Removing cab from chassis on a 1988 Ford Ranger.

[Ranger Don]

Hi Gang,

I am trying to do a search for step by step instructions for removing the cab on my 1988 Ford Ranger 2 wheel drive, Custom Model. All I get is gibberish.

Would someone mind stepping up and helping out, either provide me with the instructions I need, or point me in the right direction...you have no idea how appreciative I would be...Beers and dinner on me whenever your in the neighborhood.

Thanks a heap...

 

[Mark_88]

Hi Don,

I removed the cab and box from my 88 (regular cab) a few years ago and I can offer my input. Not sure if anyone has documented cab removal on this forum but you could check the tech library if you need more information.

I have to ask though...are you replacing the cab mounts? The reason I ask is because I ended up having to cut mine off and damaged the rubber (more like char broiled it) and had to replace mine at a cost of several hundred dollars because I bought OEM directly from Ford. Mistake...you can get them cheaper if you shop around...if you don't already have them.

Anyway, essentially all you have to do is remove anything attached in the engine compartment...including disconnecting the steering knuckle inside the engine bay. you don't really have to remove the fenders, hood or doors, but it makes it the cab lighter for lifting.

There are six body mounts on the cab that use either a Torx 50 or 55. They may just snap as you try to remove them but they can also be a PITA. There is usually a nut on the bolt and you will need to secure that with a wrench (can't remember what size the nut was but I think it was close to an inch). There are two at the front by the rad support, two just below the floor and accessible from the floor pan covers (just by your feet), and two at the back that are accessible behind the seat on either side.

You should remove the rad and hoses connecting if the engine is still in the bay also. once the steering knuckle, body mount bolts, and various and assorted wires and connectors are removed you can simply lift the cab off the frame.

Not sure if that helps, but it really is as simple as that.

Oh, I used a forklift to remove my cab...just ran one of those wide straps through the doors and connected to the forks and lifted...if you position the straps just above the seat headrests (or close to it) it should balance nicely enough to lift right off...but I had removed all the body panels and doors so depending on what you leave on it may be slightly forward or back for the balance point.

 

[scotts90ranger]

don't forget the cable that's between the two center seat belt bolts that goes around a frame crossmember... undo one of the seat belt latch bolts then crawl underneath and pull it out, the end of the cable is the nut for the bolt and it slides into a holder.

 

[straycat]

The best thing that you can do is get a manual for your truck, Bro.

 

[LIMA BEAN]

Also I would take a wire brush and clean off the mount bolts underneath then hit them with some penetrating oil so when they come through the nuts they dont try and drag rust and dirt through the nut and seize up. I also use an impact or you will be cranking all day and once you start to loosen them dont stop or they may lock up from the friction heat. Other than that what Mark said.

 

[adsm08]

Depending on your particular purpose for removing the cab, high explosives may be the best and fastest option.

But only if you have another cab that you want to put on. And a frame to go with it. And probably and engine and transmission, and maybe a drive shaft.

 

[rockin86ranger]

Depending on your particular purpose for removing the cab, high explosives may be the best and fastest option.

But only if you have another cab that you want to put on. And a frame to go with it. And probably and engine and transmission, and maybe a drive shaft.

+1 this is the ford approved away to remove the cab to do headgaskets on a 6.0l, or was it to remove sparkplugs from a 5.4l?

 

[bobbywalter]

don't forget the cable that's between the two center seat belt bolts that goes around a frame crossmember... undo one of the seat belt latch bolts then crawl underneath and pull it out, the end of the cable is the nut for the bolt and it slides into a holder.

not all trucks will have this, and in michigan at least the ones that do are rotted away by now in general

The best thing that you can do is get a manual for your truck, Bro.

Also I would take a wire brush and clean off the mount bolts underneath then hit them with some penetrating oil so when they come through the nuts they dont try and drag rust and dirt through the nut and seize up. I also use an impact or you will be cranking all day and once you start to loosen them dont stop or they may lock up from the friction heat. Other than that what Mark said.

depending on where you live....say in the rust belt, a sawzall or cutoff wheel/torch will be the only method of removal of the cab bolts for a truck that old

Depending on your particular purpose for removing the cab, high explosives may be the best and fastest option.

But only if you have another cab that you want to put on. And a frame to go with it. And probably and engine and transmission, and maybe a drive shaft.

seems he has rust belt experience



why are you pulling the cab??


if you have to ask how to remove a cab, i fear for your safety. depending on hoisting methodology etc it can be quite fatal. most people that can safely operate equipment to do this can easily figure out the patently obvious, as its patently obvious. or is that the gibberish your speaking of ?

what are you using to pull the cab? are you popping the bed too so you can roll out from under it? are you using a picker or an a-frame? loader/forklift type vehicle? what type of rigging? or are you getting 4 buddies and pulling it with beer as bait?

generally i pop the master off the booster and tie it off so the lines dont get jacked around and wrecked, drop the steering shaft, shift linkage etc....then the wiring.

i remove or partially remove my cab for maintenance issues every few years. pretty simple if you have a good look at it.

 

[Ranger Don]

Many thanks...Mark...and youse udder guys too

Sounds pretty easy to me, I shall give it a whirl.

The purpose of removal is to clean and repaint the chassis, and while I am at it, replace all the rusty steel brake lines. The truck looks like hell, but I have had for about 6 years now, and it has been given a new 5 speed transmission & clutch, the motor is a 2.9 FI and is still running strong.

I am toying with the idea of building a flat deck with side rails and a gate, but then I might have to redo the body work on the cab and I am not sure I want it looking that good for Mexico.

I am trying to basically rebuild the mechanicals so I can drive it down to Mexico next year.

Anywhooo, thanks again...

 

[bobbywalter]

in this case i suggest making the core support removable.


it will help later when you put the v8 in.

 

[Ranger Don]

what?

Who said anything about putting a V8 in???????

 

[Mark_88]

LOL...that's what many tend to do after playing with the 4 and 6 cylinders...I haven't done this yet either...

I guess I forgot to mention the speedometer cable and the brake cylinder...and the parking brake cable...and a few other minor details...you will know once you start to lift it that something is sticking...lol.

You seem to be doing it for the exact same reasons I did...the brake lines were shot and I wanted to clean and inspect the frame...had my frame and under the cab sand blasted before painting it though...but that didn't exactly stop the rust...when I had my shackle replaced last month the guy working on it found some crusty metal just behind the mount...it wasnt' much, but it needs attention soon...

Most of all...have fun...I had the leisure of having another vehicle to drive and took my time...like about 6 years...

 

[press 1 for english]

Depending on your particular purpose for removing the cab, high explosives may be the best and fastest option.

But only if you have another cab that you want to put on. And a frame to go with it. And probably and engine and transmission, and maybe a drive shaft.

 

[RatDog8o8]

Just jack up the radiator cap, and pull a donor vehicle under it.

 

[adsm08]

+1 this is the ford approved away to remove the cab to do headgaskets on a 6.0l, or was it to remove sparkplugs from a 5.4l?

No, that's the way to do head gaskets, turbo, and exhaust plumbing on the 6.4 and the exhaust manifolds on the 5.4.

Slide hammer is the approved tool for 5.4 3 valve spark plugs. The old 2 valve 5.4s don't need a tool or a procedure to remove the plugs. They come out on their own with normal driving.



If you are already doing brake lines, then go ahead and take them off at the master cylinder. If you don't want to have to bleed the brakes you can unbolt the MC from the booster and leave it with the chassis.