My B2 FW SAS

[1985Ranger124]

Im doing around the same sas. I got a 77 Ford F100. Dana 44 Front and Ford 9 inch rear. On the front i wanted to know how you did the coil buckets. Did you have to move them out at all for the full size axles. How do you know what angle to do the track bar. Im 15 and trying to build this basically all by myself and selling most of my stuff to do an sas so any advice you have would be very helpfull

 

[59bisquik]

I used Duff coil buckets from an early Bronco. I spaced the passenger side bucket off the frame 2" by using 2x4 square tubing. I first bolted it on and then welded it once everything was right. They are an inch forward from stock and mounted flush with the bottom of the frame. On the driver side, I used 2x2 square tubing towards the rear and then used diagonal gussets in the front of the bucket.

As for the trac bar, I would first get the steering linkage setup and keep the truck centered with ratchet straps or something similar. Once you have the steering the way you want it, then match its angle and length with the steering linkage. The trac bar should be the same angle as the steering and ideally the same length as the steering linkage from the pitman arm to where it attaches to the knuckle or center link.

If you use stock steering, you are stuck with the steering being installed under the knuckles. If you use hiems you can mount it on top of the knuckles for extra ground clearance and a better steering angle. Ultimately, you want the steering and trac bar to be as horizontal as possible.

Here is a pic of my setup

 

[1985Ranger124]

kk Thank You, What exactly are your axles out of. I dont know if the F150 axles and the full size bronco axles are the same width. And how much did it cost you to do you solid front axle swap not including your wheels and tires.

 

[59bisquik]

The front is a 79 F150 D44 and the rear is a 89 F150 8.8.

As for cost, this is what I remember...
D44 axle complete from wrecking yard $400
Duff buckets $100 new from a board member
Ballistic Fab Steering kit $300
Wild Horses 5.5 EB springs $160
Lockrite $270
4.88 gears and install kit $325
Crazy long 2" .250 wall extended radius arms $200 from board member
Yukon lifetime warranty chromo axles $400
JE Reel Cryo U-Joints $175
Fox Reservoir Shocks $300
I dont remember the costs of the misc stuff like wheel bearings, brake rotors, brake lines etc. Just thinking about the big ticket items.

As for the rear,
Complete 8.8 from wrecking yard $250
Swapped over gears, carrier, cover, R&P from explorer 8.8 $free
Fox Shocks $300
Misc bearings, seals, brake shoes...unknown.

Hope this helps some!

 

[crazywhiteboy]

The front is a 79 F150 D44 and the rear is a 89 F150 8.8.

As for cost, this is what I remember...
D44 axle complete from wrecking yard $400
Duff buckets $100 new from a board member
Ballistic Fab Steering kit $300
Wild Horses 5.5 EB springs $160
Lockrite $270
4.88 gears and install kit $325
Crazy long 2" .250 wall extended radius arms $200 from board member
Yukon lifetime warranty chromo axles $400
JE Reel Cryo U-Joints $175
Fox Reservoir Shocks $300
I dont remember the costs of the misc stuff like wheel bearings, brake rotors, brake lines etc. Just thinking about the big ticket items.

As for the rear,
Complete 8.8 from wrecking yard $250
Swapped over gears, carrier, cover, R&P from explorer 8.8 $free
Fox Shocks $300
Misc bearings, seals, brake shoes...unknown.

Hope this helps some!

hows that lockrite treating you? mine didnt last long at all. literally got no more than a half a day outta it.

 

[1985Ranger124]

Thanks for all the help, will probably have more questions but for niw u think im good

 

[59bisquik]

85Ranger... Thats ok...keep the questions coming!

Crazywhiteboy... It hasnt missed a beat since I installed it a few years ago. However, I have noticed that it is more spool like than a locker!

 

[88_Eddie]

59, didnt you have an EX 8.8 in there at one time? couldnt you have swapped the disc brake stuff over to on the FW 8.8?

 

[1985Ranger124]

Ok, I thought of another one. I have a 3 inch body lift right now. It cant come off cause its metal and welded to the frame. I like the way yours sits and would like to have around the same look but on 36's. Whats your advice on what coils to run.

 

[59bisquik]

88 Eddie.... The FW 8.8 is a 5x5.5 bolt pattern versus the 5x4.5 pattern. I dont know if it was easy as redrilling or not. The 1/2 ton drums seem to work better than the exp discs.

85Ranger... I run no body lift at all. You could use the 3.5" lift coils instead or you could stick with the 5.5 coils and just move the buckets up. That would give you a longer spring for a better ride and more droop.

 

[The Jester Race]

hows that lockrite treating you? mine didnt last long at all. literally got no more than a half a day outta it.

Did you use a hardened cross pin?

Crazywhiteboy... It hasnt missed a beat since I installed it a few years ago. However, I have noticed that it is more spool like than a locker!

I noticed that too with mine.

-Jester

 

[crazywhiteboy]

Did you use a hardened cross pin?


-Jester

stock cross pin..but that wasnt what the problem was. all the teeth on the lockrite rounded and skipped when one tire was bound up. i was stuck in a pretty deep rut and as soon as i applied power it started popping and skipping. so i opened the diff, saw all the rounded teeth, pulled out my millermatic, welded it all together!!! i didnt think it would last too long on 38s, but really a half day??? lol sorry about threadjacking!!!

 

[1985Ranger124]

ok so how do i know how far to move the coil buckets up or down and how do I know how its going sit once i put all of the weight back on it.

 

[59bisquik]

Thats why I bolted mine first! But I am about an inch forward and the buckets are even with the bottom og the frame.

 

[1985Ranger124]

ok, sounds good