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2.3L ('02-'11) Duratec 2.3 PCV Valve late '01-2011


work2do

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2009
Messages
56
City
Columbus, Oh
Vehicle Year
1999
Transmission
Manual
I know enough about the PCV valve on my 2010 2.3 . Just enough that I don't want to replace it but it has to be done. Did a fair bit of searching on the replacement procedure and it's tough to find. Appears that it's a wrestling match inside the driver side fender well that involves breaking brittle plastic/rubber parts, losing clips and making up new swear words. Removing the oil separator as an assembly almost seems most practical in dealing with a motor with 157K, 11 years old that likely has never had the PCV replaced. Pulling the intake would be the last approach I would care to take without another reason to do so. Thoughts and suggestions appreciated in advance !

Btw, Had this motor in an older Mazda Tribute, super reliable to 170k, never even gave it a thought (killed by the rust monster). Have the 2.5 version now in the wife's 2017 Escape we bought new.
 
I've done it a few times. First time is a nightmare but I can do it pretty quick now.

Remove the drivers side tire and the inner fender to get access. It will be next to impossible to get the PCV valve itself out of the separator because its held on with a clip and there's just no room to pry on it without breaking it so just remove the whole separator from the side of the block. You'll need some long extensions and a wobble (i believe the bolts are 7mm?). Wrestle the hose clamp off the valve and then you'll have the whole assembly off. When thats off you can easily pop the clip off with a pick to remove the valve.

You may end up braking the pcv hose. Its a mix of plastic elbows and rubber ends. It's a real piece of crap. But you can easily take the whole stupid thing and chuck it in the nearest river and replace it with a length 5/8" I.D. rubber hose. (This is what I did).

Replace the valve, o-ring, and separator gasket, and re-install. If you ditched the factory hose then just snake the new rubber line down and attach it to the valve and the back of the intake.

P.S. get a motorcraft PCV valve, aftermarket ones are not weighted right. I had to change mine twice the first time I did it because of this. Also, they are suppose to be done every 15,000 miles not every 150,000... :icon_rofl:
 
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Thanks, Sounds like the most painless method. Any thoughts about re-plumbing the PCV circuit to a more accessible spot ? Also, any issues with leaks/sealing the oil separator ?
 
The oil separator has a rubber o-ring style gasket you will need to replace. As long as its not cracked and you clean the block side good you shouldn't have any leaks. And besides just using rubber line to replace the plastic nonsense, there's really nothing you can do to make the setup any easier. It sucks but it works and once you do it it won't be that much of a pain the next time.
 
I've done it a few times. First time is a nightmare but I can do it pretty quick now.

Remove the drivers side tire and the inner fender to get access. It will be next to impossible to get the PCV valve itself out of the separator because its held on with a clip and there's just no room to pry on it without breaking it so just remove the whole separator from the side of the block. You'll need some long extensions and a wobble (i believe the bolts are 7mm?). Wrestle the hose clamp off the valve and then you'll have the whole assembly off. When thats off you can easily pop the clip off with a pick to remove the valve.

You may end up braking the pcv hose. Its a mix of plastic elbows and rubber ends. It's a real piece of crap. But you can easily take the whole stupid thing and chuck it in the nearest river and replace it with a length 5/8" I.D. rubber hose. (This is what I did).

Replace the valve, o-ring, and separator gasket, and re-install. If you ditched the factory hose then just snake the new rubber line down and attach it to the valve and the back of the intake.

P.S. get a motorcraft PCV valve, aftermarket ones are not weighted right. I had to change mine twice the first time I did it because of this. Also, they are suppose to be done every 15,000 miles not every 150,000... :icon_rofl:
What time frame would you estimate this job to be? I get the deal about replacing the hose and only using a Motorcraft PCV. Removing the tire and wheel well cover and jacking the car seems like it would be a majority of the job.
 
The oil separator has a rubber o-ring style gasket you will need to replace. As long as its not cracked and you clean the block side good you shouldn't have any leaks. And besides just using rubber line to replace the plastic nonsense, there's really nothing you can do to make the setup any easier. It sucks but it works and once you do it it won't be that much of a pain the next time.

Dirtman,
You indicate that you have changed out your PCV valve more than once.
What condition was the valve that you removed - was it clogged up and not functioning? :icon_confused:

BrunoTrk
2WD, '06 Ranger XLT, 2.3L, 5-spd
 

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