8.8 4.10 from open to LSD ....can I do this?

[RangerBobMan]

I hadn't heard of a 'lunchbox locker'....checked it out a Summit (Powertrax) and am I reading this right? I'd be able to add a locker and not disturb any of the settings and bearings on my now quiet 4.10? Yeah it'll be 300-400.00 more than what I was planning...but for peace mind..should be worth it!
Thanks for the suggestion!

I’d either swap the entire axle or drop a lunchbox locker in. I’ve done both of those methods. Maybe once I actually have a shop to work in I’ll get into changing gears and carriers.

 

[Curious Hound]

I hadn't heard of a 'lunchbox locker'....checked it out a Summit (Powertrax) and am I reading this right? I'd be able to add a locker and not disturb any of the settings and bearings on my now quiet 4.10? Yeah it'll be 300-400.00 more than what I was planning...but for peace mind..should be worth it!
Thanks for the suggestion!

Yes. Mine is Aussie brand. It replaced the side gears and spider gears. Some of them work with your existing side gears (Powertrax?). Carrier stays in the housing. You dont Disturb any setup between ring and pinion.

They make some noise and hen you go around tight corners. May accelerate tire wear a little bit. But once you learn how to drive with it, there’s no real issue. I have one in both diffs on my truck and it will go almost anywhere I point it.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I hadn't heard of a 'lunchbox locker'....checked it out a Summit (Powertrax) and am I reading this right? I'd be able to add a locker and not disturb any of the settings and bearings on my now quiet 4.10? Yeah it'll be 300-400.00 more than what I was planning...but for peace mind..should be worth it!
Thanks for the suggestion!

Powertrax, Lock-Right, Aussie, Ox… they all make something that you can pull the cross shaft, spider and side gears and just drop it in and put the cross pin back in, no messing with gear pattern or anything. Supposedly the Powertrax is the quietest because it’s supposed to act more like a limited slip than a locker. The others may or may not be kind of noisy. But they do the job.

 

[broncc]

Please don't do a lock-rite/aussie/etc its really not worth it in any situation where the truck needs to drive on pavement.

I suggest reading the PDF below and deciding how comfortable you are with doing the work vs paying a shop or finding a 4.10LSD axle already set up. Skip the first 10 or so pages to get the vehicle non-specific part. There are a ton of guides on youtube with helpful tips and tricks as well. I like grinding the old bearings to be a slip-fit for making the pinion setup easier. Use a plain nut while setting up the pinion or you risk damaging the threads that hold the yoke on (that was a very expensive lesson)

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Please don't do a lock-rite/aussie/etc its really not worth it in any situation where the truck needs to drive on pavement.

I suggest reading the PDF below and deciding how comfortable you are with doing the work vs paying a shop or finding a 4.10LSD axle already set up. Skip the first 10 or so pages to get the vehicle non-specific part. There are a ton of guides on youtube with helpful tips and tricks as well. I like grinding the old bearings to be a slip-fit for making the pinion setup easier. Use a plain nut while setting up the pinion or you risk damaging the threads that hold the yoke on (that was a very expensive lesson)

A full carrier locker is definitely the way to go, especially if the vehicle sees a lot of street use. Unfortunately even if you do the work yourself, it’s still not super budget friendly. That’s where I ended up with my F-150. The one-wheel-peel just wasn’t getting it done for me. I couldn’t find a junkyard limited slip with the right gears at the time and I didn’t have a budget for a real locker at the time. I couldn’t tell you how many times I got stuck on the road because it rained or I was on a steep grade and had to start out from a stop. I was running around with the front hubs always locked in so I could use 4x4 to get going.

I’ve put over 70k on the lock-right that’s in it. I don’t regret that decision at all. But when I rebuild the truck in the next couple years, I’m going full carrier locker. Either a Detroit or an E-locker probably. I’m older now and I have the opportunity to build funds for how I want things. Back then it was my DD and my work rig. Once my dump truck is fixed, it will handle the heavy work while my F-150 gets rebuilt and my current DD is split between my green Ranger and Choptop, so I will have all I need to build it properly this time.

 

[Curious Hound]

No regrets with my lunchbox lockers. Probably 70% pavement use. Wish I could afford selectable lockers. But they’re for rich people.

 

[00t444e]

Anyone have any experience with one of these?

