Manual locking hubs

[85_Ranger4x4]

with the feds subjecting all manufactures to CAFE (corporate average fuel consumption) standards you can bet Ford could not find any significant
advantage to go with manual hubs.

The new Ranger is fully locked like the OP's.

However the Bronco has a central axle disconnect UNLESS it has automatic 4wd, then it is fully locked like a Ranger.

 

[Josh B]

Hey Shawn, welcome to TRS!

 

[James Morse]

So for Rangers there are auto hubs, manual hubs, PV hubs, and fully locked hubs, have I got that right?
I don't mind changing the manual hubs because (a) it seems to never snow here any more and (b) for offroad I don't mind getting out at the begin and end of it and if it's raining hard I'm probably not doing it. So I don't see it as a big deal but I can see how auto hubs might be nice for other situations. I just thought going to manuals would be better, of course after all the trouble getting them apart in retrospect maybe it wasn't such a good idea for that reason, but, I kind of like the idea of knowing, they're locked, period, not locking and unlocking by themselves.
What are problems with manual hubs? To me they are much simpler so what is there to break?

I get the idea of CV in the fully locked hubs, I had to replace CV in a Saab so I kind of know what they are a little bit. If the boot tears and sand/salt gets in them they will let go pretty quick. That was up north where I used to live. My gut says U-joints are ruggeder than CV's but I don't know.

Kind of related, old Saabs had free-wheel, it unlocked... something... anyway they way it worked was you could coast downhill with no load on the engine but if you gave it gas they locked in. Kind of cool. There was a handle near the floor you pulled or pushed to change it.

 

[Manscout]

"What are problems with manual hubs? To me they are much simpler so what is there to break? "

What I mentioned earlier: My '98 has the manuals and it is a pain to hop out and turn them in every time I need 4x4 in the winter. Plus, if your CVs wear out at all, the hubs tend to fly off.
I lost at least three of them before figuring out my CV axle was just barely going bad. The manual hubs are held on only by plastic pressure clips. In addition, I notice extra drag when they are engaged and I am not in 4x4. 1-2mpg hit when I have driven in winter with them engaged and not in 4x4.
Cost and quality: Mile Markers run $150/set. You can find knock-offs on eBay for about $50.

 

[Josh B]

I'm not certain what you're talking about sir, but I am happy with the automatics on mine, I have never had to step out for one minute to engage or disengage anything!
I recall going along with a friend on an icy morning and spending half an hour trying to lock them in! Trouble was it was just too frozen cold to accomplish such a task
I have never had any regrets about the lockers on mine, they have come through for me every time

 

[James Morse]

Josh he's saying the manuals are the ones you have to get out and engage/disengage.
And that he feels the (other) problem with manuals is if the CV's wear out then the hubs come off which I don't really get but doesn't apply to me anyways.
As far as I can tell the only way the hub can come off is the whole wheel has to come off so I'm kinda lost on that.
You like the autos, I like the manuals, but different situations - unless the weather changes a lot here, I never am using 4wd on the highway so there's no convenience factor to me, I don't mine engaging them when I go 4x4 just like you might air down and up afterwards.
My autos worked ok I just don't like the idea of them engaging/disengaging when you back up, I like to know, they're on, period. But I see that in another situation I might prefer the autos.

 

[Manscout]

Here are some pics to help. I am referring to the 4x4 locking hubs; not the wheel bearing/hub assembly. The 4x4 hubs attach to a lip on the wheel bearing/hub assembly. You can see how they just clip on. You can pop them off with a screwdriver.

Now, normally, the CV stub rotates smoothly in a circle with the assistance of the hub assembly and 4x4 hub holding it somewhat in place. Once the 4x4 hubs are engaged, they are either driving or dragging on the CV stub. If there is enough wear in the CV axle on the stub, it will try to move in an elliptical pattern instead of circular. Since the 4x4 hubs are only held on by the plastic clips, there can be enough pressure from the stub portion moving in the elliptical pattern to pop it off. Since the 4x4 hub internals are plastic and metal, this usually causes them to break into two parts.

All of this is reason why you should be thankful for your always locked scenario.

 

[Josh B]

Josh he's saying the manuals are the ones you have to get out and engage/disengage.
And that he feels the (other) problem with manuals is if the CV's wear out then the hubs come off which I don't really get but doesn't apply to me anyways.
As far as I can tell the only way the hub can come off is the whole wheel has to come off so I'm kinda lost on that.
You like the autos, I like the manuals, but different situations - unless the weather changes a lot here, I never am using 4wd on the highway so there's no convenience factor to me, I don't mine engaging them when I go 4x4 just like you might air down and up afterwards.
My autos worked ok I just don't like the idea of them engaging/disengaging when you back up, I like to know, they're on, period. But I see that in another situation I might prefer the autos.

Well if you ever want to swap them auto hubs tell me what you want for em

 

[James Morse]

Yes Josh I remember and I did have you in mind if I get rid of them.

Those locking hubs are completely different than mine, which are one piece only and fit over the lug nuts so this is a totally different setup from '97 locking hubs.

 

[Josh B]

Here are some pics to help. I am referring to the 4x4 locking hubs; not the wheel bearing/hub assembly. The 4x4 hubs attach to a lip on the wheel bearing/hub assembly. You can see how they just clip on. You can pop them off with a screwdriver.

Now, normally, the CV stub rotates smoothly in a circle with the assistance of the hub assembly and 4x4 hub holding it somewhat in place. Once the 4x4 hubs are engaged, they are either driving or dragging on the CV stub. If there is enough wear in the CV axle on the stub, it will try to move in an elliptical pattern instead of circular. Since the 4x4 hubs are only held on by the plastic clips, there can be enough pressure from the stub portion moving in the elliptical pattern to pop it off. Since the 4x4 hub internals are plastic and metal, this usually causes them to break into two parts.

All of this is reason why you should be thankful for your always locked scenario.


View attachment 99493

View attachment 99491View attachment 99492

That's bullshit
I would never be happy mine were locked when they were not needed to be so.
What could that possibly avail? Immense wear and tear for no good reason?
That's why there is a 1st gear and a 4th, they serve different purposes
Case in point, a frozen day but roads are mostly clear, I get on a side road and miss a turn, try stopping but slide a bit, try backing up but not enough traction. Push a button and use 4wd to get needed traction to re-aline myself with the turn. Push button again, 2wd, no point in dragging limited slip around on asphalt. Bon Voyage