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A4LD doesn't... move? When cold..?


koda6966

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 28, 2007
Messages
7,898
City
The green part of NY.
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Automatic
Well, I'm still in the dark about what could be wrong with my little Ranger. When I go to leave on cold mornings (even after 5-10 minutes of running the engine) it just stops and doesn't go anywhere.

Any ideas?

Eventually it kicks in and moves, but it takes around 30 seconds to a minute.

God I hope I don't need a new transmission. >.<
 
Well, I'm still in the dark about what could be wrong with my little Ranger. When I go to leave on cold mornings (even after 5-10 minutes of running the engine) it just stops and doesn't go anywhere.

Any ideas?

Eventually it kicks in and moves, but it takes around 30 seconds to a minute.

God I hope I don't need a new transmission. >.<

I had a similar problem when i first rebuilt my truck.

Well, first make sure you have the proper amount of transmission fluid.
After that, I suggest changing the transmission filter. The reason I say that is because if you break a thrust washer it will end up down there. Or at least it did when mine broke. If there is a thrust washer, or part of a thrust washer in there you need to have it rebuilt.

It sounds also like it may be your torque converter is going bad.

Those are the things that I was told to look for when my transmission was acting like that. might be worth looking at.
 
Hmm.. my brother changed his Trans filter on his ranger and the Transmission went to hell right after wards. Something about little particles in the fluid getting disturbed and tearing the inside up.
 
I had this same problem on very cold mornings. this went on for years before my trans finally went out. I was never sure exactly what caused it but I am fairly certain that it was not the cause of my transmission failure later on.
 
Hmm.. my brother changed his Trans filter on his ranger and the Transmission went to hell right after wards. Something about little particles in the fluid getting disturbed and tearing the inside up.

I don't believe this at all. Doing just a pan drop and changing the filter will not stir anything up at all. You just drop the pan, and the old fluid that's sitting in the pan will spill out. Doesn't affect anything in the rest of the tranny. The filter is right there on the bottom too. Just unbolt it, and stick a new one on. Once again, there's no way to stir anything up.

FWIW, my A4LD went about 75k miles without any maintenance (had a pan drop and refill at around 60k and then nothing till 135k) and then I had it flushed at 135k. That was over a year ago, and it still shifts beautifully and works like brand new. Regularly changing tranny fluid is the only way to make an A4LD last a long time.
 
Someone recomended a Vacuum Modulator change.

If this could be what's wrong with it then I would be VERY happy. 10 dollar fix.

Think this is it? It seems to make sence because it controlls the throttle and shifting and whatnot. What do you think?
 
Someone recomended a Vacuum Modulator change.

If this could be what's wrong with it then I would be VERY happy. 10 dollar fix.

Think this is it? It seems to make sence because it controlls the throttle and shifting and whatnot. What do you think?

No. A bad mod valve defaults to high line pressure and late hard shifts. Doesn't have anything to do with engagement problems.

You're basicly having engagement problems due to either low line pressure or a massive internal leak from worn seals. I don't beleive in "mechanic in a can " solutions but you can ( no pun intended ) try a bottle of your favorite trans seal conditioner. Other than that, need to overhaul it.
 
No. A bad mod valve defaults to high line pressure and late hard shifts. Doesn't have anything to do with engagement problems.
You're basicly having engagement problems due to either low line pressure or a massive internal leak from worn seals. I don't beleive in "mechanic in a can " solutions but you can ( no pun intended ) try a bottle of your favorite trans seal conditioner. Other than that, need to overhaul it.

Hmm.. this is confusing.

thats it, when it goes bad it sucks the trans fluid and puts it into the engine, but in the begining it just slips the trans so it wont go into drive or anything. only problem is its a bitch to get to without a body lift. its above passenger side cat. u can jack the body off the frame a little or take the cat off, or try to work around it, its only held in by one bolt but its a bitch to get to.
That guy, and a Master Mechanic neighbor say otherwise.

The Vacuum Modulator monitors engine vacuum by a rubber vacuum hose which is connected to the engine. Engine vacuum reacts very accurately to engine load with high vacuum produced when the engine is under light load and diminishing down to zero vacuum when the engine is under a heavy load. The modulator is attached to the outside of the transmission case and has a shaft which passes through the case and attaches to the throttle valve in the valve body. When an engine is under a light load or no load, high vacuum acts on the modulator which moves the throttle valve in one direction to allow the transmission to shift early and soft. As the engine load increases, vacuum is diminished which moves the valve in the other direction causing the transmission to shift later and more firmly.
This is what a website says about the Modulator. :dntknw:
 
No. A bad mod valve defaults to high line pressure and late hard shifts. Doesn't have anything to do with engagement problems.

You're basicly having engagement problems due to either low line pressure or a massive internal leak from worn seals. I don't beleive in "mechanic in a can " solutions but you can ( no pun intended ) try a bottle of your favorite trans seal conditioner. Other than that, need to overhaul it.

mine wouldnt go into gear in the mornings, i changed the modulator and i havent had a single problem since.
 
Let me clear it up a bit. A bad modulator can cause a HARSH engagement if bad ( because it will jack up line pressure ). A bad mod valve can leak and the engine will suck ATF into the intake manifold. It can suck enough ATF out of the trans so that the trans will slip BUT the mod valve does NOT cause a NO or DELAYED engagement, low ATF BECAUSE of the leak will.

Don't believe me ?? Try this, take a hand held vac pump and apply 30" of vacuum to the modulator valve. Go put the trans in gear and see what happens.
 
Hmm.. so basically this wont work?

*Is sad now*

Oh well.. looks like I'm gonna be stuck borrowing the minivan for a while.

Maybe I'll start harassing McDonald's via phone every week from now on. AKA Calling to "ask" if they're hiring yet, AKA making sure they know my name.
 
:icon_confused:

Is this true, or is someone pulling my leg? Or is someone pulling my leg and it's false?



If its a 93 it will have a modulator...if its a 95 and up it will not have a modulator the pressure is electrical controlled buy the computer through what is called an EPC (electric pressure controlled).
 

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