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tsi617
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2013
- Messages
- 83
- Vehicle Year
- 1983
- Transmission
- Automatic
Difficulty 2 /10
Time 45 mins
I have a v8 swapped ranger and a after market gauge pack. If you use this thread then realize that you may need a 73-10 ohm sender. Sender swap was made on a 1983 108wb truck.
First get your supplies ready:
5 - 10-32 screws
5 - #8 washers
1 - 10-32 nut
1 - backing plate (got mine at tanksinc.com)
1 - neoprene gasket
1 - cork gasket
1 - sender, I used a 240-30 autometer
1 - 3/16 drill bit
1 - 1 1/2 inch hole saw
- A jig saw with a metal blade
- a drill
- a shop vac
-phillip bit screwdriver
Survey the tank where you want to put the new sender. I chose the back of the tank. Then I put down the backing ring and sprayed a coat of yellow paint to use as a template for drilling.
Now take the 1 1/2 hole saw and punch it through the center. Then drill out the 5 holes for the screw. Then take the jig saw and notch the hole just enough for the sender block to drop in the hole and vacuum the inside and outside of the tank. If you drill while the vacuum is next to the bit it will help with the shavings.
Measure the depth and if needed draw a template. My tank was 11 inches so I put my sender length at 5.5. Then I cut the float rod and installed it on the sender.
Drop the backing ring followed by the neoprene gasket in the tank using one bolt to hold up in through a hole. This will act as a stud. Then instal the gasket followed by the sender.
Snug every thing down and reinstall the tank if you removed it from the truck. (Not necessaryas I changed tanks and sdumped mine)
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
Time 45 mins
I have a v8 swapped ranger and a after market gauge pack. If you use this thread then realize that you may need a 73-10 ohm sender. Sender swap was made on a 1983 108wb truck.
First get your supplies ready:
5 - 10-32 screws
5 - #8 washers
1 - 10-32 nut
1 - backing plate (got mine at tanksinc.com)
1 - neoprene gasket
1 - cork gasket
1 - sender, I used a 240-30 autometer
1 - 3/16 drill bit
1 - 1 1/2 inch hole saw
- A jig saw with a metal blade
- a drill
- a shop vac
-phillip bit screwdriver
Survey the tank where you want to put the new sender. I chose the back of the tank. Then I put down the backing ring and sprayed a coat of yellow paint to use as a template for drilling.
Now take the 1 1/2 hole saw and punch it through the center. Then drill out the 5 holes for the screw. Then take the jig saw and notch the hole just enough for the sender block to drop in the hole and vacuum the inside and outside of the tank. If you drill while the vacuum is next to the bit it will help with the shavings.
Measure the depth and if needed draw a template. My tank was 11 inches so I put my sender length at 5.5. Then I cut the float rod and installed it on the sender.
Drop the backing ring followed by the neoprene gasket in the tank using one bolt to hold up in through a hole. This will act as a stud. Then instal the gasket followed by the sender.
Snug every thing down and reinstall the tank if you removed it from the truck. (Not necessaryas I changed tanks and sdumped mine)
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
