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Ford black death???


TrexMex

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2007
Messages
405
Age
48
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
I'm replacing engines in my '94 and also doing an A/C overhaul while I'm at it... Took the orifice tube out and this is what I found....

IMG-20131117-00076(1).jpg

I am replacing lines, accumulator, compressor and orifice tube. If this indeed is the dreaded black death, my condenser is serpentine type, can I get away with flushing it? What about my evap?

thanks!!!!
 
You should be able to flush it. To flush out condensers I usually pour the solvent in them until it comes out the other side and then blow it out with compressed air.

Same can be done with the evap core.
 
be sure that your condenser is indeed serpentine. On my 97, the driver side looks like it is serpentine, but the passenger side shows that it is parallel. basically two tubes on the passenger side and a bunch of "u" shape tubes going horizontal from it. with that much gunk, if it is not truly serpentine, I would change it out.

if it is serpentine, you will probably need to flush it several times to get all of the crud out of it. definitely do the evap core as well, and if it is not serpentine, I would suggest replacing it too.

Good luck!

AJ
 
be sure that your condenser is indeed serpentine. On my 97, the driver side looks like it is serpentine, but the passenger side shows that it is parallel. basically two tubes on the passenger side and a bunch of "u" shape tubes going horizontal from it. with that much gunk, if it is not truly serpentine, I would change it out.

if it is serpentine, you will probably need to flush it several times to get all of the crud out of it. definitely do the evap core as well, and if it is not serpentine, I would suggest replacing it too.

Good luck!

AJ

Thanks, thats exactly what I have for a condenser.. serpentine on one side and tubes going into a manifold on the other. I just assumed that was serpentine...

I have invested so much into this overhaul that I am thinking on biting the bullet on those extra 200 bucks for a new condenser/evap (you know, get it right the firs time ... ) Don't want to put it all together to have a compressor blowing up on me after 2 months... Still undecided, though


Great article, I find that "pulsating technology" rather interesting.
 
So the time has come to put everything back in the AC system. The sticker with AC capacities is long gone so I could use a little help on gas and oil capacityfor the system. Also, where should I be putting the oil? I have been reading about priming the compressor and then putting some oil in the condenser and evap as well but nothing conclusive.

thanks!
 
My 97 took 25 ounces of r134a. I think 94s took 28 ounces. I found a site that listed capacities. I have them listed on my a/c writeup. One thing to look at is 94 is a transition year, some have r12 and some have r134a.

Put 8 ounces of oil in the system. Take 4 ounces and put it in the new compressor. You will need to turn the compressor to get all the oil in. Then stand the compressor on the pulley to make sure that the front seal gets oiled.

Put 2ounces in the condenser and the rest in the accumulator/ dryer.

Then pull a vacuum for about an hour. You will now be ready to charge the system

AJ

sent from my Kindle Fire instead of enriching myself by reading a book
 
My write up is linked a few posts down under "resurrecting your a/c" it is tailored to the 97 but has stuff for other years too.

AJ

sent from my Kindle Fire instead of enriching myself by reading a book
 
Ford manual is available at http://arrc.ebscohost.com (login with id/pwd = tech/tech).

It reads....

Section 12-03A: Air Conditioning System, Manual A/C-Heater, Aerostar
1994 All Aerostar Vehicles Workshop Manual

[snip]
Installation

Transfer the old A/C compressor clutch to the new A/C compressor.

NOTE: If installing a new A/C compressor, lubricate with 30 ml (one fluid ounce) of clean compressor oil, and fill to system capacity. If installing a compressor after repairing for leaks, add the same amount of oil that was removed from the old compressor. If that amount is 90 ml (three ounces) or less, add an additional two ounces.

Remove the A/C compressor bolts and stud from the power steering pump and A/C compressor bracket.

Remove the A/C compressor from the power steering pump and A/C compressor bracket.

NOTE: When replacing an A/C compressor (19703) use original manifold bolt from removed A/C compressor to attach A/C manifold and tube to new A/C compressor. DO NOT USE THE SHIPPING CAP BOLTS.
Position A/C compressor in the power steering pump and A/C compressor bracket.

Install the A/C compressor bolts and stud. Tighten the A/C compressor bolts and stud to 21.2-28.8 Nm (15.6-21 lb-ft).

Install power steering hose bracket on A/C compressor stud. Tighten power steering hose bracket nut to 7.6-10.4 Nm (67-92 lb-in).

Install electrical connector to A/C clutch (2884).

Install drive belt.

Install the power steering oil reservoir bolts. Tighten the power steering oil reservoir bolts to 7.6-10.4 Nm (67-92 lb-in).

Install A/C manifold and tube. Refer to the procedure in this section.

Charge the A/C system. For additional information, refer to Section 12-00.

Operate A/C system to determine if A/C system is operating properly.


[rest is snipped]



In Section 12-00: Climate Control System, Service

1994 All Aerostar, Ranger and Explorer Vehicles Workshop Manual
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Adding Refrigerant Oil


R-134a A/C System

The R-134a A/C system FS-10 compressor uses a unique high-quality refrigerant oil (F2AZ-19577-AA), Motorcraft Part Number YN-12 or an equivalent refrigerant oil meeting Ford specification WSH-M1C231-B. An oil charge of 207 ml (7 oz) is used in a new system. It is extremely important that only the specified type and quantity of refrigerant oil be used in the FS-10 compressor. If there is a surplus of oil in the system, it will circulate with the refrigerant, reducing the cooling capacity of the system. Using too little oil or oil not meeting the Ford specification will result in poor lubrication of the compressor.

