Which limited slip is best?

[Lefty]

Which leads me back to my original answer for the question you are asking. To me, the Torsen or the Eaton Tru-Trac would be the best choice for your application just because there is less to worry about as long as you change the gear oil to maintain proper lubrication. No clutches to worry about wearing out and no additive to remember putting in the differential when changing the gear oil.

A clutch system will do the job and will probably be just fine but in the long run, there will be more maintenance with them over a worm gear actuated LSD.

Some have talked me away from the Torsen suggesting that it behaves a little more like a locker. What do you think?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

You are right about using the brake when one tire is in the air to get some torque on the axle to transfer some torque to the other axle. That is not the only way to get some torque on a free spinning axle. When you accelerate a free spinning wheel, it requires force to increase the rotational momentum. That force comes in the way of torque from the axle. That torque can then be used to send some torque to the other axle. I use this method in surface conditions like moguls where diagonal tires can be lifted or have little traction. I have a manual transmission and I don't have three feet, so the acceleration method has worked well for me.

We used that a lot at the Bronco Off-Roadeo a month ago. It was pretty impressive how much we could do just by doing that.

Which leads me back to my original answer for the question you are asking. To me, the Torsen or the Eaton Tru-Trac would be the best choice for your application just because there is less to worry about as long as you change the gear oil to maintain proper lubrication. No clutches to worry about wearing out and no additive to remember putting in the differential when changing the gear oil.

A clutch system will do the job and will probably be just fine but in the long run, there will be more maintenance with them over a worm gear actuated LSD.

Most oil has the additive in it and they generally run for 80-100k miles... which is sadly more than most 83-11 trucks have left in them.

I would find another Ranger with the same gearing you have, throw a set of clutches in it, swap your brakes over and just swap axles. Couple hundred bucks and you are done.

 

[Blmpkn]

I'm meeting with a mechanic next week Monday. All of these are on my wish list. He's going to track down what's available. My options may be limited. We will take it from there.

It's your money and your truck, you should make the decision. There is NO shortage of 8.8 lsds out there at the moment..

 

[sgtsandman]

Some have talked me away from the Torsen suggesting that it behaves a little more like a locker. What do you think?

From what I hear, that can be a thing. There is a bit of a learning curve since they can be a little grabby in certain situations.

A clutch system is more transparent.

Both can flip you around in slippery conditions. So, either way, there will be a learning curve and until you get used to having one, you’ll want to go easy.

Or you can go the route some of the others are suggesting and get an axle with an LSD in it. It will probably be broken in and close to worn out. That would ease you into the LSD world before you get the clutch packs replaced.

 

[Blmpkn]

Even a clutch type can 'act' like a locker.

The duragrip I had was 'locked' pretty much any time I was on the gas lol.

 

[Lefty]

Very good then. I will look into all the limited slips available out here. I told the mechanic I wanted a Torsen, a trac lock, or an Eaton. He says that they seldom work on differentials.

"Transparent" is a good word! I mentioned driving 3 other vehicles with limited slip. Yes, they have a tendency to go sideways. But for the most part, they were far more safe.

Isn't there a time when it's simply a good idea to crack them open, maybe change the oil, and have have a look? I do recall driving one open wheel car for about 330,000 miles. It still ran fine.

 

[sgtsandman]

Very good then. I will look into all the limited slips available out here. I told the mechanic I wanted a Torsen, a trac lock, or an Eaton. He says that they seldom work on differentials.

"Transparent" is a good word! I mentioned driving 3 other vehicles with limited slip. Yes, they have a tendency to go sideways. But for the most part, they were far more safe.

Isn't there a time when it's simply a good idea to crack them open, maybe change the oil, and have have a look? I do recall driving one open wheel car for about 330,000 miles. It still ran fine.

Opinions on gear oil changes are going to vary just like anything else.

I go by 30,000 miles for the rear differential and 60,000 miles for the front since most times it just along for the ride.

The exception to this is if I’ve been off roading somewhere where water has gotten up the axle seals. A hot axle, suddenly cooled by water can suck water in through the seals. Changing the fluid is cheap compared to replacing a rusted out axle due to water contamination.

Stories on differentials and their reliability are going to vary. Some of it may be based on their design. Junkyards are full of certain axles that are burned out because the gear oil was never changed. Conversely, there a good number of axles that have never seen a gear oil change and are still running just fine.

Vehicle manufacturers fall somewhere in the middle, depending on how the vehicle is equipped. I can’t remember the exact numbers but if I remember correctly, Ford recommends a gear oil change after 100K for the rear axle and 120K for the front if it has 80W90 gear oil. If it has something W140 in the rear axle, it’s a “for the life of the vehicle” service life.

