What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[ITSA 7]

Yesterday I saw an add in Craigslist for an aluminum cap/camper shell that fit my 97 supercab Ranger---for $100--- It is now sitting in my driveway waiting for me to finish installing, fuel cell, fuel lines and batteries in the bed. I want to keep that stuff out of sight and maybe ad to the sleeper look.

 

[ThatOneGuy]

Well I didn't know it but today was the day they cashed out all my vacation, sooooo I bought some k02s, kyb rear shocks for the ranger as well as a full set of bullet holes that were on a trashed b2 that just went to our wrecking yard. As well as a starter for the b2300, should be easier to sell if I don't have to push start it

 

[rubydist]

Yesterday I saw an add in Craigslist for an aluminum cap/camper shell that fit my 97 supercab Ranger---for $100--- It is now sitting in my driveway waiting for me to finish installing, fuel cell, fuel lines and batteries in the bed. I want to keep that stuff out of sight and maybe ad to the sleeper look.

So you are going to do the Farmtruck look and start racing Vettes and Lambos??

 

[ITSA 7]

Why not. ITSA 7.0L 351w with heads,cam and 4bbl carb,reverse pattern manual C-4 W/brake,Explorer 8.8 with 48in ladder bars,and 29.5 x 15W slicks.And if needed a 200 shot.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Just to clear things up, I took a couple minutes to search for the '97 super cab fuel tank capacity and all of the places said 20.5 gallons... What they migrated to after that I didn't look into...

 

[Curious Hound]

Found some artwork on the intake manifold.

 

[Rick W]

Oh wise ones…..

Not a Ranger thing, forgive me.

1996 F250 7.3 Auto 4WD, long long

I’ve owned it since new, excellent condition, about 115,000 miles

I don’t drive much, but I’ve been driving it this week because it has air-conditioning.

When I was going down the road, it cut out for a split second, not even long enough to lose any speed.

When I got back to the driveway, and it was just idling, it quit again. This time it wouldn’t start. I tried a couple times, I let it sit a minute, and then it started again.

Anybody have any ideas of what I should check or swap?

 

[G8orFord]

Oh wise ones…..

Not a Ranger thing, forgive me.

1996 F250 7.3 Auto 4WD, long long

I’ve owned it since new, excellent condition, about 115,000 miles

I don’t drive much, but I’ve been driving it this week because it has air-conditioning.

When I was going down the road, it cut out for a split second, not even long enough to lose any speed.

When I got back to the driveway, and it was just idling, it quit again. This time it wouldn’t start. I tried a couple times, I let it sit a minute, and then it started again.

Anybody have any ideas of what I should check or swap?

I can't help you much on the old model 7.3. If it was a 6.0 or newer I might have some knowledge. What I can do is point you here: https://www.powerstroke.org/forums/94-98-7-3l-general-powerstroke-discussion.15/
Great guys over there. Not sure how active the 94-98 forums are, but if you don't get help there, pop in to the 6.0 forums. A lot of those guys are very knowledgeable too.

 

[Rick W]

I can't help you much on the old model 7.3. If it was a 6.0 or newer I might have some knowledge. What I can do is point you here: https://www.powerstroke.org/forums/94-98-7-3l-general-powerstroke-discussion.15/
Great guys over there. Not sure how active the 94-98 forums are, but if you don't get help there, pop in to the 6.0 forums. A lot of those guys are very knowledgeable too.

Thank you!

 

[ThatOneGuy]

Got the new socks and shoes on the 89, realized

we orderd the wrong shocks, it's so nice on Saturdays when there are only 2 techs at the shop I can work on personal stuff between calls, mounted and balanced by myself for free.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Oh wise ones…..

Not a Ranger thing, forgive me.

1996 F250 7.3 Auto 4WD, long long

I’ve owned it since new, excellent condition, about 115,000 miles

I don’t drive much, but I’ve been driving it this week because it has air-conditioning.

When I was going down the road, it cut out for a split second, not even long enough to lose any speed.

When I got back to the driveway, and it was just idling, it quit again. This time it wouldn’t start. I tried a couple times, I let it sit a minute, and then it started again.

Anybody have any ideas of what I should check or swap?

If I was going to throw out a wild ass guess I would say cam sensor with those symptoms

 

[Snoranger]

Oh wise ones…..

