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Just installed a switch for amp...


BOL

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2009
Messages
173
City
chino valley Az
Vehicle Year
1991
Transmission
Manual
My father in law is convinced that my amp is draining the battery even when truck is off. So today I installed a toggle switch between the amp and the fuse box. The power goes from the battery straight to the amp but since I installed the switch it doesn't work. I am trying to get it so I can turn the switch off so that even with the key off there is no drainage. Should I have a fuse on there too other than the one on the amp itself? Should I rewire it straight to the battery?
 
IF anything I’d parallel relays, the number of which depending on how big of an amp you have.
But first I’d check to make sure the remote turn on wire turns off when you turn off the radio/ truck
 
one: there is no drainage of your battery, that's why you have remote wires.

but you can test this with a multimeter, by turning the car off, pos to the ground of your amp, and neg to your grounding cable, and it should read "0" cause no current is running thur.

if you wanted to do it any way, which i dont recommend, (creates a bottle neck/week point), use a very high rated relay, you prolly have to get one from a electric golf cart store, or weilding shop. and warning, some of there ratings are max/momentary, not continuous. i say use a relay so you dont have high amps in your cab of your truck.

if you want to put a switch in your engine compartment: go to a boat store, and look for heavy duty bat switches, :icon_thumby:
 
it is a 300 watt amp and no I did not get a heavy duty switch. Just a dinky 10 amp switch
 
I would forget the whole switch idea and just leave the amp unhooked for a few days. If the battery still drains, you know the amp isn't causing it and just hook it up the way you had it before without any switches.

If it is draining the battery, leave the power wire alone and put the switch on the remote turn-on lead. You can use the dinkiest switch you want and it won't matter.

If it STILL drains the battery, there's something wrong with your amp. Get a new one.
 
Exbass, has the best solution. Easier to unhook the amp then it is to start wiring a switch in...
 
but you can test this with a multimeter, by turning the car off, pos to the ground of your amp, and neg to your grounding cable, and it should read "0" cause no current is running thur.

Even if the amp was on, the meter would still read zero because there is no voltage drop between either end of the cable. To measure current, you would have to unhook the ground cable from the amp first, then put the multimeter between the amp and ground cable.
 
Even if the amp was on, the meter would still read zero because there is no voltage drop between either end of the cable. To measure current, you would have to unhook the ground cable from the amp first, then put the multimeter between the amp and ground cable.

Do you know how to test cruuent with a mutimeter? Cause how 4x4 said is the right way if your not afraid to blow the meter.
 
Last edited:
Yes, I know how to test current. Perhaps I didn't understand 4x4 correctly, and maybe he's saying the same thing I am, but the way to test current is the way I described. You must unhook the ground from the amp, connect the positive lead of the meter to the neg terminal on the amp, and connect the negative lead of the meter to the ground cable or other good chassis ground.
 
That's one way, the other is you pull the fuse and hook up that way; it does not matter if you are on the live or ground side, you’ll get the same reading. Unless you have a clamp on meter which IMO is the best way to do it.
 
Oh yeah that would be easier....why didn't I think of that? :icon_confused: :dunno:
 
You must unhook the ground from the amp, connect the positive lead of the meter to the neg terminal on the amp, and connect the negative lead of the meter to the ground cable or other good chassis ground.


turning the car off, pos to the ground of your amp, and neg to your grounding cable, and it should read "0" cause no current is running thur.
:icon_idea:

any way, i second not touching it all and x2 on the some thing wrong with your amp if it is drawing on the bat, when the truck is off
 
Rule number one, if you have to ask if you need to fuse a power wire, take it to a professional, period.
You have three power wires, one is 12 volts positive, goes to battery with a fuse less than 12 inches from the battery, no exceptions. You have one that is 12 volts ground or negative, this goes to chassis ground, this needs to be less than 24 inches in length, no exceptions. Grounding point should be a good solid bare metal connection. The last wire is 12 volts turn on, this wire should go straight to the radio and be connected to the amplifier turn on/power antenna wire from the radio, NO EXCEPTIONS. If you are using the factory radio, locate the power antenna wire, most radios have them and connect amp turn on to this. If it does not have amp turn on, locate the ignition wire in the radio harness at the radio and connect here with a fuse
SVT
 
ur remote wire that is the 12v wire from amp to headunit is the purpose of wat you need.
 

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