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Engine & Transmission Install Question: One Unit or Separately?


@RumPunch Looking at the picture you posted, where is the opening in the floor compared to where that strap is cinched around the tranny?

I ask because; A) it looks like the strap might be at/near the balance point and B) that's kind of what I had in mind if I chose to use a come-a-long & 4x4.

Thanks.
 
So that pic was when i was joining the trans to the engine. I looked but don’t have any when set it in. I used a rather strap looped around the trans output housing to the cherry picker to adjust the cant of the trans.
 
I was looking at Ranger pics that are taken thru the door windows into the interior. It appears as if a 4x4 could be placed in front of the side mirrors, on each door, spanning the cab. That would place the 4x4 directly above the shifter opening in the transmission tunnel. And, instead of a 4x4, you could use two 2x4s with a 3/4" (or 1" ) spacer between them. This would allow enough of a gap, between the 2x4s, to insert a pulley, located above the tunnel opening. All I need to do is figure out how to create an anchor point, for the come-a-long, at the end of the 2x4s and that should work.
 
I prefer to do engine and trans as together, 100x easier to disconnect the trans once it's out.

I second the chain fall hoist too, way more accurate then a cherry picker. I hang the chain fall from the rafters in my garage and roll the car out from under the trans as it comes out. A lifted truck might be harder to do this way with less overhead clearance.
 
Truck is not lifted. What's the ceiling height of your garage?

Mine is 8'2"

Floor to bottom of rafter is 9’1”, but I layed a 4x4 across the rafters and hung the chain fall from that, so add 6”.

Wrapped a chain around the 4x4, hung the hoist from that. Had plenty of overhead space, but I was also pulling the engine out of a mustang.
 
Don't forget to take into account the suspension travel
When you lift the weight of engine(and trans) off the springs the front end comes up quite a ways, 8-10" maybe more

If using a cherry picker type lift you can just take off front tires and lower the front, lol, if lift can't clear rad support

If using a fixed lift and you need to roll the vehicle back, then you need the wheels left on, and need enough clearance/lift built-in for this
I have chained the front suspension(coil type) while weight is on them, so when engine is lifted body only comes up a bit
 
Don't forget to take into account the suspension travel
When you lift the weight of engine(and trans) off the springs the front end comes up quite a ways, 8-10" maybe more

If using a cherry picker type lift you can just take off front tires and lower the front, lol, if lift can't clear rad support

If using a fixed lift and you need to roll the vehicle back, then you need the wheels left on, and need enough clearance/lift built-in for this
I have chained the front suspension(coil type) while weight is on them, so when engine is lifted body only comes up a bit

I've done a variation of that.
removed the shocks and replaced with a length of 1/2" threaded rod.
almost anything can be used as a crossbar on the bottom, on top I used coupling nuts to spread the load.
planning the length allows you to collapse the spring or totally release it.
 
Floor to bottom of rafter is 9’1”, but I laid a 4x4 across the rafters and hung the chain fall from that, so add 6”.

Wrapped a chain around the 4x4, hung the hoist from that. Had plenty of overhead space, but I was also pulling the engine out of a mustang.
Don't you mean subtract 6" because the chain fall is now closer to the floor than the bottom of the rafters are? 9'1" - 6" = 8'7"?

Or, do you have access to the top of the rafters (which I do not). So, 9'7"?
Don't forget to take into account the suspension travel
When you lift the weight of engine(and trans) off the springs the front end comes up quite a ways, 8-10" maybe more

If using a cherry picker type lift you can just take off front tires and lower the front, lol, if lift can't clear rad support

If using a fixed lift and you need to roll the vehicle back, then you need the wheels left on, and need enough clearance/lift built-in for this
I have chained the front suspension(coil type) while weight is on them, so when engine is lifted body only comes up a bit
I was going to build floor dollies for each corner and the swap out the wheels & tires for just wheels (without tires). That'll buy me 4"-6" right there and I'll still be able to move the truck around, if necessary.
 
Don't you mean subtract 6" because the chain fall is now closer to the floor than the bottom of the rafters are? 9'1" - 6" = 8'7"?

Or, do you have access to the top of the rafters (which I do not). So, 9'7"?

I have access to the top of the rafters. 4x4 was laying on top of the rafters, and the hoist was hanging from that.

So I gained 6 inches. Plus the 4x4 helped spread the load across all the rafters instead of all at one.
 

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