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Trucked stopped moving


lumbee

Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2009
Messages
17
Vehicle Year
1995
Transmission
Manual
OTW home from work last night when my truck stopped pulling when i was in 2nd gear. I can put truck into any gear with no resistance and it will not move. I replace the clutch master cylinder today but that did not help at all. Is it the clutch?? I need to fix truck this weekend thanks.
 
Well it sure wouldn't have been the master cylinder. The hydraulics RELEASE the clutch, they have nothing to do with making it grab.

I would say it is probably the clutch if it has been slipping, but if it just stopped moving out of nowhere, then you probably have a transmission issue. Either way, time to take the trans out.
 
I've never noticed it slipping but has been a pita to shift into gears for the last about 4 mo i just figured it was the clutch. I replaced the master cylinder because the clutch had fallen down about 3in which the master cylinder had now fixed. There is still pressure when i push down the clutch should this still be?
 
Also truck will not stall if i put it into any gear and let off the clutch.
 
There are three discs to a clutch. There is the flywheel which is like a brake rotor, it provides a hard surface to grab to. The clutch itself is in the middle and is kinda like brake pads. It gets squeezed on by the pressure plate which has spring loaded fingers that pull back on another hard surface inside that does the squeezing of the clutch. If the pressure plate is intact and the hydraulics are ok you will get pressure at the pedal. When the truck won't go it is the middle friction disc that is worn out, usually.

Go take your transmission out.
 
OK appreciate it. Any tips to dropping the transmission?? This will be my first time taking a transmission out of anything.
 
Run to harbor freight and drop the money on the tilt-table trans jack. It's worth it.
 
Run to harbor freight and drop the money on the tilt-table trans jack. It's worth it.

Ain't that the truth! Having removed the trans on my '99 5 times now within a year and a half, I have never done it once without one.
It's a fairly simple job though remove the driveshaft, starter, cross member, then bell housing bolts and slide 'er out. There are many other threads and write-ups here and out in the interwebz that are a nice guide, and even have pictures!! (M5OD Ranger Removal)
 
getting hard to shift was your first sign of the clutch going bad, the disc gets thin and starts to stick to the flywheel or pressure plate causeing drag witch in turn makes for hard shifting in some cases you have to shut the engine off to get it in first gear from a dead stop, then restart the engine to go, you more than likely you lost the friction sufaces on the disc making for no go, replace every thing while your in there
 
So i dropped the transmission today took about 5hrs 2 of those figuring out how to get the top two bolts out what a pita lol :icon_idea:. But looks to me like the slave cylinder is the main issue but will be replacing both the clutch and slave while i am at it.. also how can i check the transmission to make sure its OK?? There was quite alot of metal shavings on the drain plug.. Thanks






 
The only way to bench test the trans would be to shift the lever into each gear while spinning the input shaft and watching the rotations of the output shaft. That clutch disk looks pretty used though. Scares me that mine looked worse than that when I pulled her out not too long ago. Also make sure that oil leak doesn't get on the clutch assembly in the future. That will cause your same problem. The only way I get the top bellhousing bolts out are with about 3' of extensions :yahoo:

But replacing the clutch pressure plate and slave cylinder are a good idea. Since you'e in there just do everything.
 
OK thanks yea i haven't been able to find the oil leak. Ive tightened the oil pan but no luck.
 
Check the tightness of the bolts around the valve cover up there at the top. A leaking oil pan would not usually throw oil way up to the top of the engine
 
Update..... I got the clutch/Slave installed and everything is working OK... I did have the transmission checked out and they said the bearings are going bad and will eventually go out.. I do not have the money for the repairs at the moment so i put everything back together and attempted to bleed the slave cylinder but i am not sure if i did it correctly because when shifting it isn't smooth and takes a little force to switch gears.. I think i still have air in the line i have bench bleed the master cylinder before installed it so i think its the slave. How should the sc be bleed.
 
How should the sc be bleed.

Just like a normal brake system. pump the pedal fast a bunch of times, hold it to the floor and have someone open the bleeder on above the quick disconnect. when the fluid stops close the bleeder and repeat till no more air and you have a good pedal. Keep a constant eye on the reservoir, it drains quiiick!

I still have problems with mine from day to day, its not bad enough where it effective to try and mess with it again. If you can't get it into first in traffic one day, try pumping the pedal really quick a bunch of times. If the clutch acts normal then, then that's a great indication you have air in the system but you usually can make it home if you do that a few times
 

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