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Hard to start after DuraSpark


SR185

SR185

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2010
Messages
85
City
Mobile, Alabama
Vehicle Year
1984
Transmission
Automatic
My engine seems to run fine now that I've done the DuraSpark, but it is difficult to crank (hot or cold).

Before DuraSpark, the engine started easily, but ran poorly. Now, I have to pump the gas, and keep the accelerator pedal floored to get it to crank.

What problems should I be looking for?
 
I set the timing right on 10 degrees.

I might have a vacuum leak on the EGR plate I made, so I just took it off and reinstalled it with a good coating of Permatex high-temp, gasket maker.
 
what carb did u use? im about to go pick up my parts and do the duraspark tonight. i hope i can do my metering block without taking the carb off, i cant find any carb gaskets that wont take me 3 days to get
 
are you pressing the gas pedal before you start it hot mine almost floods when I do. Cold I just need to push it 1/4 to 1/2 way down just far enought to close the choke. Did you put a new EGR gasket with the plate. If you have a vacuum guage turn the Idle air screws out two turns start the motor and then adjust them one at a time for the highest vacuum or rpm then adjust the curb idle to the rpm you want. do that a couple times until it stays at the idle speed you want then check them turn them in to lightly seated counting the turns in then back out they shoud be within 1/2 a turn. you should have between 17-20hg and steady at an idle. Vacuum leaks around the carb base was my biggest problem finally fixed it by sanding the base flat with a piece of sandpaper glued to a flat piece of plywood beang real careful it stays flat and getting it to scratch it evenly it dont take much and snug it down evenly but dont over tighten it. Your close
 
I just bought a roll of gasket material and made a new one every time I pulled the carb until I got it right.
 
I made a gasket for the EGR and the carb spacer with a roll of gasket material. They came out perfect, but I might need to snug the carb nuts a little more.

I do have a vacuum gauge that I'm using to adjust the mixture screws on the 2150. I suspect I'm having a vacuum leak because the gauge isn't fluctuating very much when I turn the screws. About the only thing I see on the gauge is needle movement when I've turned the screws enough each way to make the engine stumble.
 
Take a piece of vacuum hose about 3 feet long and put one end up to your ear and search all the gaskets and vacuum fittings you will hear a hissing noise when you get close. Your timing should be around 20 btdc with the advance connected to manifold vacuum on the tree. The nipple on the back of the egr spacer that goes to the vapor cannister is easy to miss I just plugged mine and pull a vacuum from the tree to it using a restrictor in line so it dont affect vacuum pressure but pulls the vapor out of the tank and float bowl. What is the highest vacuum you can achieve at an idle my idle jets are about 3 1/2 to 4 turns out.
 
A steady low vacuum is most likely a leak somewhere. Check around the base of the carb if the ears are bent down a little it will never seal until you surface it flat. Probably why it dont adjust properly on the idle air.
 
One other thing I forgot to mention, is that the engine doesn't fire until I stop turning the key. Or, in other words, until the key returns to the run position.
 
SR185 said:
One other thing I forgot to mention, is that the engine doesn't fire until I stop turning the key. Or, in other words, until the key returns to the run position.
Click to expand...

Your start circuit is not correct when the key is in the start position it turns the power to the coil off how did you wire the coil and module. If you plugged the module red and white wire connector to the whit red on the harness that is correct. For the coil did you use the key on power wire from the 8 wire connector by the coil use the power wire that used to run the computer red/ltgrn wire to the coil from the harness. That is your hard start issue
 
My module is wired exactly like the diagram red to white and white to red, and I'm using the harness for this connection.

I'm using the cylinder shaped coil with a resister that came with the Painless wiring harness.

The wire I'm connected to from the 8-wire plug is colored red with orange stripes. Here's a picture of my 8-wire plug. Maybe I'm color blind, but none look red with light green to me.


Wiring002.jpg
[/IMG]
 
Last edited:
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