Another Vulcan Oil Pan Gasket Thread

Hi all. I'm new to the forum so please be kind.

I have a 2000 Ranger 2wd coil spring flex fuel V6 that I bought recently. It's racked up 130k miles. I recently discovered it has the herniated oil pan gasket syndrome. I've done a lot of investigation on the web and see a classic tastes great/less filling argument regarding how to change out the pan gasket.

There are many posts about pulling the engine as a easier alternative to pulling the pan with the engine still in the truck. I see the logic in that but it's a lot of work too and has some risk on busting stuff in the process. Also, I don't see any easy way to unbolt and move the AC compressor out of the way without disturbing the lines. I don't have easy access to freon recovery and recharge equipment.

So before going nuclear and pulling the engine, I want to dig into the in car procedure.

In looking at it all the pan screws are accessible. Most of the pan sits behind the cross-member. There is certainly a clearance issue with the cross-member. I understand the need to jack up the engine to get clearance and there is a lot of on line discussion regarding unbolting the oil pump and dropping it into the pan.

The service manual starts with "remove flywheel or flex plate" but doesn't say anything about the oil pump. So the question is, is dropping the oil pump a work around for pulling the trans and flex plate or do I need to do both?

Next, choosing a replacement gasket. Any advantage to a particular brand? I see both Ford and some aftermarket brands have improved this gasket over time. I've read Ford TSB 03-5-3 and it recommends P/N 2U7Z-6710-AA. Is there a newer revision to the Ford part and procedure?

What about using just straight RTV? Has anyone tried that?

Sorry for the long post, any help is appreciated.

- Pete

LBPete said:

The service manual starts with "remove flywheel or flex plate" but doesn't say anything about the oil pump. So the question is, is dropping the oil pump a work around for pulling the trans and flex plate or do I need to do both?

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The dropping of the oil pump is so you can get the oil pan itself out, I'm guessing. There is nothing connecting the trans and flex plate to the oil pump, it's just that the pickup for the oil pump extends so far into the pan that it's hard to get clearance to get the pan out of there.

Next, choosing a replacement gasket. Any advantage to a particular brand? I see both Ford and some aftermarket brands have improved this gasket over time. I've read Ford TSB 03-5-3 and it recommends P/N 2U7Z-6710-AA. Is there a newer revision to the Ford part and procedure?

What about using just straight RTV? Has anyone tried that?

Click to expand...

Felpro part OS30717R is the "new" design and comes with the new pan bolts, only $35 at Rock Auto. I used this one last year and haven't had any leaks.

And using straight RTV is a pretty bad idea if you're balking at the work it's going to take you to get at the oil pan. Do it right the first time.

Thanks for the tip on the FelPro gasket. As far as the RTV comment, Lots of OEMs use only RTV for gaskets. Like any good flat rate mechanic, I'm looking for shortcuts. There are some really good products out there. I'm actually surprised Ford doesn't use it and was wondering if anyone had tried it here.

I understand why the pump needs to come off. The pick up screen passes through the windage tray in the pan. That will really limit movement to get clearance. The question is does the flywheel/flex plate really have to come off too? from what I'm piecing together, removing the oil pump is a workaround for not removing the flex plate. If it needs to come off too, that would tip the scale towards pulling the engine.

- Pete

I did mine in truck. Did not pull the oil pump. Unbolted the motor mounts and lifted the motor about 4 to 6 inches. The pan slid out, but I had to rotate the pan about 90 degrees while sliding it out. Now one other thing I had in my favor, the transmission was out of the truck on a bench while I was rebuilding it. Your mileage may vary if the transmission is still in the way. (the Y pipe was also out of the truck as well.)

Lots of OEMs use RTV, but ford doesn't, so I wouldn't put RTV back on it. If you really are hell bent on using the stuff (which I find more inconvenient than a simple gasket sometimes) then use this stuff. Click Me. It comes in a caulk like tube and its also sold in cans that work like cheese in a can. You just press the top and it flows out. Works excellent on differentials. And it doesn't need any time to cure. I've always just cleaned the surfaces, applied a good coating of this, reassembled and filled with gear oil instantly.

Thanks for the replies. tx3nc you may have answered the question. The Ford service manual says to remove the transmission and flywheel/flex plate as the first step. In your case they were already off so if you had the engine high enough, you could remove the pan. So others that mention removing the oil pump probably either didn't have the flywheel off or didn't get the engine high enough.

As far as the RTV, I've used the aerosol cans. There are a couple of issues with using it. First you have to control the amount so you don't get sealant stringers that can get sucked up by the pump and forced into the oil galleries. I've seen that stuff block orifices and cut off oil flow to the top end. I've also seen it block drain holes and cause pressure build up that can force seals out of position. Too much sealant can cause real problems.

