D35 Rebuild

[jkent]

The be isnt really thick enough. You could weld on a bung, or do what I do with all my TTB pigs.

I drill a hole from rhe inside of the housing into the bottom mounting bolt hole, this way you can just drain it through the mounting hole....

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So you just drill a hole from inside right into the mounting hole...i've never thought of that I suppose i could just run a tap through the mounting hole after i've drilled the hole to clean the threads up. What size hole do you typically drill?

 

[jkent]

I always do mine like what sludge did here:

But, I cut a hole in the bottom of my beam with a hole saw, to access the drain plug with a socket, and so the oil can drain without getting all over the beam

What did you end up using for a plug? have any problems with leaking/seeping?

 

[PlumCrazy]

I use a 5/16 normally. It drains slow, but Im normally in no hurry if I'm taking the time to change it.lol

I would pop the bolt out and let it drain while I changed other fluids normally.

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[BlackBII]

What did you end up using for a plug? have any problems with leaking/seeping?

The most recent one I did I just used a flanged bolt, with a rubber washer. To prevent leaks, I use black silicone on the threads, works perfect every time.

 

[4x4junkie]

No, I bought OEM Spicer ball joints from BroncoGraveyard.

Strange... I've yet to ever have an issue with Spicer Professional Grade stuff.

What are you using now?

Edit:
Are these them?
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-82010-d35-ball-joints-oem.html


Those in the picture don't look like "Professional Grade" Spicer joints... I'll bet they're selling the cheaper "Service Grade" junk.

Spicer Professional Grade joints have gold-zinc colored bodies and bright stainless studs like below:



Obviously these were reboxed by Raybestos (also as "Professional Grade" w/same pt#s), and I believe Napa's "Premium" line is Spicer as well, so there are a couple other options available if one can't find actual "Spicer"-branded ones.

 

[brinker88]

Strange... I've yet to ever have an issue with Spicer Professional Grade stuff.

What are you using now?

Edit:
Are these them?
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-82010-d35-ball-joints-oem.html


Those in the picture don't look like "Professional Grade" Spicer joints... I'll bet they're selling the cheaper "Service Grade" junk.

Spicer Professional Grade joints have gold-zinc colored bodies and bright stainless studs like below:



Obviously these were reboxed by Raybestos (also as "Professional Grade" w/same pt#s), and I believe Napa's "Premium" line is Spicer as well, so there are a couple other options available if one can't find actual "Spicer"-branded ones.

Yup, those are the ones. I'll have to look into the Pro Grade ones. Thanks dude.

 

[bobbywalter]

I always do mine like what sludge did here:

But, I cut a hole in the bottom of my beam with a hole saw, to access the drain plug with a socket, and so the oil can drain without getting all over the beam

that the way l like to do it

Strange... I've yet to ever have an issue with Spicer Professional Grade stuff.

What are you using now?

Edit:
Are these them?
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-82010-d35-ball-joints-oem.html


Those in the picture don't look like "Professional Grade" Spicer joints... I'll bet they're selling the cheaper "Service Grade" junk.

Spicer Professional Grade joints have gold-zinc colored bodies and bright stainless studs like below:



Obviously these were reboxed by Raybestos (also as "Professional Grade" w/same pt#s), and I believe Napa's "Premium" line is Spicer as well, so there are a couple other options available if one can't find actual "Spicer"-branded ones.

not happy with moog either lately.

pro grade shit is hard to get and big bux usually. of course....usually worth the coin as well.

 

[bobbywalter]

Would I be okay just drilling a hole in the beam and then tapping it if I came up with a universal drain plug or washered bolt? I found a complete passenger side axle assembly (all 4 sections) for $63, so that way i will have some spare shafts and be able to replace my bad one. After almost 2 hours and looking through probably 20+ rangers in my local junk yard, I FINALLY found a set of thrust washers Should have all the parts to get my front axle back together this weekend and then my ranger will almost be ready for some play time Just need to bleed the brakes, try to bleed the slave cylinder, change the fluids, and a little work to the body and i will be ready to rock.

i see allot of 250 plow trucks with these at what looks like about an inch some just got regular hole plugs.

if you dont do allot of serious off road the drill and tap may be fine

 

[4x4junkie]

not happy with moog either lately.

pro grade shit is hard to get and big bux usually. of course....usually worth the coin as well.

Yup, those are the ones. I'll have to look into the Pro Grade ones. Thanks dude.

At the moment Rockauto.com lists them for $32.89 (upper), and $35.99 (lower) for Raybestos ones.

That's actually less than what a local store wanted for Moog ones a few years ago.
I would skip the "wholesaler closeout" ones RA has listed (especially given the shorter warranty)... It just seems too easy to end up with shit ball joints nowadays to chance it.

 

[bobbywalter]

thing about ra is shipping can be a problem, sometimes good joints will ship from multiple places and eat your ass up.

 

[4x4junkie]

Mine were from Rockauto... Shipping seemed quite reasonable on just the joints. It's usually when your order includes different types of parts that they start racking up your shipping charges because they don't keep the same stuff in their numerous different warehouses apparently (why so many warehouses anyway??). Like if you order plugs & wires and an A/C compressor with your ball joints for example. At least they tell you which items come from the same warehouse as an item already in your cart.

 

[BlackBII]

Yes, RA's shipping seems to add up fast.

I will usually buy my parts from Amazon. The prices are generally higher than RA's, but, I have prime with free 2 day shipping, and so it usually works out that I pay less in the end, and returns are soooo simple.