtrac drop. While I’m in there I’m replacing the torn lower ball joints with new lower control arms. The upper arms were replaced sometime before I bought the truck and appear to be in good condition so no need to replace those. I got the drivers side all together with no issues everything came apart with ease. When I got to the passenger side lower control arm I was surprised to see the rearward bolt was an eccentric bolt. I was wondering how I was supposed to remove this bolt? It’s not seized up it turns relatively easy, but when I turn the bolt the washers are getting locked up on the notches in the frame. Do I just cut the bolt out? If I cut the bolt out where do I find a replacement bolt? Both upper control arm bolts have regular bolts. Should I replace the upper bolts with camber bolts, and do I also need to replace the bushings? I’m new to the Ranger/B series platform so any help would be much appreciated! Thank you.

 

[pjtoledo]

the end with 10.9 is the bolt head.
that particular bolt has a Torx end at the other end to aid in adjusting. that's the second pic.
there is a nut on that ( Torx) end.
remove nut, push bolt out.

 

[rbennett224]

the end with 10.9 is the bolt head.
that particular bolt has a Torx end at the other end to aid in adjusting. that's the second pic.
there is a nut on that ( Torx) end.
remove nut, push bolt out.

Thank you I’ll try that. I was messing with it last night after tackling the drivers side. I needed to take a break and think. That makes so much sense now I appreciate it.

 

[JoshT]

Wow, have never noticed an adjuster bolt on the LCA. To the people on the know, is that a 2wd thing, or applicable to later models than my 99 4wd?

Pj got you on the bolt removal.

IMO I'd go ahead and I stall camber adjusters for the upper control arms. There is a high likelihood that the alignment shop will want/need them. Better to go ahead and install yourself while in there, than to pay them or have to do the work twice.

I probably wouldn't worry about replacing bushings unless they were obviously worn (loose, rattling, clunking, etc). I would check over ball joints and tierods for condition and worn/torn boots. Those are big gotchas for alignment shops.