88 2.9L Misfireing/backfireing issue

[Mark_88]

The tech article shows how to do it but it and alludes to vehicles that used a remote location (Aerostar) so maybe Ford had them at one time...worth a call to a dealership or on-line search.

I've never done one because my 2.0 had the old style distributor because it was using a carburetor...no TFI module...

I found this link but there may be others available. This is a complete kit that you can buy and the instructions are available to download...

It is an expensive (relatively) unit but if it fixes the problem then it is easily worth the cost...if it doesn't fix it...well, at least you would have eliminated it as a possible cause.

http://www.mccullyracingmotors.com/index_files/tfikits.htm

There are others out there...maybe also check the parts for sale or post an ad for parts wanted...you can probably buy and modify a heatsink from a large computer cpu...take one of your TFI modules to a computer store and match it up...and also buy the grease from them...

I would think the wire, heatsink, and grease wouldn't set you back more than $15 plus gas and travel time...and a bit of mod work...so maybe someone who has done the mod and doesn't need the parts anymore will sell you their solution.

I would avoid thermal wrap and all that because the heat needs to be drawn away from the component and you can't really do that effectively with the location of the distributor.

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

The tech article shows how to do it but it and alludes to vehicles that used a remote location (Aerostar) so maybe Ford had them at one time...worth a call to a dealership or on-line search.

I've never done one because my 2.0 had the old style distributor because it was using a carburetor...no TFI module...

I found this link but there may be others available. This is a complete kit that you can buy and the instructions are available to download...

It is an expensive (relatively) unit but if it fixes the problem then it is easily worth the cost...if it doesn't fix it...well, at least you would have eliminated it as a possible cause.

http://www.mccullyracingmotors.com/index_files/tfikits.htm

There are others out there...maybe also check the parts for sale or post an ad for parts wanted...you can probably buy and modify a heatsink from a large computer cpu...take one of your TFI modules to a computer store and match it up...and also buy the grease from them...

I would think the wire, heatsink, and grease wouldn't set you back more than $15 plus gas and travel time...and a bit of mod work...so maybe someone who has done the mod and doesn't need the parts anymore will sell you their solution.

I would avoid thermal wrap and all that because the heat needs to be drawn away from the component and you can't really do that effectively with the location of the distributor.

Mark

I think one of my issues might be what I put on the back of the TFI. I used clear Dielectric Silicone Compound the Napa boy's told me its best. I thought the white grease looking stuff was to be used? what should I be using to keep the heat out. Maybe that is why its misfire popping getting to hot

 

[Mark_88]

The sites I've read claim Arctic Silver works as good as anything else out there.

The grease is to help prevent air pockets under the TFI because air doesn't conduct heat like the grease so you get patches of heat build up that can cause the TFI to fail.

You can read more about it here...

http://www.heatsink-guide.com/compound.htm

The remote location helps to reduce the ambient heat that the TFI would be exposed to when the engine warms up. The TFI itself probably gets warm wthrough normal function but they are designed for upwards of 300* F. The top of the engine can reach that temperature fairly quickly since the exhaust can hit 1200*...

I learned this the hard way by using paint that was not meant for heated parts...it burned off just shortly after I started the engine and before I could capture the beauty of my freshly painted manifold...

 

[bronco2fan]

Yeah, I didn't think that one thru lol. Forgot it's EFI. Sorry for that. I hope the OP figures her out though.

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

The sites I've read claim Arctic Silver works as good as anything else out there.

The grease is to help prevent air pockets under the TFI because air doesn't conduct heat like the grease so you get patches of heat build up that can cause the TFI to fail.

You can read more about it here...

http://www.heatsink-guide.com/compound.htm

The remote location helps to reduce the ambient heat that the TFI would be exposed to when the engine warms up. The TFI itself probably gets warm wthrough normal function but they are designed for upwards of 300* F. The top of the engine can reach that temperature fairly quickly since the exhaust can hit 1200*...

I learned this the hard way by using paint that was not meant for heated parts...it burned off just shortly after I started the engine and before I could capture the beauty of my freshly painted manifold...

Mark

Its cold here in the 40% I fired it up sounds good as soon as I hit the highway it starts popping as soon as it hit high gear it cleared up ran fine up the grade around town and back home. This is first time its done this maybe the Lucas Fuel System cleaner is working. This maybe a fuel injector issue? I was thinking removing that tire stem looking deal on the fuel rail clamp a hose to it put the other end into a 5 gal gas can turn the key on for a few seconds maybe clear the fuel rail and lines out?

 

[Mark_88]

Try it...but you might try pumping it into a smaller container and then straining what comes out...see if there are flakes in the fuel...that would mean they are being introduced after the filter...so the lines between the filter and the injectors would be flaking.

