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1988 BII Build


should hold up. only thing is it may drop a bit when you open it but i doubt it
 
No, it won't work, you need to move it to the right, or when you try to open the hatch, it will hit the tire carrier.


from the looks of the one picture of where you have the bar laying on the bumper it won't work.



Robert
 
should hold up. only thing is it may drop a bit when you open it but i doubt it

yeah i was thinking it may drop a tad too. i could sleeve the inside of the bar where the bushings will fit and that should keep it from moving too much.

i cant find any pipe that diameter though. all i've found is a piece of galvanized pipe and i dont think i can weld that. i may just try to do it without first and see if it works.



No, it won't work, you need to move it to the right, or when you try to open the hatch, it will hit the tire carrier.


from the looks of the one picture of where you have the bar laying on the bumper it won't work.



Robert

it's not set exactly where it's gonna go yet. it looks close everywhere, but there's plenty of room. there's about a half inch of clearance between the top of the bar and bottom of the tailgate. i can always use a circular saw and cut the lip off the tailgate to make more room too.
 
cant u gring the halvanized coating off? ive also heard of acid to remove it.

what about mounting it in double shear? know what i mean so itd be like |] not the best pic but im on my phone the | being the bolt
 
i guess i could grind it off, i wasnt sure if the galvanization was a coating or specific way they made the metal.

another thing i was just looking at was i could weld the lower nut and washer together, then weld the washer to the bottom of the bumper. you can grind the yellow coating off the grade 8 stuff and it welds just fine. that would be really strong and i wouldnt have to have 2 wrenches to get it on and off.

it needs to hold a lot of weight though.
 
here's the fiberglass so far, gonna fill in the back parts as well and then sand it. hopefully it'll hold and not fall out.
P1270001.jpg

P1270002.jpg
 
I took my tire rack off too. I need to fill my holes. Looks good

i still havent ground them down yet. been too busy with the bumper. i like it without though. mine always rattled too
 
got a good bit done today, it's on, but i'm not happy with it yet.

P1270008.jpg

P1270007.jpg

P1270005.jpg

P1270003.jpg

P1270010.jpg


it sits up a little too high, gonna have to trim the bottom of the tailgate i think.
P1270009.jpg


i think i need to sleeve the bushings and maybe put some grease in it. it's kinda noisy when it opens.

it also drops down just a bit, not too bad, but once a tire and highlift are on it, it'll drop even more. sleeving should help that as well.
 
and this is what i'm thinking of using to keep the thing latched
P1270001-1.jpg
 
is it dropping in the bushing or is the whole bolt moving? thats what i mean about the double shear put a plate by the head of the bolt and then back down to the bumper thatll stop it from pulling on the bolt
 
mine did rattle till I made a new bushing for it where it latches at, now it doesn't rattle.

I still think your going to have clearance problems with the tailgate once the tire hoop is welded on, that or your going to have to open the carrier past 90 degrees.

is the tire carrier part sleeved ?? if not, I would sleeve it or the edges will dig into the bushings.


Robert
 
is it dropping in the bushing or is the whole bolt moving? thats what i mean about the double shear put a plate by the head of the bolt and then back down to the bumper thatll stop it from pulling on the bolt

still not 100% sure what you mean by double shear

I still think your going to have clearance problems with the tailgate once the tire hoop is welded on, that or your going to have to open the carrier past 90 degrees.

is the tire carrier part sleeved ?? if not, I would sleeve it or the edges will dig into the bushings.


Robert

yeah, plan is to open it past 90 degrees as of right now.

the part where the bushings go isnt sleeved, that's gonna be my next step. see if it helps.


i'm gonna do a little more research, look at other bumpers and see what i can find. i have another idea of something i can do to make it work
 
doubleshear.png


like that. but you would have to shorten up the tubing on the other side of the pivot so it swings inside the brace without hitting it
 
ok i see, i thought that's what you were saying

it'll cost $5 and an hour of time to see if sleeving it helps, if not, i'll do something like that. i should've waited to plate the back side where i cut the angles.
 

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