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Replacing Leaf Spring Bushings


Good point. I didn’t think about the taper on the top. I’ll have to look up the diameter and length on the shackle bolts and see if I can find a greasable equivalent. I had to do that for the first bolt I posted. I had found the shackles first and went looking for something for the front to match.

They have a bunch of different sizes:


I know the upper bolt on the passenger side shackle is seized to the shackle on mine. It has a date with the sawzall once I figure out how my ride height is going to play out.
 
Good point. I didn’t think about the taper on the top. I’ll have to look up the diameter and length on the shackle bolts and see if I can find a greasable equivalent. I had to do that for the first bolt I posted. I had found the shackles first and went looking for something for the front to match.

According to this all 6 bolts are the same size (for 83-97 anyway):


I did find these that are half the price of the Currie bolts... but are half an inch longer. I suspect a nonissue for everything but the top bolt, they may need trimmed for that.


I inquired about how long the threads are, I like the sound of $8 a bolt a lot better than $16 a bolt. I did notice these have drive in zerks and the Currie ones are threaded though.
 
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The front bolts on the newer Rangers are 5/8 x 4.5.

I think you may be right on the back ones.

I need to research more but I think the price difference is due to the grade (as in say grade 5 vs grade 8) of the bolt but I’m not sure on that yet.

I still have a little bit of lead time before I start tearing stuff apart to figure things out.

I agree that cutting the bolt(s) to length would be a nonissue as long as the shank isn’t too long. One could run a die to fix that issue if it is one.
 
I need to research more but I think the price difference is due to the grade (as in say grade 5 vs grade 8) of the bolt but I’m not sure on that yet.

They both say grade 8. The only ding against the cheaper ones is drive in zerks which are harder to replace... which is kind of minor.
 
Murphy’s Law says the thread in models would be better. My luck, the zirc will get snapped off at some point and being able to replace the zirc would be worth the price IMHO.
 
Murphy’s Law says the thread in models would be better. My luck, the zirc will get snapped off at some point and being able to replace the zirc would be worth the price IMHO.

You can still replace the drive ins, I sell them all the time at work. If they need replaced you just pull them out with vice grips and tap in a new one. Farm equipment is full of both styles.

If they break off you just drill them out (same as if a threaded zerk broke off) and either install a new one or tap the hole with threads and install a threaded zerk.

Breakage risk should be pretty low being on the side of the spring bolt. IMO there is probably a bigger risk of them getting stuck and not taking grease.
 
Without getting a big 14oz tube it seems hard to find a small cartridge of silicone grease for this. I don't really want to buy another big grease gun and a $30 tube of grease to give these things a squirt or two a year...

I need to check some real stores but a quick internet search isn't turning up much to be had online.
 
I've never looked for silicone grease in a tube for a grease gun. I have no idea what is out there. Everything I have is either in a tub or a pressurized can.
 
I have never had anything that needed it.

It is what the poly bushings come with and about the only kind of grease that doesn’t break down rubber
 
The bolts on every first and second gen (and first gen Explorers) I've worked on are the same size in all locations except certain ones have a tab connected to the bolt head to hold them in place on the back side. They are all metric but IIRC a 9/16 bolt is an easy replacement.
 
Home Depot has the big tube of silicone grease for $17 so that isn't too bad.

Now if they would just reply to me about the thread length on the bolts...

Since they are steel on steel it is probably a stupid thing to fuss over as far as greasing. One shackle feels like it is full of gravel and the other I have to beat back and forth with a hammer. I think it would be good to be able to flush out debris and have some form of lube in there though.
 
I think this thread jinxed my spring hanger/shackle replacement.

I have the hangers off and new ones in place... but I can't get the bolts out of the old spring bushings. The bushings themselves looked good and I didn't want to replace them. The impact just won't spin the bolts due to bushing flex. I've heated them a couple times with propane (I don't have a real torch set but that is going to change) and soaked them in PB Blaster and plan to give them another go this morning. If they don't come out... they will be burned. My new shackles came with new bushings... but they do look small. I sure hope they're the right ones.

I did this laying on my back... it sure would have been easier with the bed off. But working with no help makes bed removal difficult at best. Damn thing has fought me all the way... starting with have to cut the spare tire out. Good thing I didn't need it in an emergency.
 
I had one of those when I initially put these Explorer springs in back in 2011. It was a long and glorious battle.



 
Oh hell no... I sure hope it doesn't get that bad!
 
Oh hell no... I sure hope it doesn't get that bad!

I don't remember how the other three went but I am still using the bolts.

That one was a bugger, I would have just torched it but the fuel tank was right behind it and I wasn't that iclined to escalate the project to include the dropping of the fuel tank.
 

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