Just use caution doing it...I get nervous with open fuel lines and spark...

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

Try it...but you might try pumping it into a smaller container and then straining what comes out...see if there are flakes in the fuel...that would mean they are being introduced after the filter...so the lines between the filter and the injectors would be flaking.

Just use caution doing it...I get nervous with open fuel lines and spark...

Mark

The fuel looks real good nice and clear no flakes of fuel line. I did have to turn the key on and off 10+ times to get a quart of fuel to look at. I fired it up herd one pop than ran great until the same area on the highway and it popped bogged all the way home. I stopped in town with it in drive it was surging a bit and popping. I got home the exhaust smells as if it was running rich getting to much fuel. I don't know I changed all sensors other than the IAC valve it acts as if it running on 5 cylinders. This thing is getting embarrassing popping people turning there heads as if WTF is wrong with that thing

I don't know I guess mine is a special case

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

Burning blue blood


Well I got pissed fired it up tonight after sitting hours same popping issue. I pulled the TPS connector fired it up ran a few second and died. I plugged it back in fired it up popping gave some throttle popping bad. I shut it off fired it back up runs smooth no popping. I found this in the Ford Ranger forum http://www.fordrangerforum.com/archive/index.php/t-112984.html

Sounds like the same issue I am having but no response on fixing it as almost all posts. I know its not the Dist it passed smog test 4 months before and they check the timing real good. This running good than popping bogging and back to running good again I don't understand it

 

[Mark_88]

Burning blue blood


Well I got pissed fired it up tonight after sitting hours same popping issue. I pulled the TPS connector fired it up ran a few second and died. I plugged it back in fired it up popping gave some throttle popping bad. I shut it off fired it back up runs smooth no popping. I found this in the Ford Ranger forum http://www.fordrangerforum.com/archive/index.php/t-112984.html

Sounds like the same issue I am having but no response on fixing it as almost all posts. I know its not the Dist it passed smog test 4 months before and they check the timing real good. This running good than popping bogging and back to running good again I don't understand it

If it does it when cold and not running for a few hours it is not likely the TFI...unless it has to do with the wire harness.

I found this while searching on the symptoms...it's a Volvo tech page but the idea applies to FI systems...might help you figure it out...

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EnginePerformanceSymptoms.html

I read through a few of them and they are close but no cigars...

One was about poor engine ground...and I heard a bell chime when I read that...it could be a bad ground somewhere that is making sporadic contact...maybe go over the engine grounding...the starter is actually grounded to the engine too and it caused all kinds of wonky symptoms on my 96...I went out and bought a starter, tried a new wiper switch, was about to buy a new battery, when I finally swapped out all the wires to the starter circuit...cleared it right up...

Worth a second look...bad grounds can be like wonky harnesses...they just don't function right all the time...

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

If it does it when cold and not running for a few hours it is not likely the TFI...unless it has to do with the wire harness.

I found this while searching on the symptoms...it's a Volvo tech page but the idea applies to FI systems...might help you figure it out...

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EnginePerformanceSymptoms.html

I read through a few of them and they are close but no cigars...

One was about poor engine ground...and I heard a bell chime when I read that...it could be a bad ground somewhere that is making sporadic contact...maybe go over the engine grounding...the starter is actually grounded to the engine too and it caused all kinds of wonky symptoms on my 96...I went out and bought a starter, tried a new wiper switch, was about to buy a new battery, when I finally swapped out all the wires to the starter circuit...cleared it right up...

Worth a second look...bad grounds can be like wonky harnesses...they just don't function right all the time...

Mark

I checked all grounds one on the harness below the dist the one from back engine firewall to back of head. I checked all grounds on harneses round the radiator support. I found nothing loose I even added and extra ground strap from engine to firewall. The only other idea is to try this additive to remove water from fuel. When I did the fuel check I didn't notice any water in it but that was only a quart I drained out of the fuel rail. I found this the auto store in town sells think its worth a try? or do you know of a better brand to use


HEET Iso-HEET - Fuel-Line Antifreeze & Water Remover

Line: HEE | Part # 28202
30 day limited warranty
UPC: 73905282024
Universal Product
12 Fl Oz.
Volume (Oz): 12 Ounce
.

