• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Why cant I buy......


My havesting equipment rarely breaks down...
IMG953480.jpg
 
That crap was there when I built the deck sir!
 
My dad always used 10w30 Castrol and Fram filters in his 87 2.9 Ranger. Then when I had I had it, I pretty much always used Castrol high mileage 10w30 and Motorcraft filters. Once, I put 5w30 in for the winter and as best as I remember, it did seem to crank over easier and the lifter tap upon start up was more noisy, but went away much faster than with 10w30.

My 07 4.0 says to use 5w20 on the cap, but I think the dealer always put in 5w30. Last oil change, I put in half a can of seafoam about 50 miles before the oil was changed.
 
We're lucky when it comes to getting Gleaner parts. We have an Allis (AGCO) dealer about 25 miles away and they stock EVERYTHING for these old contraptions.

I harped at my father to get himself a hydro combine for years and he finally picked one up a couple years ago. Now he tells everyone he wonders how he went so long running a gear drive unit. Being stuck running at a certain speed in the field definitely sucked, especially when weeds were really bad in certain fields that the sprayers had a hard time getting in to. You'd either clog the side elevators or augers up with weed seed, or you were going so slow it took you all damn day to do a tiny little field.

We both wish we would've inspected the newer Gleaner a little better before he bought it. We've had to replace and rebuild a ton of parts on it so far, but we've got it running excellent now.

Here's dad's old F model that I kept patched together for him by some small miracle.. He's glad to be rid of it. It was a high hour machine for sure. I fabbed up and replaced the grain box bottom in it, as well as the sheetmetal bottom of the bean head. Both were worn as thin as tissue paper.
10407929_10204288566867267_1277524923661550285_n.jpg




Here's his new pride and joy M2 Corn and Soybean Special before we installed his rice tires. This was minutes before we headed home with it. This is the largest machine he's ever owned and he loves it, except for the cost on some of the parts. We've got to replace the auger's hydraulic/chain driven pivot bearing system pretty soon and it's ungodly expensive. They can't be rebuilt according to a local farmer that used to be a Gleaner mechanic. Only replaced.
13654356_10209057293282447_8684716796891495374_n.jpg
 
Dad's 6600 is kind of a cream puff. Fairly low houred... but is gear drive which is why he got it cheap. It does have a variator so you can adjust speed somewhat though.



He has a lot of fun with it, they were in their heyday when he started working at JD in the mid 70's.

IIRC my dad's dad had an F2. Not sure what my mom's dad had, no cab though.
 
My dad always used 10w30 Castrol and Fram filters in his 87 2.9 Ranger. Then when I had I had it, I pretty much always used Castrol high mileage 10w30 and Motorcraft filters. Once, I put 5w30 in for the winter and as best as I remember, it did seem to crank over easier and the lifter tap upon start up was more noisy, but went away much faster than with 10w30.

My 07 4.0 says to use 5w20 on the cap, but I think the dealer always put in 5w30. Last oil change, I put in half a can of seafoam about 50 miles before the oil was changed.
The 4.0 always called for 5w30 and has never been approved for 5w20. With one exception I can think of, EcoBoost engines require 5w30 also. I suspected the engineers were willing to accept some additional wear in exchange for a miniscule mileage improvment but I've seen a lot of vehicles pass 200k using 5w20.
 
Dad's 6600 is kind of a cream puff. Fairly low houred... but is gear drive which is why he got it cheap. It does have a variator so you can adjust speed somewhat though.



He has a lot of fun with it, they were in their heyday when he started working at JD in the mid 70's.

IIRC my dad's dad had an F2. Not sure what my mom's dad had, no cab though.

We never actually farmed. But always had an old tractor around for utility.

My dads always had old N series fords. Super handy to have around and will do most general tasks pretty easy.

Unlike my 48 Farmall Cub. I really wish it was an A. Its reliable as the sun, but unless youre yanking junk around or pulling the single bottom it kinda sucks. Oddly power/pulling isnt the issue its always traction for plowing snow/pushing dirt.

Once i get a plow for my sportsman though i think the cubs gonna prrtty much stay on mower duty.
 
The 4.0 always called for 5w30 and has never been approved for 5w20. With one exception I can think of, EcoBoost engines require 5w30 also. I suspected the engineers were willing to accept some additional wear in exchange for a miniscule mileage improvment but I've seen a lot of vehicles pass 200k using 5w20.

I was just thinking about this and looked at my oil cap. You’re right, I had it backwards.
 
The 4.0 always called for 5w30 and has never been approved for 5w20. With one exception I can think of, EcoBoost engines require 5w30 also. I suspected the engineers were willing to accept some additional wear in exchange for a miniscule mileage improvment but I've seen a lot of vehicles pass 200k using 5w20.

I'm hoping you're right. I would hate to have to stock another weight of oil. Bad enough I'm going to have to get special fluid for the transmission. Probably isn't going to be cheap either.
 
5w30 will work in anything that specs 5w20 but 5w20 shouldn't be used in an engine that calls for 5w30. 5w20 is supposed to improve gas mileage, 5w30 reduces wear compared to 5w20. I never noticed a mpg loss in my 11 Escape 3.0 when I ran 5w30 in it. I wouldn't put it past the engineers to trade some additional wear for a miniscule mpg increase- Ford only warrantees the engine for 60,000 miles, if it wears out at 61k it's not their problem.
 
5w30 will work in anything that specs 5w20 but 5w20 shouldn't be used in an engine that calls for 5w30. 5w20 is supposed to improve gas mileage, 5w30 reduces wear compared to 5w20. I never noticed a mpg loss in my 11 Escape 3.0 when I ran 5w30 in it. I wouldn't put it past the engineers to trade some additional wear for a miniscule mpg increase- Ford only warrantees the engine for 60,000 miles, if it wears out at 61k it's not their problem.

Right or wrong, some may be. I know Honda has been telling their customers with older Hondas that 5W20 is what they are recommending. I never bought that line and stuck with what is listed in the owner's manual and on the cap. I'm sure 5W20 was around in 1999. Why would they recommend 5W30 then but now 5W20 is ok?
 
I got 3 words for y'all.


Sperm whale oil
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Special Events

Events TRS Was At This Year

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

Become a Supporting Member:

Or a Supporting Vendor:

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

TRS Latest Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top