What did you do to your 2019 and up Ranger today?

[Snoranger]

My rear pads were smoked at 36k miles, slides absolutely not sticking. The slide bores, the slides themselves, and the grease.. all immaculate. Changed the pads myself with much swearing about the stupid spin-em-in pistons.

The last time I took it in for a service.. around 38k.. the tech (for the first time ever) actually measured how much pad was on its backer on all 4 corners... ready for this?.... the fronts had 8mm, the rears had 9mm.

My truck had gone through *at least* 9mm of pad in the rear over 38k miles while only using a measly 1 or 2mm up front

A somewhat popular theory on the '5g' site is that the trucks can/will/do engage the traction control much more frequently than what's indicated by the dash light, leading to the incredible amount of wear on the rears.

I'm personally not sure how strong of a theory that is.. considering that my modulation of the trucks gas pedal was on-par with how an 80 year old man does it.. but who knows.

Definitely the first vehicle I've owned thats needed rears first.

We’ve got 40 or so full size Transit vans, they all burn through rear brakes between 18k and 20k miles.


I just double checked… it’s around 22k miles that they get rear brakes and tires. They’re all T350s and not overloaded.

 

[JohnnyO]

Definitely the first vehicle I've owned thats needed rears first.

Same.

 

[sgtsandman]

See? It isn't just the weird guy in the corner!

I have everything lined up to get the fluid changes done on the 2019. Gear oil for the front and rear differentials and oil and a filter for the engine.

I wanted to install an ARB rear differential cover so I don't have to keep popping the cover off every time a fluid change is due but it seems supply chain issues have raised it's head again. I'll check a few more web sites before I throw in the towel. The reason I'm focused on the ARB cover it that it's cast iron and the profile around the gear ring is right. Most of the available covers are aluminum and the profile is of an old design that not only requires more gear oil but doesn't promote proper oil flow. If I never planned on taking the truck off the pavement, I might not worry about it so much but it eventually will and Murphy with his damn Law likes to hang around me for some reason. The cover will could get broken from picking a bad line and aluminum is more likely to get broken than cast iron.

 

[CMOS]

My average MPG thus far. About 70% highway driving, 30% city. Not too shabby.

CMOS

 

[JohnnyO]

Installed new rear shocks. Had to get creative with the lower left bolt as the nut was spinning inside the bracket.

 

[CMOS]

Installed new rear shocks. Had to get creative with the lower left bolt as the nut was spinning inside the bracket. View attachment 93962
View attachment 93963

Did you replace them with OEM shocks, or something different?

CMOS

 

[JohnnyO]

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

youtube.com

 

[JohnnyO]

Did you replace them with OEM shocks, or something different?

CMOS

Plain old Monroe gas. Rock Auto, $40 each.

 

[CMOS]

Do you feel a ride difference right away?

CMOS

 

[JohnnyO]

Do you feel a ride difference right away

Dunno, haven't driven it yet. LOL.
Will let you know. I'm trying to find out what is causing the vibration I feel. Wheels been balanced a couple times but it's worse on some roads than others so I thought I'd change the shocks first.

 

[sgtsandman]

Dunno, haven't driven it yet. LOL.
Will let you know. I'm trying to find out what is causing the vibration I feel. Wheels been balanced a couple times but it's worse on some roads than others so I thought I'd change the shocks first.

Hope that fixes the problem. Blmkn had an vibration issue and it turned out to be the support bearing for the driveshaft. Outside of buying a single piece shaft as a replacement, there wasn't a remedy. The dealers can't get a replacement for the OEM and I think there was a supply issue with the single piece.

 

[Blmpkn]

Hope that fixes the problem. Blmkn had an vibration issue and it turned out to be the support bearing for the driveshaft. Outside of buying a single piece shaft as a replacement, there wasn't a remedy. The dealers can't get a replacement for the OEM and I think there was a supply issue with the single piece.

I actually had no vibrations... it was just a constant grinding very much like bad rear brakes.

Which is wierd.. usually a bad center bearing will cause vibrations.. but they usually also squeal like a stuck pig instead of grind too so idk

But yeah.. factory ford shafts are backordered indefinitely. Not sure what the hold up is.. but it may also affect the aftermarket single piece options. The availability of the single piece shafts has been hit or miss over the past couple years.. I *think* due to the ujoints being brand new.. and their manufacturer not being able to keep up.. something along those lines anyways.

 

[sgtsandman]

I actually had no vibrations... it was just a constant grinding very much like bad rear brakes.

Which is wierd.. usually a bad center bearing will cause vibrations.. but they usually also squeal like a stuck pig instead of grind too so idk

But yeah.. factory ford shafts are backordered indefinitely. Not sure what the hold up is.. but it may also affect the aftermarket single piece options. The availability of the single piece shafts has been hit or miss over the past couple years.. I *think* due to the ujoints being brand new.. and their manufacturer not being able to keep up.. something along those lines anyways.

Thanks for the correction.

 

[RumPunch]

Anyone changed out the factory speakers? What did you do/use?

 

[sgtsandman]

Anyone changed out the factory speakers? What did you do/use?

No on any of my trucks but I have on previous vehicles. Sony 3-way and 4-way speakers made a big difference and didn't break the bank. Much more than changing out the head unit did. Not that there is really a way to do that on these new models.