Detailed Description

Iso-HEET contains isopropanol and special additives including Fuel Injector Cleaner. When Iso-HEET is added to the fuel tank, this formula remains in the solution with the gasoline, and absorbs five times its weight in water. Any water in the gas tank mixes with the Iso-HEET, preventing the water from freezing in winter. Iso-HEET also removes water and condensation in warm, wet weather. Then the entire mixture of gasoline, Iso-HEET and water are burned during combustion inside the engine. Iso-HEET cleans fuel injectors and carburetors for fast starts and smooth running engines year round.
America's best selling Premium Fuel Line Antifreeze and Water Remover
Cleans injectors and carburetors for fast starts and smooth running engines year round
Safe and effective for all gasoline engines including 2-cycle, and all diesel engines
Prevents fuel line freeze up
Removes water and condensation in warm, wet weather
Prevents rust and corrosion
Ideal for all collector cars (25 years and older) and engines with carburetor

.

Manufacturer Information

The #1 brand of Gasline Antifreeze and water remover

 

[Mark_88]

If the problem is water in the fuel it will clean it out by bonding to the water and allowing it to pass through to be burned off...that's really all it does and as long as you are not introducing water back into the fuel it would clear up any problems.

I would say one small bottle should be sufficient to make a difference...but just keep in mind that if the vehicle fuel system does not tolerate the alcohol or reacts with things like hoses disintegrating I would say not to use it

I had put some of this into my 1988 a few times (still have three bottles of it) and it didn't blow up or destroy my fuel system...but I'd already replaced the fuel lines and everything from the tank forwards.

We call it fuel line deicer because the water can freeze in Canada and other areas where cold weather is common...however, it should not hurt your truck if you dump a bit in the tank and it helps the water find it's way out of your tank.

 

[Jimmyrig]

I would check the distributor cap. Also how old are the plug wires. My old 4.0 explorer used to eat plug wires. It would act like your describing, and would have good spark, but the spark would hop from one wire to the one next to it, especially at speed or under load. It only showed up when I popped the hood in the dark with it running. Pretty little light show if you looked close enough.

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

I would check the distributor cap. Also how old are the plug wires. My old 4.0 explorer used to eat plug wires. It would act like your describing, and would have good spark, but the spark would hop from one wire to the one next to it, especially at speed or under load. It only showed up when I popped the hood in the dark with it running. Pretty little light show if you looked close enough.

Jimmyrig

The dist cap and rotor are brand new Borg Warrner and the plug wires are new as are the Denso plugs I had Motorcraft double platinum as well. I did the dark view I see no sparks anywhere

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

If the problem is water in the fuel it will clean it out by bonding to the water and allowing it to pass through to be burned off...that's really all it does and as long as you are not introducing water back into the fuel it would clear up any problems.

I would say one small bottle should be sufficient to make a difference...but just keep in mind that if the vehicle fuel system does not tolerate the alcohol or reacts with things like hoses disintegrating I would say not to use it

I had put some of this into my 1988 a few times (still have three bottles of it) and it didn't blow up or destroy my fuel system...but I'd already replaced the fuel lines and everything from the tank forwards.

We call it fuel line deicer because the water can freeze in Canada and other areas where cold weather is common...however, it should not hurt your truck if you dump a bit in the tank and it helps the water find it's way out of your tank.

Mark

I went to town stuck a bottle in drove it around 8 miles no change still bogging popping. When its idles I hear a tick miss once I give it a quick throttle movement I hear a loud pop pop you can hear it through the intake plenum sounds like one cylinder misfireing. Its been two day's it hasn't cleared up running fine like it was doing. It can't be a lifter it reves up no power but does rev up 3500-4K once it downshifts. I checked the computer I see nothing wrong with it looks like new. I hate to spend $100+ on a re-built one and it does the same thing. So far nothing has changed it if I keep this up might blow the sick truck up but I have no choice

 

[Mark_88]

Unless you have a lot of water in your fuel I would say it is probably not the problem. I started putting a locking gas cap on my Ranger because I was certain someone was messing with my fuel...not that I piss off a lot of people but it only takes one and my last neighbor was that guy. Among other things he would toss a pile of cigarette butts on the ground around my truck...the houses were very close together and he wasn't allowed to smoke in the house so he came outside...I said something to him and he suddenly became my worst enemy...lol

When I locked my gas cap he became even more of an a-hole and finally I told his Dad what he was doing and his Dad chewed the kid out so bad...but I didn't have any more butts on the ground.

So if you've made any enemies recently you might consider someone messing with the truck...I heard that a ping pong ball in the tank can frustrate the heck out of somone trying to troubleshoot them...but the pickup on these trucks would not allow that to happen...so one good thing.

I doubt that it is your computer...I did read where that caused the problem on the other vehicle but I think they are more like an on/off switch...they either work...or they don't...but, then again, the Inertia switch was supposed to be like that too but I found out they can be wonky due to moving parts inside...the PCM does not have moving parts...just he input from sensors that would tell it how to respond...

Or a bad ground...I know you've looked at that and added a ground strap...