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87 2.9 Evaporator Trauma


LD57

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2023
Messages
66
City
San Antonio
Vehicle Year
87
Transmission
Manual
Hey gang. I pulled the working just fine AC off the truck after Christmas so I could change the valve cover gaskets, along with alternator, water pump and power steering pump. Putting it back on as it's already getting hot here, and I decided to get a new accumulator/drier, which was replaced 3 years ago when she came out of mothballs.

So the orifice tube is STUCK SOLID in the bleeping evap line!!! I got a hold of it with forceps, and the end broke off. I tried compressed air, and working it with a skinny screwdriver, but no love. Am I screwed? It is factory air, and I'm sure it was a factory tube I put in there, but it's sure scooted in some.

Not the end of the world to replace the evap, but how in the wide world of sports do you get into that plastic thing? Are all fasteners from the engine bay? Hard to tell.

Thanks a ton for any advice!
 
I ordered a new evaporator right after posting. That writing was on the wall.

Not sure how to approach the housing. It *looks* like the half closest to the engine comes off?
Does the whole shebang have to come out? Help me Mr. Wizard, help me! 🤪
 
OK the orifice tube is in there and has a slight twist to come out. They actually make a tool to grab it properly so you can twist it to get it out. It usually twists about an eighth of a turn or so, maybe a hair less. You will see when you get a new orifice tube the lock that holds it in. Order a new orifice tube also if it doesn't come with one pre installed. This is a common DIY issue when it comes to the orifice tube.
 
Yeah, it didn't twist, it just broke off, and what the bleep, it's the original evap and they're not expensive, so new it is. Still hoping for some advice on getting the housing off. Thanks!!
 
Hmmmm...... wonder if it will come out if I get the cover closest to the engine off? I have the new core, and it doesn't appear to attach to anything, just held in by the housing where the lines pass through.

evap drawing.png
case image.png
 
Hmmmm...... wonder if it will come out if I get the cover closest to the engine off?

I'm pretty sure that that's all there is to it.
 
I'm pretty sure that that's all there is to it.

That would be great! I've seen comments as crazy as pull the engine to get to it!! :shok:

Hoping it goes like my other old ride, an E30 BMW. Most said you HAD to pull the dash out to change the heater core, and when I pulled the steering wheel and drivers seat out and slid under there, it was a 45 minute job, only because I paused for beer. The evap came out the other side and was a little more challenging, but a sawzall and cutting torch never came near the vehicle.:headbang:

If it turns out as easy as the heater core on the Ranger, I'll be pretty stoked. :cool:
 
You do not have to pull the valve cover or anything else except move some wiring out of the way to remove the evaporator core. I’ve successfully transplanted the whole system from one vehicle to another without opening it… the cover over the core is just a pain because the screws are hard to get to. Removing the inner fender liner helps a lot.
 
BOOM!

DSCN9921.JPG


POS camera!! :pissedoff:

Dropping the inner fender was the thing to do, and some of those screws were still a biatch to get to! And of course, one of the trickiest on the bottom had the screw clip rusted enough so it just spun. Managed to get it secure with vise grips and get that one out.

The next challenge was getting the cover off, as my engine has two heavy steel hoops that come up about 6" fastened between 2 header bolts. Great if I wanna pull the engine, but otherwise in the way!! Not about to try breaking those bolts loose, I *persuaded* that side to go a wee tad closer to the engine, and then things came out.

First day off in 12, yesterday was a 16hr beating, but I had to know if this would work, and it does.
I'll finish this weekend.

Speaking of wee tads, I got some single malt Irish whiskey calling my name and some firewood to burn, since it got nicely chilly here!
:icon_thumby:
 
Gitter done!

Good job; have yourself a :beer:
 
Good work! Now do it again with everything hooked up and the system charged! It's like trying to hold a handful of cooked spaghetti and straighten out each piece one by one...

I forgot about those engine puller loop things, those do get in the way. Not present on the 4.0's I did this on but there are plenty of other things.
 
Good job; have yourself a :beer:

Great idea!!

DSCN9922.JPG


Good work! Now do it again with everything hooked up and the system charged! It's like trying to hold a handful of cooked spaghetti and straighten out each piece one by one...

I'd repaired it long ago, not *really* knowing what I was doing, and replaced all but the evap and condenser when it came out of mothballs 3 years ago, and I think it's an easy system. Condenser would be easy, but man, I had no real clue what changing evap involved. When I got the new coil, I saw there were no mounting points, and then the 'sploded drawing suggested that if I get the right cover off, it will essentially fall out.
Not quite, but close enough!!

I'd stuck a shopvac nozzle through the resistor hole a few times, and with the blower motor out, and even sprayed coil cleaner in, but man, is it dirty and plugged. Gotta put a mesh over the cowl vents, as many a time I've changed the vent, turned on the fan, and a pile of dead, shredded leaves blows out on the floor. Booo!

It's gonna be way better now! If only I could find a higher velocity blower motor.
 
Persuaded the engine yank thingie just a tic further out of the way.

DSCN9927.JPG


Nice and snug! The new rubber cushion on back of it made it a good push to get it in there.

DSCN9930.JPG


Then I took that vacuum thingie off the firewall, and BOOM!!!!!

DSCN9932.JPG


All buttoned up, cuss jar is full!

Still need to flush the condenser, so that and plumbing, vac and fill tomorrow, as I have another critical function to correct.
My low beer light is on.
:beer:
 

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