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Problems starting


Doctormario777

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Active
Joined
Feb 1, 2013
Messages
77
Vehicle Year
1983
Transmission
Manual
Hi, not really sure if this belongs in the V6 section or in an electrical section, so I appologize if the thread winds up needing to be moved.

So I was having some trouble getting my truck started a few weeks ago and I wound up getting stuck in a parking lot, unable to get the truck started. I wound up having a mechanic tow me in and take a look at the truck. They wound up replacing some components in the distributor and the wiring harness that plugs into the side of the distributor. It wound up costing me $300. Knowing that I got taken for a ride, I'd really rather not take my truck back there... for $300 I could have just bought an all new distributor and ignition coil... but that's the past now!

Anyway, the truck was starting well for a few days and now it's starting again. The truck tends not to start, and definitely won't start if I'm not holding down the clutch and the gas. I can get it to start just fine with a little starter fluid sprayed into the carb. It's really difficult to diagnose what's wrong because the symptoms are so inconsistent. Sometimes it will start, sometimes it won't. Sometimes if it starts and I turn it off it will start up no problem, sometimes it's impossible to get it to start again.

I've also got a fairly substantial oil leak. I'm not positive where it's from yet, but it's pretty bad. It only leaks while running. The only reason I mention it is maybe the two problems are related, but I'm not sure. I'm going to get some UV dye and see if I can't find the leak later today. I have a hunch that it's the valve cover or intake manifold since it seems to be coming from the top. Then again, it could be the distributor, but it was leaking before they dinked around with the distributor at the shop, so who knows.
 
Is this the 1983 2.8l ?
Is the carb getting fuel ? when it dont start pull a plug and see if it is wet, if wet see if it burns with a lighter. Take the top off the air filter and look if the choke is fully closed take something big enough to hold the choke open and not fall down in the carb and try and start it. Do not pump the pedal push it half way down once and try and start it cold.Put a spark plug in the coil wire and set it on a good ground and crank on the starter it should have a brite blue crisp snap. Check compression engine cold three times and post the numbers. It could be alot of things start with the basics
compression it needs to be within 10% between high and low numbers
spark use a spark gap tester it must jump a gap of at least 7/16 inch gap
fuel be careful when disconnecting the fuel line it will fill the glass jar pretty quick if the engine starts if the pump is good. post results
 
It is the 2.8.
I didn't have much time to troubleshoot, but I took the air filter off. The choke is about halfway open, like you'd expect. I tried to start it without starter fluid, eventually I got it on like the 3rd try while holding the pedal to the floor. Shut it off, waited a few seconds, set it to run, waited a few seconds, started it and after doing that a few times, eventually I could get it to start without holding the pedal down. I used starter fluid after starting it a few times and I don't really think it changed much. I wonder if the idle mixture adjustment screws could be wrong? I've got them out a decent amount (3 turns as opposed to the 1.5) because that's the only way I can get it to idle well.
 
Don't know if this is going to be related or not, but I took the ranger for a spin around the block and she wound up dying on me. I thought it was odd, so I pulled over, sprayed some starter fluid in and tried again. She kicked over and started to run but cut off. I did this a couple more times then noticed a nice big puddle of gas under her. I pushed it to a nearby parking lot and wound up walking home (Oh boy... this could have been way worse but its hard not to have a shitty evening with all this).

I haven't gotten under it. It was dark and I was wearing nice clothes. But based off of the fact that it didn't drip any more fuel once I stopped trying to start it, I'd say that the fuel pump seems to be the likely candidate. I'm pretty certain I know where it is on the truck, but if any of you happen to have a picture of yours, I'd appreciate seeing it so that I know exactly what I'm looking for tomorrow afternoon.

Also, opinions are welcomed as far as potential other causes/problems.
 
Is this the 1983 2.8l ?
Is the carb getting fuel ? when it dont start pull a plug and see if it is wet, if wet see if it burns with a lighter. Take the top off the air filter and look if the choke is fully closed take something big enough to hold the choke open and not fall down in the carb and try and start it. Do not pump the pedal push it half way down once and try and start it cold.Put a spark plug in the coil wire and set it on a good ground and crank on the starter it should have a brite blue crisp snap. Check compression engine cold three times and post the numbers. It could be alot of things start with the basics
compression it needs to be within 10% between high and low numbers
spark use a spark gap tester it must jump a gap of at least 7/16 inch gap
fuel be careful when disconnecting the fuel line it will fill the glass jar pretty quick if the engine starts if the pump is good. post results

The fuel pump is good. I actually had to replace one of the lines today and I added in an inline filter.

Shouldn't the choke plate be closed when it's being started? What would it indicate if the choke plate wasn't?

I don't understand how it could be a problem with spark if the engine runs fine after being started. Wouldn't it be misfiring if the plugs weren't getting spark?

It get's to where if I start it, get the engine warm, turn it off, wait about 30 seconds, move the key on, but not to start, wait 10 seconds, then turn it over it will fire right up.
 
sounds like the carb is dumping fuel if you have to put your foot in to it or your timing is off needing the advance to get it to run check your choke
 
Carbureted motor that needs to be held to floor when cranking to start. Most likely engine is flooding intermittently. Float sticking or bad or piece of garbage stuck in float valve. Sounds like you need to clean and diagnose the carb problem.

A quick check for this (sometimes) is to open the choke all the way and then open the throttle plate all the way and look down the carb with a flashlight to see if it is puddling fuel in the manifold. Do this with the engine NOT running of course and the best time to check it is about a half hour after you shut it off. Like I said this diagnosis works sometimes.
 
Carbureted motor that needs to be held to floor when cranking to start. Most likely engine is flooding intermittently. Float sticking or bad or piece of garbage stuck in float valve. Sounds like you need to clean and diagnose the carb problem.

A quick check for this (sometimes) is to open the choke all the way and then open the throttle plate all the way and look down the carb with a flashlight to see if it is puddling fuel in the manifold. Do this with the engine NOT running of course and the best time to check it is about a half hour after you shut it off. Like I said this diagnosis works sometimes.

My intake manifold leaks oil pretty badly. Could this be causing the problems?
 

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