1988 Wipers -- 1996 Wiring -=-

Mark_88 · Oct 5, 2015

So...I finally got around to wiring the wiper motor...anyone familiar with this will know that the 88 had 4 wires under the hood to the wiper motor and two to the windshield washer pump.

The 1996 Ranger (3rd gens 93-97) has six wires to the wiper motor and 2 to the windshield washer pump...

I dragged my feet as much as I could because I could not remove the 96 wiper motor and fit it into the 88 cab...it might work with a bit of massaging of linkages and all that...but anyone who has ever worked in that cowl space knows it's a contortionists job...not anyone with a 14" or longer forearm...

So...I finally got hold of the wiring diagrams for both years and...glory be! They are almost the same...except the two extra wires on the 3rd gens are grounds.

So...without having any clue as to what ground went into the red/white/blue/black cluster from the 88 I simply grabbed one and connected it up and put the other two to body ground...

It was only a few 30 amp fuses (at 65¢ a pop) before I realized that I had to go buy more fuses and disconnect that black wire...so I did...and tried one of the other two that were grounded...

:yahoo:

Now the wipers work...

A side note...those washer pumps...they can be removed and swapped into any number of washer fluid containers...the ones with the -| type connectors that is...the older 88 and previous bottles I could not figure out how to remove the pump without destroying the container...

I will get some pics and post them up later...

Mark_88 · Oct 5, 2015

Some pictures for anyone interested...the wiring pic shows the two clips joined into the 88 motor...it's not finished exactly as I need to wrap and cover the wire connections...left it open to show wire connections.

bobbywalter · Oct 6, 2015

oh yeah.....dealt with this situation too many times over the years...

1990RangerinSK · Dec 13, 2017

Sorry to bring back an old thread, but I'm hoping to replace my washer pump soon (it doesn't work, doesn't squirt my windshield). Searching for relevant threads I found this one.

Do I read correctly that the pump can be removed from the reservoir, so that I only have to replace the pump? How does it come out without destroying the reservoir?

Thanks!

Curious Hound · Dec 14, 2017

It just kinda snaps in there. Mine just has 2 screws holding the whole reservoir into the fender. Just pull the whole reservoir and it will be easy to work on. Once you unplug the wires, you can get a screw driver in and carefully pry the pump out. The pump inlet snaps into a grommet in the tank.

You should be able to get one pretty cheap at the junk yard.

Eric B

Mark_88 · Dec 14, 2017

Yes, like Eric said...just pops in. The early pumps had a two prong plug with the prongs connecting in parallel like any electrical wall plug and socket. The newer pumps have the connector shaped like indicated in the original post -| so all you need to do to get those to work is to splice in the connector for the pump.

If you find one in the junkyard that has a different plug just cut the plug wire and you can splice in any two wire connector to run any plug. Including bottles from other makes as long as they take the same voltage and use two wires.

1990RangerinSK · Dec 14, 2017

Thanks. That seems simple enough, as long as the pump is actually the problem. There are only two wires to the pump, so testing should be simple enough. Just a volt meter hooked into the plug, and hit the switch. If there's power, it's the pump. If, on the other hand, there's no power, then the fun begins.

It's either the pump, the fuse, or the switch. Am I missing anything?

Mark_88 · Dec 15, 2017

No, that's exactly how I figured out it was my pump and not the switch or the fuse. If you hit the switch and your DVM or whatever you are using shows power then it is the pump.

I've found broken wires and corroded connections on my 88 that I didn't realize were there and ended up replacing the entire harness from the firewall to the starter solenoid...and then down to the starter.

Corrosion is your biggest enemy in older Rangers...copper can and does corrode and it can fall to pieces inside otherwise unbroken wire sheaths.

So good place to start is just test the power to the plug...

Curious Hound · Dec 15, 2017

automotive wiring is so..... "fun". :icon_twisted:

1990RangerinSK · Dec 15, 2017

I'm really hoping that this is an easy fix. Just the pump, I think I can manage. If it turns out to be more than the pump, then I think I'm in a little bit over my head. Might be time to find somebody who has an Explorer that they'll trade me (or a 4x4 Ranger).

Mark_88 · Dec 15, 2017

The wiring isn't actually very hard to figure out and tracing takes a bit of time but not like it's rocket science. There isn't much to that system and it is either the switch, the fuse or the pump...if not trace it back to a connector if there is anything in between there.

If it goes straight back to the Power Distribution box that may be easier to test because you just need to find the wires coming out of that and check them to make sure they are connected,. You can also use pin probes to test them anywhere in the wire to see if the power stops somewhere.

But, again, test the pump connector for power first before trading it in on an Explorer...which are pretty good vehicles but they all have something that needs fixing sooner or later...don't give up...

1988 Wipers -- 1996 Wiring -=-

Mark_88

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Mark_88

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bobbywalter

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1990RangerinSK

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Curious Hound

Formerly EricBphoto

Mark_88

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1990RangerinSK

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Mark_88

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Curious Hound

Formerly EricBphoto

1990RangerinSK

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Mark_88

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