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Killed my ranger last night (Modified V-8/Supercharged) Any input?


Check your cam synchronizer. Just wondering... the cam you put in it - is it a roller cam? I don't recall what the gear on the cam synchronizer. Hopefully steel.
if its a roller cam you need a bronze gear on the synch
 
if its a roller cam you need a bronze gear on the synch

Steel or composite gears are recommended on hydraulic roller cams. Steel gears are factory on the HO 5.0 Mustang.

EDIT: Mostly you don't want cast iron.
 
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Bronze gears wear too fast usually. It's a roller cam XE264HR-14 and he has the factory synchro in it.
Dave of the Nord
 
Double checked fuses and relays last night, checked the Diode as well (Truck has one for RABS, one for ECU so I could switch them to test) My horn relay was brand new, so I kicked that one to the ECU spot as well... Still no spark...

Bought a scanner, but since I had tried a different ECU after the failure originally I have no codes since the ECU was unpowered when trying the other one...............

The trans-lock wouldn't even let the truck crank, so its not that, which leaves the crank sensor, or something buried in the wiring that's shorted/burnt since there is still no spark...

one of the few on this board?
same thing. is the cps working ?? valves moving cam spinning?
chains break, gear bolts shear etc....

There are only like 3 OBD2 v-8 swapped guys on here (The 4X4 Centrifugal charged one, and the other 4X4 one in the technical section, and my own), most are OBD1 5.0 Mustang swaps or carbed setups.

Dead CPS wouldn't cause a no-start/no-spark condition. Truck will switch to limp mode if its dead and use the crank sensor to guess. If the crank sensor is dead, it will cause a no-start/no-spark.

Engine cranks as smooth as ever, if the chain broke I'd expect some pretty horrid noises from the front of the engine.

CPS and the spindle are both less than a year old, and are OEM for a 01 Explorer.

Check your cam synchronizer. Just wondering... the cam you put in it - is it a roller cam? I don't recall what the gear on the cam synchronizer. Hopefully steel.

Gear is Steel IIRC, Cam is roller lifter affair.

Oh a more amusing/happy note, here is my Photo of the day from my trip to Navy Pier yesterday:

LikeaBoss.jpg
 
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Dan,
you are forgeting Hoosier1104 is running the Explorer motor and I think a couple more. Get them videos of Bryon?
Dave of the Nord
 
Dan,
you are forgeting Hoosier1104 is running the Explorer motor and I think a couple more. Get them videos of Bryon?
Dave of the Nord

I was so upset that I couldn't even reply to your email...

if I had gone, I would have won the "Fastest 'Wishes he had a mustang' Trophy" a 14.4 pass in a Raptor took it............

Forgot about Hoosier.
 
Steel or composite gears are recommended on hydraulic roller cams. Steel gears are factory on the HO 5.0 Mustang.

EDIT: Mostly you don't want cast iron.

Comp cams tells me to run a bronze or composite gear on a roller cam, i have personally installed hundreds of them and none have worn badly (95% are in racing applications) :dunno:
 
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Shane, That's a very interesting read! Seems like the big difference is in what steel is used as the cam blank. Seems like the street Comp Cams use the steel gear, you would think if otherwise they would mention it in their detailed description.
Dave of the Nord
 
The Syncro Spindle has less than 10K miles on it, and again, even with no signal, the truck should still have spark/limp mode.
 
The Syncro Spindle has less than 10K miles on it, and again, even with no signal, the truck should still have spark/limp mode.

Sorry Dan, didn't mean to jack your thread.

It seems like you've pretty much eliminated all of our guesses. I would start checking grounds in your main harness. I forget, did you get a tune done?

BTW, I didn't know the ECU would switch over to the crank sensor if the cam synchronizer failed. That's useful info, thanks!
 
Sorry Dan, didn't mean to jack your thread.

It seems like you've pretty much eliminated all of our guesses. I would start checking grounds in your main harness. I forget, did you get a tune done?

BTW, I didn't know the ECU would switch over to the crank sensor if the cam synchronizer failed. That's useful info, thanks!

I only know because the CPS in my 97 explorer got reinstalled wrong at one point so I had to drive around with it unplugged. It was NOT happy, and took like a dozen tries to start, but she still started :icon_thumby:

I appreciate all the input guys! I don't mean to shoot anything down if I come off that way!

I pulled the entire engine harness out of the truck last night, its now on my living room floor... Going to switch to my 2001 harness finally.

I was out on my newest Sniper tune (that I made essentially, I keep calling them ghetto tunes) when it died the other week. the A:F was a SPEC on the lean side (12.5-12.7), but otherwise it pulled like an absolute raped ape all the way to 6K, 8PSI Solid the whole way.... That's why this is all so upsetting, she is becoming wicked fast and then this happened.
 
I get that a lot. Something about being a sleeper. :icon_hornsup:
Truck of the month and a great write-up on your swap and he forgets about you?
Dave of the Nord
 

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