The R2 lever I got with the trans was about 1.5" thick for about as long as the Ranger lever needs to be. That combined with the fact that at least part of it has a plastic insert inside (I suppose for noise/vibration dampening and I have no idea how far up in there it goes) makes it hard to cut it down and/or reshape it to fit in a Ranger.
And no matter what I intend to make the chrome FX4 levers work.
I thought about grinding the flats and I might yet, the angle is going to be touchy though because if you are off a little bit your shifter is way over there now. If I had access to the table grinders we had in college it be sweet. I know a guy with a mill, I was going to have him take a look at it when I get to that point.
I am not going to modify anything until I get the trans in the truck in case I do need to tweak things from the stock angle. After I get the trans in I am doing the D35 swap so it will be a dead horse for awhile anyway until that and the driveshafts are done.
Until Mac got me pointed in the right direction (that the wedge bolt orientation can vary) I found little to nothing about how a R1 lever interacts with a R2 trans and if the stub shafts can be swapped which is why I am documenting it on here for the next guy.
Ranger lever is nice and short and goes straight back:
Here you can see the odd angle for the R2 lever too, it kicks it over farther to the drivers side since in a F-150 the drivers seat is farther to the left from the transmission. I am pretty sure it would take more work to make this one fit than a Ranger lever.
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