Not a Ranger thing, forgive me.

1996 F250 7.3 Auto 4WD, long long

I’ve owned it since new, excellent condition, about 115,000 miles

I don’t drive much, but I’ve been driving it this week because it has air-conditioning.

When I was going down the road, it cut out for a split second, not even long enough to lose any speed.

When I got back to the driveway, and it was just idling, it quit again. This time it wouldn’t start. I tried a couple times, I let it sit a minute, and then it started again.

Anybody have any ideas of what I should check or swap?

If I was going to throw out a wild ass guess I would say cam sensor with those symptoms

7.3L can sensors are one it’s most common issues. (There’s not much else that can go wrong with one.) Usually they’ll start failing as the truck warms up and then work again after it cools. If you ignore that long enough, it just stops working.

It never hurts to to replace the cam sensor.

 

[Rick W]

Thank you thank you!

It quit again on the ride home from Sweet Pea’s last night (2 miles). It quit, I rolled to the side of the road (got to play with my code 3 lights). It wouldn’t crank immediately, so I remembered an old trick from injected Lincolns/other Fords. I turned the key on so the fuel pump would build up pressure, and then I turned the key to crank it and it started, and then I made it the thousand feet to my driveway, and then had a contemplative, inspirational and relaxing glass of Canadian whiskey.

A little bit more information. A long while ago the mechanic overtightened the Injection Control Pressure (ICP) sensor on the top/side of the fuel filter bowl (it’s only supposed to be hand tightened) and cracked a socket. Hairline crack. I’ve had a minuscule drip, and occasionally when I started the truck, I would get the surges. I could immediately stop the surges simply by stepping on the gas, and raising the idle for 10 seconds. And then the truck ran like new.

Of course, common sense tells me to go right there and fix that first, but again I’m looking for those more knowledgeable: is this something that would cause the truck to just quit without warning (but restart almost immediately)?

I bought the new fuel filter bowl/housing and hoses a while ago, but never replaced it since all I had was a tiny drip on something I drive once every other month.

All comments and advice welcome, and of course it is Ranger related since they’re going to get a lot of mileage now!

And no need to tell me, I’m a bonehead for not changing it when I got it, that realization sunk in pretty good overnight.

 

[scotts90ranger]

There is not an electric pump on those things, cycling the key only cycles the glow plugs and computer power... the only fuel pump is in the valley of the pump just behind the fuel bowl... I think the ICP sensor symptoms are rough running not full stall. The valve cover gaskets/injector harnesses make them run bad too, my boss had that issue once, it ran but just real bad...

You have the signs of a failing speed sensor and the only one is the cam sensor, it's an easy change, passenger side of the front of the engine about half way up if memory serves.

Years ago mine lost power gradually about 20 miles from home while I was towing so I'd spent some time looking into it changing the easy things, turned out the HPOP had died which is a hard one to swallow price wise... I found a used one and am still running on that, will put a modified rebuilt one in maybe next year when I get new injectors... It's on the "list", so is installing an intercooler...

 

[Rick W]

There is not an electric pump on those things, cycling the key only cycles the glow plugs and computer power... the only fuel pump is in the valley of the pump just behind the fuel bowl... I think the ICP sensor symptoms are rough running not full stall. The valve cover gaskets/injector harnesses make them run bad too, my boss had that issue once, it ran but just real bad...

You have the signs of a failing speed sensor and the only one is the cam sensor, it's an easy change, passenger side of the front of the engine about half way up if memory serves.

Years ago mine lost power gradually about 20 miles from home while I was towing so I'd spent some time looking into it changing the easy things, turned out the HPOP had died which is a hard one to swallow price wise... I found a used one and am still running on that, will put a modified rebuilt one in maybe next year when I get new injectors... It's on the "list", so is installing an intercooler...

Thanks again. My mission for the moment is simply to put it in the spot in the driveway where I could work on it. Then we’re going to have to wait for the temperature to dip, looks like Tuesday or Wednesday. I’ll get a cam sensor in the meantime and probably change that and the fuel filter bowl.

Just FYI, and I do appreciate all the thinking taps out there, it runs like a top and it’s as strong as a horse or two. This is an intermittent cut out. I bet you I haven’t put 5000 miles on it in ten years, but the last time I had it “tuned up” is probably 10-11 years ago before I got hurt.