Clutch Safety Switch 1999 Ranger. Is it supposed to ride up and down?

[rlmc60]

I know this sounds like a very dumb question, but after replacing the CSS, It didn't work and I noticed it's actually riding up and down with the rod that is supposed to depress the springs. Seems to me this can't be right, so I put the old one back on and it does the same thing. Now I'm second guessing myself whether I have it upside down or not but that doesn't seem right, either, as it could not depress anything like that. Seems the top fits too tightly over the plastic cover on the clutch rod. Could I be missing a locking mechanism of sorts that I can't see? It is an awfully tight spot where I can't even fit both arms to get to it. No mechanic, can someone tell me what I'm doing wrong? Thanks!

rlmc

 

[rlmc60]

Well, I've got the position right, but I guess I'm missing how it locks in. The diagram shows a locking hole for the tab to go into that I don't see on my master cylinder.

 

[RonD]

Ranger won't have the locking bit on the master, F-150's do, and I believe all full-size do.

What isn't working?

The clutch switch closes when it is compressed end-wise, which happens when clutch pedal/pushrod end pushes it against the Master, the switch is compressed between the two, "a hard place and a rock" so to speak.

If Starter motor isn't activating when key is turned to START it could be clutch switch, but also could be ignition switch under the steering column.
You can check for voltage on the clutch switch wire connector when key is turned to START

 

[rlmc60]

Hmmm...obviously mine doesn't, but then how is it supposed to stay put? It cannot engage doing as it is.

 

[RonD]

This will be more like your 1999 Ranger: http://www.justanswer.com/ford/4oks1-replace-2005-ford-ranger-clutch-interlock-switch.html

It doesn't need to "stay put", a clip holds it onto the shaft(pushrod), gravity and vibration will tend to keep it against the master end, but doesn't really matter where it sits on the shaft, as long as it compresses and closes when clutch pedal is down all the way.

 

[rlmc60]

Well, it's not working, so I guess I move on to the ignition switch. Thank you, Ron!

 

[rlmc60]

No...once the rod catches after the first compression and the part is hung on it, it never compresses again. At all, because of the position it's riding in. The bottom of the CSS just barely bumps the top of the CMC. It's not engaging at all. I'm at my wit's end with this thing and ready to just bypass it altogether.

 

[RonD]

Try this push clutch pedal down to the floor, then see if you can move the switch up and down on the rod.
It should be pinched tight, if you can move it up and down the rod then something is missing, what would be missing, I don't know????

 

[rlmc60]

I missed your above question...what is it doing?...I get all dash lights, door bell, everything...but nothing when I try to crank it. Not even a click that I can hear. I can push it and pop the clutch and start it. I just changed out the ignition switch and still the same thing. New starter and solenoid. If I can get it running again, I'll leave all the new parts on it so I don't have to worry about it again. As for your last question, it's the plastic cover on push rod holding it up off of the cylinder, but it's so high that when it comes down, as I said, it just barely bumps the top of cylinder, so it's not engaging. Would there be a small metal u shaped deal that fell out, maybe? I found one but don't know where it would go.

 

[rlmc60]

No, I can't move it up and down with the clutch depressed. After the ignition switch wouldn't work, I'm out of ideas.

 

[Andy D]

Dood, it is a simple loop with a cheesy switch in it. You can jump the CSS out for "test purposes only" . I drove 4spd bugs and 3 on the tree cars and trucks for 20 yrs. Then kids came and I went to luxo barge 4wd station wagons with 727s in them. The Rat is the 1st MT I've had in 30 yrs. I jumped it out with a piece something conductive just 'cuz. Nothing I ever drove had a CSS. Having a car take off because you are so dumb you didn't know what the 3rd pedal was for only happens once The chaos of having it happen once usually is enough to learn about it.


PS the Rat starts and runs at 2k RPM and it will take right off when started in gear. I tried it once in an empty pkng lot.

 

[rlmc60]

Which two wires in the connector on a '98, though?

 

[RonD]

Have look at this thread: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1188031-clutch-safety-switch-fix-pics.html

Not sure if this is your problem, bad bushing between clutch pedal bolt and pushrod end, prevents full travel in pushrod.

But pictures are good.

If you think switch is not being compressed as much as it needs to be and bushing looks good, cut a few short pieces of rubber hose, slice them and fit them over the pushrod end(clutch pedal end) the zap strap them in place, this will, in effect shorten the travel for the clutch switch so it will get closed but shouldn't damage it since hose is flexible.

 

[rlmc60]

Not sure either, Ron, but it's as good a possibility as anything at this point. I bookmarked that page and will take a look tomorrow after work. Thanks a lot!

 

[RonD]

This is for a 1999 Ranger 4.0l but should be the same for all 1999 Rangers

Check fuse #24(7.5amp) in cab fuse box, that is only for activating starter motor.

To bypass switch splice together the White/pink stripe wire with Pink wire