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Bracket lift vs bent lengthened beams


Hagan

08/2013 OTOTM Winner
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Jan 3, 2009
Messages
1,079
City
Salem, OR
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1986
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Manual
Ok I am still working on regearing my truck and I am planning on running 35's and I know I need to lift it. There are a lot of bracket lifts and options to go with. A bracket lift simply drops everything down a certain amount and its like having the stock suspension but higher. So, i've been seeing bent and lengthened beams for around $200-$250. Seems like a better solution? What do you think?

I think with the bent beams you get a lot more wheel travel?
 
The bent beams allow for more ground clearence.

Plus drop brackets are weak and put more stress on the areas of the frame they mount to..

You will get more wheel travel out of longer radius arms..

Extending the beams will help keep the camber change to a minimum during the suspensions cycle.

I prefer a "Cut and Turn" beam setup over drop brackets any day.

Cut and Turn=Bent beams
 
The bent beams allow for more ground clearence.

Plus drop brackets are weak and put more stress on the areas of the frame they mount to..

You will get more wheel travel out of longer radius arms..

Extending the beams will help keep the camber change to a minimum during the suspensions cycle.

I prefer a "Cut and Turn" beam setup over drop brackets any day.

Cut and Turn=Bent beams


I think drop brackets are weak too. And it seems like they are for street queens.

So, extended beams would have a back camber angle, but extended beams that are turned have a good camber angle = thats the one I want!

But I'm assuming I will need longer axle shafts?

Also, does it matter that its more for rocks and not desert prerunnner?
 
My take on this subject:

Bent (or C&T) beams are without a doubt your best option if you like to play at high speed (jumping, blasting through the desert, etc.) and have little interest in slow-speed crawling. Like said above, you'll have much more clearance, especially during those moments the suspension fully compresses while launching/landing (no big brackets sticking down).

WHere there's a disadvantage though is with the increased jacking effect due to the beam pivots being up higher within the chassis. In slow-speed offcamber situations (especially if steeply climbing uphill), this makes the truck feel more unstable than if you had stock (geometry) beams.
Additionally, it puts some additional strain on the axle u-joints and/or the center slip-spline. If the u-joints are at a constant angle (the center one in particular), you may notice a small lurching or shaking effect while in 4WD under light throttle (desert guys typically run it in 2WD (using 4WD only in situations that require it) and normally wouldn't notice this).


Lastly, not all drop brackets are created equal! Though many are weak, some (such as Skyjacker or James Duff) are actually strongER than the stock OE brackets (this because they also greatly widen the footprint where it's attached to the frame). Because of this it would not be accurate to say a C&T lift is stronger than a bracket lift, it's all going to matter on the individual parts used.
Not even a SJ or JD bracket is likely to survive an object strike at high speed though, so this does take you back to the C&T'ed beams again if that's how you like to play.
 
I think drop brackets are weak too. And it seems like they are for street queens.

So, extended beams would have a back camber angle, but extended beams that are turned have a good camber angle = thats the one I want!

But I'm assuming I will need longer axle shafts?

Also, does it matter that its more for rocks and not desert prerunnner?

Drop brackets for street queens huh?

d4bdb5f2.jpg


a57dd878.jpg


I doubt this SJ bracket is going anywhere, the mounting footprint is larger than the stock one, not to mention 1/4" plate is twice as thick as what the stocker uses, and that it utilizes more bolts to tie into the frame. But then again, my truck is not a PreRunner, and I don't intend on running it at highspeeds, where this bracket would be vulnerable, and a C&T would be better suited for that siuation...

b848571f.jpg
 
Damn your truck is AMAZING!

Just looking for a lot of flex, and I thought bent beams were the way to go. I'm not building a prerunner truck either.

Oh yeah and I love your steering setup!
 
My take on this subject:

Bent (or C&T) beams are without a doubt your best option if you like to play at high speed (jumping, blasting through the desert, etc.) and have little interest in slow-speed crawling. Like said above, you'll have much more clearance, especially during those moments the suspension fully compresses while launching/landing (no big brackets sticking down).

