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BlackBII's white ranger


And there you are, playing with three of them...
 
And there you are, playing with three of them...

Ha yeah well they all needed to be replaced anyway.

Yesterday I painted all the parts with POR15.

I am hoping to have the beams and coils back in by this weekend. :icon_welder:
 
I am hoping to have the beams and coils back in by this weekend.

That's what she said!

Love the build! Makes we want to tear into my 4x4...only it's a Colorado.
 
That's what she said!

Love the build! Makes we want to tear into my 4x4...only it's a Colorado.

A GM product? Tsk tsk. :icon_twisted:

Paint!

GIAYIiP.jpg
 
I was so close to painting the axle beams red and yellow like in the old ford commercials -- I even had the cans of paint in my hands at the store, but I just couldn't do it. Black just looks better.

L0dlHgr.jpg
 
I was so close to painting the axle beams red and yellow like in the old ford commercials -- I even had the cans of paint in my hands at the store, but I just couldn't do it. Black just looks better.

L0dlHgr.jpg

AAEAAQAAAAAAAALIAAAAJDIwNDg2M2VkLWYzMTAtNDE5OC04MWUyLTlhYzgyNGIwOWU4MA.jpg
 
I looked online for new radius arm/coil spring studs and found them for $18 a pop. Nope.

Instead we fixed the threads, glass beaded them and did a phosphate and oil bath. :icon_thumby:

Zgz3tYE.jpg


jcoXhOq.jpg


4CGwtWm.jpg


nqaQl2y.jpg
 
Details on how to do a phosphate and oil bath, please. And why?
 
Thanks. Good info but that article is lacking detail, like what is the temp to use and how to mix the chemicals. No biggy, I'll goggle it when the time comes.
 
Thanks. Good info but that article is lacking detail, like what is the temp to use and how to mix the chemicals. No biggy, I'll goggle it when the time comes.
The pictures have the details underneath them on my browser. Temp is 190-200 degrees and you mix the E-Phos with water (14oz of E-Phos to 128oz water.) After cooking them for 8-10 minutes you rinse then off in water and spray them down with oil.
 
Crossmember 2.0 -- I didn't like the fit of the other one once I torqued down the radius arm brackets so I made a new one.

mDBZ5OE.jpg


It's also time to seal the deal

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And reaming out the knuckles to fit the 1 ton tie rod ends. The reamer didn't fit in my drill so I got a good workout today.

axOET6h.jpg
 
Started working on my steering today.

That's two identical pitman arms, from a manual steering Jeep Cherokee. The sector shaft on the left is going inside the 2" DOM along with it's sintered bronze bushings to act as an idler arm. The center link will ride on the smaller bushings and 5/8" bolts.

The engine crossmember and drivers side beam drop bracket are in the way of where the idler arm needs to go so.... I started cutting up the drivers side frame rail to move the steering box forwards 5cm. This will give me enough room to mount the idler arm on the passenger side on the same plane as the steering arm. Now I know why superlift used the bushing idler arm deal instead of a regular one; there's no room on the passenger side. :icon_thumby:

y5VBO1u.jpg
 
Im looking forward to seeing he steering setup on this! Nice work
 
Me too. I think it'll work great, but the only way to know is getting it on the truck. I am hoping to get the steering box and idler arm mounted tonight; we'll see how it goes.
:icon_welder:
 

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