Yes works the same as a Lock Right and the others just more expensive.

 

[00t444e]

Please don't do a lock-rite/aussie/etc its really not worth it in any situation where the truck needs to drive on pavement.

I suggest reading the PDF below and deciding how comfortable you are with doing the work vs paying a shop or finding a 4.10LSD axle already set up. Skip the first 10 or so pages to get the vehicle non-specific part. There are a ton of guides on youtube with helpful tips and tricks as well. I like grinding the old bearings to be a slip-fit for making the pinion setup easier. Use a plain nut while setting up the pinion or you risk damaging the threads that hold the yoke on (that was a very expensive lesson)

I have driven hundreds of thousands of miles on the pavement with mine over the years in several different vehicles and never had a problem.

 

[00t444e]

Well... you can't just leave us hanging here. Got a link to this?

I'm curious... because I'd like to do something to my pick up for better off road chops.

At 133k miles... if i pull it apart to do a carrier... i would have to regear. Then the front diff would also need a gear. While in there... I'd have to do a carrier. That adds up to a solid over my budget price tag. If I go that far I'd rather regear the Bronco II.

I don't think I put more then 10k miles on it in three years. I don't drive much... but it's still my daily. Just around town and a couple longish trips each year. Those trips are exactly why I'd like to have a locker.

A drop in locker would be cost effective... but worried a bit about the manners and the clack... bang... boom when on pavement.

If there is something in set up that helps with that... do share.

Why do you think this? You don't have to regear to change the carrier.

 

[00t444e]

People wondering about the sound, here is a clip from my Jeep with Spartan lockers, they work the same as a lock right.

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

youtube.com

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Why do you think this? You don't have to regear to change the carrier.

You do have to set up the gears and replace carrier bearings if you are doing it right.

And the carrier itself is stupid expensive.

 

[Shran]

Spartan lockers are really popular around here and they seem to be really good quality.

I've had a Lock-rite in my front axle for about 12 years, and have had zero issues with it. I thought the pins in it were going to be the weak link in my front axle... nope... I've broken a bunch of Warn hubs and most recently an RCV outer shaft but never the locker.

I think it all depends on what you want to do and how far you're willing to tear the axles down... if you just want lockers and you're happy with gear ratio you have, lunchbox lockers of any brand are by far your best bang for your buck. But if you're regearing anyway... there is no time like the present... and with the price of things, it's hard not to go with something selectable. Grizzly and some of the full carrier limited slips are somewhat reasonably priced but jeez even a Detroit can be almost a grand. ARB, Ox or E-locker are just a bit more than that... Zip air locker is probably the most affordable selectable though.

What I would NOT do is re-gear with open carriers and then do lunchbox lockers... that is not a good use of money.

 

[00t444e]

You do have to set up the gears and replace carrier bearings if you are doing it right.

And the carrier itself is stupid expensive.

All you have to do is get new carrier bearings and a shim kit. Mesure the backlash before you take the old carrier out then set the backlash on the new one the same.

 

[00t444e]

Spartan lockers are really popular around here and they seem to be really good quality.

I've had a Lock-rite in my front axle for about 12 years, and have had zero issues with it. I thought the pins in it were going to be the weak link in my front axle... nope... I've broken a bunch of Warn hubs and most recently an RCV outer shaft but never the locker.

I think it all depends on what you want to do and how far you're willing to tear the axles down... if you just want lockers and you're happy with gear ratio you have, lunchbox lockers of any brand are by far your best bang for your buck. But if you're regearing anyway... there is no time like the present... and with the price of things, it's hard not to go with something selectable. Grizzly and some of the full carrier limited slips are somewhat reasonably priced but jeez even a Detroit can be almost a grand. ARB, Ox or E-locker are just a bit more than that... Zip air locker is probably the most affordable selectable though.

What I would NOT do is re-gear with open carriers and then do lunchbox lockers... that is not a good use of money.

That's what I did on my Jeep and I have beat on it for 7 years with 35s, they have held up fine. About $1000 cheaper than going with full carrier lockers.

 

[sgtsandman]

Why do you think this? You don't have to regear to change the carrier.

I think he is talking about regearing because he went up to a 32" tire. If he has 3.73 gears, I imagine it can be a bit doggy at times. Mine is with 31" tires.