Of course, they never specify what “for the life of the vehicle” means.

Long story short, let your conscience be your guide but I wouldn’t go more than 100K if you have an LSD.

As far as differential work, installing a new carrier is a pain and a lot of work getting the back lash and tooth engagement right. So, it’s not going to be cheap.

Also, most people just run what they have and don’t care about upgrades or any kind or they just swap in an axle closer to what they want.

Available axle options are somewhat limited though. If you aren’t looking for more than 4.10:1 and an LSD, there are options out there. If you want a higher numbered ratio, something other than a factory carrier, or a combination of both, you are going to have to rip out what you have and install what you want.

 

[Blmpkn]

I told the mechanic I wanted a Torsen, a trac lock, or an Eaton. He says that they seldom work on differentials.

His response confuses me a bit..

 

[Lefty]

From what I hear, that can be a thing. There is a bit of a learning curve since they can be a little grabby in certain situations.

A clutch system is more transparent.

Both can flip you around in slippery conditions. So, either way, there will be a learning curve and until you get used to having one, you’ll want to go easy.

Or you can go the route some of the others are suggesting and get an axle with an LSD in it. It will probably be broken in and close to worn out. That would ease you into the LSD world before you get the clutch packs replaced.

You are entirely right about finding an axle. I've spent 2 summers looking for a good one and never found one worth pulling. They were all badly rusted, most leaking, nothing in as good condition as my own. I surfed junk dealers too, only to find the same for significantly higher prices. This year already, I noticed a significant deterioration in the quality of junkyard Rangers. That good old Ranger fleet is aging. People up north here hang on to them for as long as they can.

It's going to cost me somewhere between $1,200 and $1,400 to get a new LS installed, depending on the condition of my own differential. I've got the cash. I might spend a little less if I pulled the parts, but I would still need to pay a reliable mechanic to rebuild and repair.

You've all read my threads before. I'm an old car guy who is devoted to resto-mod. I've spent a little more that $20,000 on it already. That might sound crazy but mine is very close to brand new, and for half the price. It's got new paint top and bottom, suspension upgrades, an oak bedliner, dual exhausts, leather seats, new wheels, tires, lights and fog lights. The grill is custom made.

The Ford dealer told me I've got the nicest old Ranger in town. I hope so. I will give this to my grandson some day. Limited slip will be just one more nice feature.

 

[Blmpkn]

The limited slip is going to be replacing your current differential.

 

[Lefty]

Opinions on gear oil changes are going to vary just like anything else.

I go by 30,000 miles for the rear differential and 60,000 miles for the front since most times it just along for the ride.

The exception to this is if I’ve been off roading somewhere where water has gotten up the axle seals. A hot axle, suddenly cooled by water can suck water in through the seals. Changing the fluid is cheap compared to replacing a rusted out axle due to water contamination.

Stories on differentials and their reliability are going to vary. Some of it may be based on their design. Junkyards are full of certain axles that are burned out because the gear oil was never changed. Conversely, there a good number of axles that have never seen a gear oil change and are still running just fine.

Vehicle manufacturers fall somewhere in the middle, depending on how the vehicle is equipped. I can’t remember the exact numbers but if I remember correctly, Ford recommends a gear oil change after 100K for the rear axle and 120K for the front if it has 80W90 gear oil. If it has something W140 in the rear axle, it’s a “for the life of the vehicle” service life.

Of course, they never specify what “for the life of the vehicle” means.

Long story short, let your conscience be your guide but I wouldn’t go more than 100K if you have an LSD.

As far as differential work, installing a new carrier is a pain and a lot of work getting the back lash and tooth engagement right. So, it’s not going to be cheap.

Also, most people just run what they have and don’t care about upgrades or any kind or they just swap in an axle closer to what they want.

Available axle options are somewhat limited though. If you aren’t looking for more than 4.10:1 and an LSD, there are options out there. If you want a higher numbered ratio, something other than a factory carrier, or a combination of both, you are going to have to rip out what you have and install what you want.

Exactly! Thanks! And I really like the 8.8/4:10 set up on mine. It's a keeper!

Thanks for all your great advice. This truck (and many others) have been made better as a result!

 

[Lefty]

The limited slip is going to be replacing your current differential.

Really? I thought they would use some of what is there.

 

[fastpakr]

Really? I thought they would use some of what is there.

The axle housing, shafts, and gears are the same, but the entire differential assembly is removed and replaced.

 

[Lefty]

The limited slip is going to be replacing your current differential.

Really? I thought they would use at least some of what is already there.

 

[Lefty]

The axle housing, shafts, and gears are the same, but the entire differential assembly is removed and replaced.

Well that's okay too