How much to mill 2.3 head?

[RidnRed]

I'd like to get the head milled on my 92' but I don't know how much to take off... I've heard .100" somewhere here, but that seems like a shizload. Also looking at a cam and injectors, are the focus injectors a good swap? suggestions appreciated. Thanks.

 

[wizkid00104]

I looked into this a while back. I got the top end off of a 97 Ranger because the heads had slightly bigger valves and slightly larger injectors. I was going to port & polish, install a cam, and install an adjustable cam pulley that was much lighter, but I never got around to it though. A few other things that could squeeze a few more ponies out of it is switching to an electric fan and switching from power steering to manual steering. Also look into a long tube header.

If you want to build your 2.3L, I recommend starting by reading the Tech Library articles on the engine.

After that, one of the biggest performance centers for the 2.3L is Racer Walsh. Take a look through their website: http://www.racerwalsh.zoovy.com/

Sorry, I don't have any experience on the milling, but 0.100" is a ton. I am thinking like 0.010".

 

[RidnRed]

Yeah .1" is a bunch. I already have an e-fan that I used in my F150, just need to get off my butt and put it in. Good info, thanks wizkid. Long tube header huh? As in aftermarket or does another year have it?

 

[wizkid00104]

Aftermarket and it may take some work to make it fit. I think your model has a shorty on it like mine does. Also look at Esslinger Engineering online. I think I saw in racer Walsh's site today that they can mill a head 0.100". But what you have to keep in mind is that milling a head that far can make a non interference head and interference head. Interference heads are fine until you break a timing belt and put the valves through the cylinder head. I believe newer VWs are known for that problem. You also have to have an idea on how much you'll increase compression by milling 0.100". Too much may make the motor unusable or fry the starter trying to turn it over.


You can make some power from a naturally aspirated 2.3L, but to make real power, you need to build a turbo model or start from the grounds up and build a race motor. Ive hear of 2.3Ls in sand rails putting out 900HP. At the cost of that, I'd look into a V8. Except with a big pocket book, there is no replacement for displacement.


Sent from my iPhone

 

[RidnRed]

Just found this http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2-3-mustangs/42300-milling-shaving-head.html one guy says he goes up to .15 off.... Maybe .1" would be goldielocks...

 

[4b316]

One thing that you want to remember is that with the head wacked that much,you will need to run a better grade of fuel.My head is cut 60 thou and I run hi test.You probably could get by cutting about 50 and run 89 octane.My friend that races with us has his head cut 140 with a adj.cam gear and he has to 99 octane in that.If you go over to 4m.net,some of those guys cut 200,way up to and in the intake bolts,turn 8500 all nite long and stay together.

 

[RidnRed]

Yeah, i sleep better at night with a non-interference motor but I saw a few guys say that you have to go around 180 for the valves to hit when your belt breaks. I'll get it measured up before I take the head in. Maybe I'll go for 50 and see what there is for a thinner gasket...

 

[zekew64]

For the aftermarket head, look into LMCTruck.com. They have an exhaust manifold on their site for the 2.3 that they claim can increase 0-60 times by 1.1 sec and 20% HP increase. However, I don't know how much that may be true.