Rusty frames

stan · Jan 21, 2013

First off, I did a search (for the last 1/2 hour) and found little on this subject. I found one thread where people mainly argued about whether a frame could or should even be welded on and then how to do it.

My question is after finding some rust-through on my '83 frame between the rear shocks and the leaf spring bracket, what are my options? Weld/dont' weld or patch the hole? Scrap the truck -or at least the frame? Other options?

It's an old 2.0 4X4 with around 190,000 miles, but has been a good truck for the last year or so. I have other rust issues, but those are sheet metal and not structual.

I know it might be hard to give advice without seeing the truck (and I don't have pictures), but I'm here to listen to what people with this kind of experience might suggest to me.

Your input is greatly appreciated!

Stan

Andy D · Jan 21, 2013

I used a piece of fuel oil tank and bent it over a piece of channel iron with clamps and hammers, I formed a 30 " fish plate to support where the rotted out web that the LF cab support was riveted to. It was L shaped with a bend for the kick in the frame. I unbolted front end stuff and fitted the piece to the frame holes where ever possible. I replaced the the rivets with 3/8 hardware. I also used them to join the plate to the frame aft of damage site. I dont have a welder and I left the tank in . It was a slow job . I did it before I tackled the clutch. I was a shipfitter in a previous career,so hammering steel into place isnt scary to me. It was slow going. but the truck is doing fine a year later.

alwaysFlOoReD · Jan 21, 2013

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136045
Post #9
Good luck,

Richard

wizkid00104 · Jan 21, 2013

http://www.rangerframefix.com/

I actually just talked to Dan, the owner of this company. I ordered the wrong crossmember for my frame and he cleared up it all up. If you have questions, I'd suggest putting an email inquiry in to him on his website. He's a great guy and very helpful! My name is Jeremy if he was wondering how ou got directed to his stuff.

Mac · Jan 21, 2013

I was checking something else out in the shop manual in the frame section and ran across the same warning about welding on the frame, un-aware of it. At least for the 2000 they said it is heat treated and welding destroys the strength. Might be great as a short term solution or could last for years.
Dave

PanamaExpat · Jan 21, 2013

Considering the frames are already as flimsy as rolling papers I wouldn't want to weld on one anyhow. The way I weld I would blow a hole the size of Texas in it.

Have you ever lifted the rear end of a Ranger frame off the ground with a chain hoist and then seen for yourself how much flex they have without the body on them? You would understand my cigarette paper analogy if you had.

By the way I copied that frame info from the link to my build folder. Some really good info in there. Thanks a31ford.

ZMan · Jan 21, 2013

Heres how we fixed one at work a while back...

It was pretty rusty, bumper had nowhere to mount, and you can see how bad the spare tire carrier was..

The cuts were made between the mounting points for the spare tire carrier, notice how the cuts aren't just straight, but made so it will fit together like a puzzle.

New section trimmed and ready to go on.

Clamped on ready to weld.

That is the way I-car says to section a frame. That was well over a year ago, the truck hasn't been back so I imagine its just fine. I've also patched rust holes in frames without any problems, I say go for it, you will have no issues welding on your frame.

alwaysFlOoReD · Jan 22, 2013

I found a pdf file for extending frames on a ford site for aftermarket body builders. It includes spec for sectioning, supporting, and welding on frames.
Hope it helps someone,

Richard

DRanger024 · Jan 22, 2013

If the frame is cooled properly after welding it will not lose its strength. Cool it slowly and it should be just fine. Cool it too quickly and it will become extremely brittle being that its heat treated. The first 15 minutes after welding are the most critical as the material is still shrinking from the expansion of the welding process. Use a higher grade of US made steel for the repair and CLEAN ALL RUST OFF BEFORE WELDING. I know you can weld through a rusty cow pie with a stick welder but that doesn't mean you should. Proper material prep is key here. I think the ideal welding process would either be SMAW or TIG. MIG is fine but most people do not set the machine up properly and end up with a cold, poorly fused weld that may look pretty but is weaker than he'll when it comes down to it. On top of that wire is expensive and you should find the proper electrode/filler material to aid in the quality of the repair. Just my .02

stan · Jan 23, 2013

Great suggestions and caveats. I will probably either try using plates and bolts (if the area isn't too big) or take it to a shop as my welding skills might not be good enough for this.

I can't believe as old as some of these trucks are getting that a bad/rusty frame thread hasn't been seen before...!

thanks again.

PanamaExpat · Jan 23, 2013

Rust issues have been discussed before... Did you do a good search?

adsm08 · Jan 23, 2013

It has come up before. The general consensus is that it is hard to to repair them properly. Around here you have to have a professional do it for it to even be street legal anyway.

Rusty frames

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