• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)


Thanks, at least climbing under there is easy. Looking at the driver's side valve cover gasket, it IS leaking at the rear and draining down.

On a positive note I installed a 2004 under hood insulator. I found one during one of my junkyard crawls. It fits sorts, had to drill 4 new holes with a step bit so not to leave marks on the top surface, now I have 3 more mounting points than stock, stole the push pins from the donor truck. Painted the donor insulator with a satin black VHT rattle can. Makes everything else look as old as it really is, like the owner ~
1726148708316.jpeg
 
In a year or so those used Rangers will hit the market for sale. Just broken in.

Need to source some sway bar bushings. The current ones (4kmi / 2 years) are shot already. Cracked and split. Considering urethane. Maybe not & stick with the softer black OEM style neoprene. The 4.0 lower pan is leaking again. Can I R&R that lower oil pan gasket w/o propping the engine up does anyone know? The 10mm bolts are maxed out.
If it’s a 4.0 SOHC, the lower pan can be R&Rd in the vehicle, I’ve done it before. The upper pan cannot, it requires at least lifting up the engine, and is made even more difficult since you have a 4x4.
 
Uh oh….

IMG_2808.jpeg


Center cap is marking a pothole somewhere. I have spares, but I’ll still have to find a couple more since I had exactly the number of spares I need for the casket project. I put a tiny dab of E 6000 on three of the five clips as I have done before when they barely snap on.

Those 15 inch wheels are a mixed batch of Craigslist finds. I’m searching for a couple more of those too, but prices have gone up since Covid.

IMHO nobody knows how to use a torque wrench anymore. When they change a tire, they drive the nuts on those mag wheels with a 200 psi air impact and hog out the holes. If you question it, they put a torque wrench on the nut and turn it until it clicks (no motion), and they say “see, it’s tight enough.” Then I explain that the nut is supposed to move before it clicks to ensure it’s at the right pressure, not overtightened. Then they look at me like I’m some kind of crazy mean old bastard (I am, but that has nothing to do with it).

For the spare on the Road Ranger, the holes are so hogged out, the only way I can put the center cap on it is if I put a lock washer underneath the Lug nut. It’s not being used as a washer, just a spacer.

And I have a mag wheel for the spare under the Missing Linc that is the same, but not as bad. I wouldn’t want to drive on either one longer than it takes me to get the tire fixed on the one that went flat.

And I’d still like to get a 15 inch steelie for the Missing Linc and paint it, but trips to the pull-apart have become rare since I’ve got everything running the way I want.

I don’t know what the hell I’m gonna bitch about when I get all this stuff taken care of (but I’ll find something)
 
I’m some kind of crazy mean old bastard (I am, but that has nothing to do with it)
Well I don’t think you are, so there’s that.
 
Uh oh….

View attachment 117235

Center cap is marking a pothole somewhere. I have spares, but I’ll still have to find a couple more since I had exactly the number of spares I need for the casket project. I put a tiny dab of E 6000 on three of the five clips as I have done before when they barely snap on.

Those 15 inch wheels are a mixed batch of Craigslist finds. I’m searching for a couple more of those too, but prices have gone up since Covid.

IMHO nobody knows how to use a torque wrench anymore. When they change a tire, they drive the nuts on those mag wheels with a 200 psi air impact and hog out the holes. If you question it, they put a torque wrench on the nut and turn it until it clicks (no motion), and they say “see, it’s tight enough.” Then I explain that the nut is supposed to move before it clicks to ensure it’s at the right pressure, not overtightened. Then they look at me like I’m some kind of crazy mean old bastard (I am, but that has nothing to do with it).

For the spare on the Road Ranger, the holes are so hogged out, the only way I can put the center cap on it is if I put a lock washer underneath the Lug nut. It’s not being used as a washer, just a spacer.

And I have a mag wheel for the spare under the Missing Linc that is the same, but not as bad. I wouldn’t want to drive on either one longer than it takes me to get the tire fixed on the one that went flat.

And I’d still like to get a 15 inch steelie for the Missing Linc and paint it, but trips to the pull-apart have become rare since I’ve got everything running the way I want.

I don’t know what the hell I’m gonna bitch about when I get all this stuff taken care of (but I’ll find something)

Time is money and running a cross iron and a torque wrench in order to do it correctly takes more time and effort. I've had the same discussions with tire shops and it goes in one ear and promptly right out the other.

While it doesn't matter as much with Rangers and other vehicles that have heavier lugs, if I find a problem (like a cross threaded lug nut or a broken one) while breaking them loose and retorquing them to proper spec, it goes right back to tje shop for them to repair it on their dime with proof they were the last ones to work on the truck.

You are correct that over torquing the lug nuts is hard on aluminum rims and they will use the BS line of using torque sticks. They might have them but I've seen first hand at many locations they don't use them either. Arguing about it is a losing battle. They just don't care as long as you don't come back within a certain period of time with a problem.

