05 Ranger TDI conversion

[Evguy1]

Crank pulley is about 5 5/8" and PS pulley is about 4 5/8. I'll try mounting it on there and see what we get.
I will be away next week so the outcome will have to wait.
Even when it was getting a proper signal the shifting was very harsh, snap your neck off type harsh.

 

[RonD]

If 5 5/8" pulley is spinning at 900 RPMs
Then 4 5/8" pulley should be spinning at 1,100 RPMs.

Not sure how the torque converter lockup(TCC) works, don't know what sensors it looks at, I would assume RPM, Speed and TPS but don't know

 

[Evguy1]

Got it running today with the gear on the PS pump. Software showing about 1100RPM so its changed the right direction.
Still have very hard shifts and at the wrong time.
I disconnected the TC lockup wire and it made no difference, it must be a pressure control thing?
The ECU is programed for a 3.70 rear axle and I have a 4.11 so I'm thinking this would also screw up shift points but should not have any effect on the firmness.
Throttle input ranges from about .4V to about 4.5V so its in the range but on the low side.

The sensor looks very close the the crank pulley but its not, just the angle of the pic.

 

[RonD]

Darn nice machine work

TPS is important but it is a "learned sensor" for the PCM, Ford spec is .6 to .9v with throttle plate closed, I wouldn't think the .4v would be a big deal, you can scan the PCM and if it is a big deal it will have a code for TPS voltage out of range

Also scan for transmission codes.

Yes, trans will pressure shift on its own.
5R44E did have a valve body gasket issue that caused hard shifts, I don't believe in coincidences but.........they do happen

 

[Evguy1]

Yes I have a P11230 ratchet low error.

 

[RonD]

Yes I have a P11230 ratchet low error.

Assuming P1123 TPS higher voltage than expected, which would be odd

Or P1120 Throttle Position Sensor out of range, which would fit

You could use a variable resistor connected to, what I assume is, the 4.5volt wire(input voltage), on the TDI TPS and use a couple of diodes to splice it in to the PCM wire and set the minimum voltage going to the PCM as .7volts, when actual TPS voltage goes above that it would look like normal increase to PCM.
So minimum voltage on PCM TPS return wire would be .7v.

You could probably just do that at the PCM, it does have a 5volt output pin, just add variable resistor to that wire and set it for .7volt, then a diode to prevent feed back voltage to 5volt PCM power circuit, and diode on wire to TPS, so TDI computer still only sees the .4v

The reason for .7v vs .9v is that I am thinking you want PCM to see throttle being opened a soon as possible.

 

[Evguy1]

After a few combinations of resistors (about 1.8M) I now have .8V on the TPS input according to my scanner software.
No transmission codes and it does shift much better.
Not 100% but close.
One strange thing, the speedo works but the ECU is showing 0 MPH even though it shows a good output shaft speed.
The speedo is out about 10% due to the incorrect rear axle ratio in the ECU.

 

[Evguy1]

I'm pretty pleased with it now and have started to drive it.
When I was playing around with the idea of moving the turbo actuator I had not properly readjusted it so I was getting 25lbs of boost and going into limp mode. Have that adjusted now and no more limp mode!!
It still downshifts at too high of an RPM and will spin the TDI to 4K, not over the TDI spec but not really any power up there.
The truck has 4:10 gears and lots of power off the line so I may change to 3:55 or 3:27 to see what that does.

 

[RonD]

Good work

Driving some and testing less it always a better direction

 

[Evguy1]

I used a Digital Dakota box to modify the output shaft sensor signal.
Now it shifts very nice but the speedo is out by about 2X so around town I'm doing about 70MPH.
I have another DD box to put in and bring the speedo signal back down for the dash.
Sort of an expensive way around the problem but whatever gets the job done.

I'm cleaning up loose ends and one of them is the temp gauge.
I used the VW ECU output to run the Ranger gauge along with a resistor inline to get the gauge to zero but it's not giving a very accurate reading so I'm welding a bung into the upper return pipe and will stick the stock Ford sender in.

 

[RonD]

Yes, a manual trans would definitely be a much easier swap.

 

[Evguy1]

Having a hard time with the temp sender.
Local supplier sent one out but it does not work with the gauge.
I believe the 05 temp gauge still just runs off its own sender and not through the ECU?
Need about 10Kohm at zero temp and under 1K at full scale and idiot light.

 

[RonD]

Yes there are 2 temp devices, sensor and sender on 2005 3.0l

Are you using the correct wires, sensor and sender are both 2 wire connectors now, in the old days sender used engine as ground so only had 1 wire connected.
If you Ground the 1 wire(red/white stripe) gauge should go to HOT, that tests wire and gauge, key on of course.

Did you hook up the ECT sensor?
Just curious, since computer needs that to go to closed loop, not that it matters since it isn't running anything but the trans.

 

[Evguy1]

Thanks for the schematic, it solved the one wire / two wire mystery.
Gauge reads as correct as a stock C-H gauge can read, runs mid scale under normal driving.
Welded a bung into the upper rad pipe and its all good.
https://flic.kr/p/x1YRcy

Finally confident enough to loom up the harness and tidy up the engine compartment.

 

[RonD]

Nice conversion


What you have now is truly a Ford "Fusion"

Fusion - the process or result of joining two or more things together to form a single entity.