When replacing a component of the refrigerant system, the procedures in this section must be followed to make sure that the total oil charge in the system is correct after the new part is installed.

When the compressor is operated, oil gradually leaves the compressor and is circulated through the system with the refrigerant. Eventually, a balanced condition is reached in which a certain amount of oil is retained in the compressor and a certain amount is continually circulated. If a component of the system is removed after the system has been operated, some oil will go with it. To maintain the original total oil charge add oil as required to the new replacement part.

The procedures for replacing oil are as follows:


During Compressor Replacement


NOTE: FS-10 compressors shipped as service replacements MAY or MAY NOT contain oil.

NOTE: The suction accumulator-drier and orifice tube should also be replaced when the compressor is replaced.

Prior to installing the replacement compressor, drain the refrigerant oil from the removed compressor into a clean calibrated measuring device.

To drain the oil, place the disk and hub assembly on the old compressor shaft so the shaft can be rotated.

Rotate the shaft by hand six to eight revolutions, while pouring the oil from ports. This effectively empties the compressor of oil.

Record the amount of oil removed from the old compressor.

If the new FS-10 compressor contains oil, drain the refrigerant oil from the new compressor following the procedure in step 1 above.

If the new FS-10 compressor has NO OIL, then the oil draining step will not be necessary.

Matching Oil Quantities

If the amount of oil drained from the old compressor (step 2) is between 85 and 142 ml (3 and 5 oz.), pour the same amount of clean YN-12 refrigerant oil into the NEW compressor.

If the amount of oil drained from the old compressor (step 2) is greater than 142 ml (5 oz.), pour 142 ml (5 oz.) of clean YN-12 refrigerant oil into the NEW compressor.

If the amount of oil drained from the oil compressor (step 2) is less than 85 ml (3 oz.), pour 85 ml (3 oz.) of clean YN-12 refrigerant oil into the new compressor.

NOTE: Replacement of the suction accumulator/drier is not required when repairing the air conditioning system except when there is physical evidence of system contamination from a failed A/C compressor or damage to the suction accumulator/drier.



During Component Replacement

When replacing other components of the air conditioning system, measured quantities of the specified refrigerant oil should be added to the component to make sure that the total charge in the system is correct before the system is operated.

Clean refrigerant oil should be poured directly into the replacement components as follows:

A/C evaporator core (19860): add 90 ml (3 oz).
A/C condenser core (19712): add 30 ml (1 oz).
Accumulator: drain oil from removed accumulator/drier. Add same amount plug 60 ml (2 oz) of clean refrigerant oil to new accumulator.

If any other component such as an A/C evaporator core orifice (19D990) or a hose is replaced, no additional refrigerant oil is necessary unless a hose bursts with a fully charged system. Then, the addition of refrigerant oil may be necessary with the amount to be determined by the technician. The suction accumulator-drier should also be replaced under these circumstances.

[snip]
 
The Ford manual does not list actual R-134a capacity. Instead, it says look at vehicle sticker! WTF?

This capacity chart to which 97RangerXLT referred does NOT match my '97 vehicle sticker, which I found rather suspicious,
so I would not trust it:

RANGER (columns are: refrigerant, ounces, oil-type, oil-ounces)
1995-97 All Engines R134a 22.00 PAG 46 7.00
....1994 All Engines R134a 36.00 PAG 46 7.00
 
Yeah my sticker said 25 oz. I went with that. It also had an oddball value for 94..36 oz which sounds correct if you have the r12 system but not for r134a.

AJ

sent from my Kindle Fire instead of enriching myself by reading a book
 
Well I put in a full charge yesterday and got the a/c temp down to 40F. Not without a good story, of course...

SO here I am weighting the 35 oz bottle to make sure I only put in 25-28 Oz in the system and looking at the compressor clutch cycle like nuts (normal, right?) when a neighbor walks in and tells me "hey, what's this thing over the battery?) turned out it was oil... I was so focused on the low pressure gauge that wasn't noticing my high pressure connection was leaking :annoyed:.. Not a big leak but I'm sure a good ounce of oil got lost. I didn't want to lose a good charge of oil so I disconnected the high pressure gauge, put in an ounce of oil through the low pressure port (it's sold mixed with one once of R134a so the pressure in the can does the job of charging your system) and went by pressure and air temp... I'm sure I am around the desired charge, and can't do nothing but double check once the 120F summer comes in so, in the meantime I have another story accumulated on my rebuild lol... thanks everyone for your help!!
 
Glad you got it up and running good. yeah the compressor will quick cycle when it is low on refrigerant. as you get closer to the full load, it will run longer before it shuts off. When I did my Ranger, it quick cycled like nuts and as I was finishing up my second 12 ounce can it started running quite a long time before it kicked off, then it kicked right back on again.

40* is a great temp to be at the vents. Enjoy the nice cool ride when you get it all rebuilt and back on the road again. (and post pics :))

AJ
 
Glad you got it up and running good. yeah the compressor will quick cycle when it is low on refrigerant. as you get closer to the full load, it will run longer before it shuts off. When I did my Ranger, it quick cycled like nuts and as I was finishing up my second 12 ounce can it started running quite a long time before it kicked off, then it kicked right back on again.

40* is a great temp to be at the vents. Enjoy the nice cool ride when you get it all rebuilt and back on the road again. (and post pics :))

AJ

Thanks for all your help! Now I am fighting over a pesky oil leak on the front of my engine that sure looks like a lower intake manifold leak. Now I am following your OTHER great write-up :icon_thumby:

I'll definitely post pics once I'm finally done with all the details and tweaks I'm going over
 

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