They also don't care that the women or children in your life can't get the tire off on the side of the road when they have a flat. And since most don't have the ability to do on the side of the road service, it doesn't effect them.

Thus, I keep the longest breaker bar I can find in the trucks in case they run into a problem and I can't come to help them out. That, at least, gives them a fighting chance of being able to take care of a flat themselves.
 
Thanks, at least climbing under there is easy. Looking at the driver's side valve cover gasket, it IS leaking at the rear and draining down.

On a positive note I installed a 2004 under hood insulator. I found one during one of my junkyard crawls. It fits sorts, had to drill 4 new holes with a step bit so not to leave marks on the top surface, now I have 3 more mounting points than stock, stole the push pins from the donor truck. Painted the donor insulator with a satin black VHT rattle can. Makes everything else look as old as it really is, like the owner ~
View attachment 117222
Try snugging up your bolts. That's all it took to stop my leak. I washed it down with Brakleen and so far so good. Been a few thousand miles.
 
Well i "installed" (stuck in the dash) my fancy 80's radio in the BII. Not wired in yet (gotta get the conversion plugs)...but looks pretty swanky....

20240912_120227.jpg


Originally was just gonna do the blown out wheel cylinder....BUT...once i got the drum off shoe material came with it. The back brakes are cooked.

Gonna order shoes and spring kit....its going next weekend to get the rear sill sured up. So pry wont tear it apart till after that.
 
Drove it to work while my wife drove F150 while she gets the oil changed and CEL checked out in the Bronco.

It's way too quiet in the cab.
 
Time is money and running a cross iron and a torque wrench in order to do it correctly takes more time and effort. I've had the same discussions with tire shops and it goes in one ear and promptly right out the other.

While it doesn't matter as much with Rangers and other vehicles that have heavier lugs, if I find a problem (like a cross threaded lug nut or a broken one) while breaking them loose and retorquing them to proper spec, it goes right back to tje shop for them to repair it on their dime with proof they were the last ones to work on the truck.

You are correct that over torquing the lug nuts is hard on aluminum rims and they will use the BS line of using torque sticks. They might have them but I've seen first hand at many locations they don't use them either. Arguing about it is a losing battle. They just don't care as long as you don't come back within a certain period of time with a problem.

They also don't care that the women or children in your life can't get the tire off on the side of the road when they have a flat. And since most don't have the ability to do on the side of the road service, it doesn't effect them.

Thus, I keep the longest breaker bar I can find in the trucks in case they run into a problem and I can't come to help them out. That, at least, gives them a fighting chance of being able to take care of a flat themselves.


Damn. I never thought of super over tightening the nuts on my ex’s car when we were going through the divorce.
 
Last edited:
You can probably find it cheap at any parts yard in your area. If you don't come up with one, let me know and I'll do some digging. I may have a few of the style you're running.

I appreciate it, but don’t go to any trouble. Period. I think I have six in the garage. I’m not using, but I do have plans for them.

One of the challenges in Atlanta is there is an organized crew of guys, totally legal, who’ll go into the pull apart every day and take every center, cap, hubcap, and wheel with a good tire on it, and then they turn around and sell them on craigslist or Facebook. The pull up part charges four dollars, and these guys get 15 or 20 on eBay.

Usually, when I find one, I find three or four, so I’ll just stock up again!
 
I appreciate it, but don’t go to any trouble. Period. I think I have six in the garage. I’m not using, but I do have plans for them.

One of the challenges in Atlanta is there is an organized crew of guys, totally legal, who’ll go into the pull apart every day and take every center, cap, hubcap, and wheel with a good tire on it, and then they turn around and sell them on craigslist or Facebook. The pull up part charges four dollars, and these guys get 15 or 20 on eBay.

Usually, when I find one, I find three or four, so I’ll just stock up again!

I wouldn't be going to any trouble. Period. I'm 90% certain that the caps that were on my Ranger recently were the same ones you are running and I know exactly where they are. They'll be going back on the truck temporarily, but I haope to have new wheels and tireson it before you reach completion on that trailer.

I'm also pretty certain that I'll stumble across a few more of them when I'm cleaning up around the house and shop over the next few weeks. So the offer is standing, no trouble involved. Period.
 
Not much, got back from the tractor pull thing on Monday night and had to get on an airplane to fly to San Antonio Tuesday morning at O dark thirty... (IE 5:10AM which meant leaving my house at 2:15AM). So needless to say I'm tired, but anyway...

Somewhat ranger related, the wife pulled the Explorer again but that thing won't put the power down... it had the best set of tires I have for the sploders on it but they are just some all season tires in a 355 75 15 flavor, when the sled stopped there were 4 black spots... she got beat by one square body chevy that weighed right at the top of the class, one Jeep Cherokee and three Grand Cherokee's, she of course had the smallest least aggressive tires...
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Latest posts

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top