WHere there's a disadvantage though is with the increased jacking effect due to the beam pivots being up higher within the chassis. In slow-speed offcamber situations (especially if steeply climbing uphill), this makes the truck feel more unstable than if you had stock (geometry) beams.
Additionally, it puts some additional strain on the axle u-joints and/or the center slip-spline. If the u-joints are at a constant angle (the center one in particular), you may notice a small lurching or shaking effect while in 4WD under light throttle (desert guys typically run it in 2WD (using 4WD only in situations that require it) and normally wouldn't notice this).


Lastly, not all drop brackets are created equal! Though many are weak, some (such as Skyjacker or James Duff) are actually strongER than the stock OE brackets (this because they also greatly widen the footprint where it's attached to the frame). Because of this it would not be accurate to say a C&T lift is stronger than a bracket lift, it's all going to matter on the individual parts used.
Not even a SJ or JD bracket is likely to survive an object strike at high speed though, so this does take you back to the C&T'ed beams again if that's how you like to play.

No I play more in the rocks and not in mud or sand. My truck will NEVER be jumped. I just want to build it the right way the first time and no regrets.

So, if I was building it for woods/rocks drop brackets would be the way to go. Mostly Skyjacker or James Duff? I want a lot of flex. I don't necessarily care for prerunning or anything like that.

So, plan is to run SJ lift brackets, James duff coil buckets, stock radius arms but extended or bent (I'm fabbing them myself). Obviously I'm swapping a d35 in and I'm running 5.13's on 35's.
 
Just looking for a lot of flex, and I thought bent beams were the way to go. I'm not building a prerunner truck either.

Flex (or travel) is going to be determined by what coil springs and length of the shocks you run (having extended radius arms will play a role also).

I have stock beams (reinforced in a few spots) on my BII with Skyjacker 6" Jeep Cherokee coils, and 12" travel Bilstein shocks (good for a hair over 5" lift on a BII). I get just over 20" of flex which I've measured at the wheel.

702959_62_full.jpg


Most of my running is on rocky stuff like seen in that pic (no mud, very little jumping/high speed use).

I suspect the dual-use JD coil buckets will allow you the widest range of coils that will fit if you want to experiment some with it (standard TTB coils (stiff), '79down Ford coils, or Jeep coils (possibly with slight keeper clip mods)).

Also, I do believe the SJ bracket (for d-side beam) is made from 3/16" steel, which is still way thicker than the OE stuff (opposite-side bracket is cast like the OE one is, but thicker as well).
 
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Flex (or travel) is going to be determined by what coil springs and length of the shocks you run (having extended radius arms will play a role also).

I have stock beams (reinforced in a few spots) on my BII with Skyjacker 6" Jeep Cherokee coils, and 12" travel Bilstein shocks (good for a hair over 5" lift on a BII). I get just over 20" of flex which I've measured at the wheel.

Most of my running is on rocky stuff like seen in that pic (no mud, very little jumping/high speed use).

I suspect the dual-use JD coil buckets will allow you the widest range of coils that will fit if you want to experiment some with it (standard TTB coils (stiff), '79down Ford coils, or Jeep coils (possibly with slight keeper clip mods)).

Also, I do believe the SJ bracket (for d-side beam) is made from 3/16" steel, which is still way thicker than the OE stuff (opposite-side bracket is cast like the OE one is, but thicker as well).

Oh I see. Well it sounds like the brackets are adequate for my build. And 20" of wheel travel is a lot!

How exactly did you reinforce your stock beams?
 
The biggest weak spot (used in a trail/crawler app) seems to be the passengerside right where the boxed section opens up into the c-channel area. Right where the welds end i've seen a few examples of cracks developing there, so I boxed (plated in) the backside of it up all the way to the pivot. I added a bit of plating on the d-side beam as well, though it doesn't seem near as vulnerable to cracking as the other side is (d-side is longer + no stock welds on it in that area)

I've also been contemplating running a brace across the front of the d-side beam much like what is commonly seen on beams built for prerunners, as it would add some rigidity if I were to strike a tree stump or rock in the center of it, though aside from that, there isn't too much else to worry about on it if you're not going to be jumping it a lot.
 

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