The next issue is the design of the mating surface between the tin pan and the flat flange of the block. Pans designed for RTV usually have some sort of channel for the RTV to squeeze into when the pan is installed and tightened. I'm not sure it would seal properly with out it. I was hoping someone had tried and either succeeded or failed and had the story to tell.

I've bought the gasket to play it safe. If the weather cooperates, I'm going to dive into it this weekend. I'm going to try doing it in the car without removing the transmission. Wish me luck.

- Pete

I've tried using RTV. Don't waste your time with it. I have replaced my oil pan gasket 3 times and it is leaking again.
-Once with a felpro gasket (lasted about 20,000 miles), followed the factory procedure in which the engine isnt removed from the vehicle
-Again, i decided that a gasket was no longer the way to go so I replaced the oil pan and used permatex ultra black (lasted 17 miles!). I pulled the engine, flipped it on an engine stand and allowed 24 hours cure time before reinstalling.
-Last, went back to a felpro gasket and used permatex gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket (lasted 6000 miles, discovered leaking again during my most recent oil change). I pulled the engine this time as well.

I went into it each time with a rear main on hand and never found it leaking but replaced it anyways. I'm hoping that there is a permanent solution that someone has discovered

Good rtv will seal a flat smooth surface. Use permatex ultra black, ultra copper, or "the right stuff" any of those will work great. I like the right stuff the best because it's thicker and cures fastest

The key is to have a completely clean surface it has to be scraped and degreased with brake cleaner.

You need to use a high quality gasket too
Use rtv on both sides of the gasket and it will never leak again.

Chommers said:

I've tried using RTV. Don't waste your time with it. I have replaced my oil pan gasket 3 times and it is leaking again.
-Once with a felpro gasket (lasted about 20,000 miles), followed the factory procedure in which the engine isnt removed from the vehicle
-Again, i decided that a gasket was no longer the way to go so I replaced the oil pan and used permatex ultra black (lasted 17 miles!). I pulled the engine, flipped it on an engine stand and allowed 24 hours cure time before reinstalling.
-Last, went back to a felpro gasket and used permatex gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket (lasted 6000 miles, discovered leaking again during my most recent oil change). I pulled the engine this time as well.

I went into it each time with a rear main on hand and never found it leaking but replaced it anyways. I'm hoping that there is a permanent solution that someone has discovered

Click to expand...

Did you take the transmission out each time? Ouch! Felpro makes two different gaskets for this application. One is the OE style rubber gasket and the other has an aluminum rib that runs through the whole thing. The rib is designed to keep if from deforming and pushing out of position. Both types should be installed dry. You don't want to put RTV on a rubber gasket.

If it keeps pushing out, you may want to look at a few things. Is the pan distorted in some way that it doesn't contact the gasket properly? Next, and this is real important, do you have excessive blowby and or a PCV system that's not venting properly. Too much crankcase pressure will make your life miserable.

- Pete

BRUTUS_T_HOG said:

Good rtv will seal a flat smooth surface. Use permatex ultra black, ultra copper, or "the right stuff" any of those will work great. I like the right stuff the best because it's thicker and cures fastest

The key is to have a completely clean surface it has to be scraped and degreased with brake cleaner.

You need to use a high quality gasket too
Use rtv on both sides of the gasket and it will never leak again.

Click to expand...

I don't think RTV by itself is the way to go. The pan isn't designed to be sealed with it so it's a real crapshoot to how well it will hold up over time. I would not recommend using RTV on a rubber gasket. It won't stick properly and may actually cause it to move out of position more easily.

- Pete

Well when it's my paycheck on the line I wouldn't risk putting it on dry. If you let the silicone dry to the pan it glues the gasket in place. Then coat the other side and install.

Most all manufacturers are using rtv without a gasket these days for a lot of applications.

When I first started my career I used to believe in installing gaskets dry until I had to do a few jobs twice..... for free. Ever since I started coating gaskets with rtv or just using rtv straight I've never had a leak come back

Suit yourself but I wouldn't put it on a rubber gasket. Here's Ford's bulletin. Their revised gasket goes on dry. They do put a bead of sealant at the front cover seams to keep oil from leaking through the crack, but the gasket is dry.

- Pete

I'm still at it. I've got the engine and transmission lifted and blocked. I have the pan loose and the oil pump off and sitting in the bottom of the pan but I just can't get the pan clear of the transmission separator plate. The drive rod for the oil pump seems to be in the way and I just have been unable to either remove it from the pump or pull it out of the block. Is it driven off the cam? Does it come out from the top or can it drop out from the bottom?

It's looking more and more like the transmission has to come out or at the very least, separated and pushed back a couple of inches.

- Pete

The rod is driven off of the cam. Looking online it looks like it comes off the top under the camshaft sync

That's what I was afraid of. The intake manifold probably has to come off to get to it. Even with the rod out, I'm not sure if the oil pan will clear the bell housing.

- Pete