disengagine back of motor from manual trans

whitebroncoii87 · Sep 2, 2015

Hi, I'm in middle of pulling my 2.9l engine out. Have the bell housing nuts out and pulled the motor forward a little to see the engine block and bell housing clear the dowel, but the center (crankshaft? don't know what's in there) is still attached.

1. How do I disengage the center part so I can start jacking my motor up on the hoist?

2. Do I need to remove the engine mount brackets? I only have the nuts removed.

3. Do flywheel and clutch stay attached to the motor when pulled?

Thanks for helping!

jeremysdad · Sep 2, 2015

1: Either pull motor more forward or pull transmission back. That shaft is the input shaft for the trans.

2: Usually not required in the various vehicles I have worked on, but could make pulling motor forward easier, dep on interfences. (never done your particular combo, so not 100% sure)

3: Yes, clutch and pressure plate remain attached to flywheel.

RonD · Sep 2, 2015

Yes, flywheel stays attached to engine and so can pressure plate, BUT.....you need to pull engine straight forward so trans input shaft is pulled all the way out to clear pressure plate.
The clutch disc is sandwiched between flywheel and pressure plate it has splines that grip input shaft, it is not attached to input shaft just grips it with the splines, so you need to slide input shaft out straight or it will bind on the splines.

So pulling the trans may be better before pulling the engine.
Because when you put engine back in it will be even harder to line up

adsm08 · Sep 2, 2015

I have taken many engines and transmissions out of various 1st gen RBVs, and various other vehicles, and on RWD applications, without exception, it is far easier to take the trans down, and then take the engine out.

The benefits of that are somewhat limited on disassembly, but going back together it makes a world of difference.

The only exception is certain 2wd applications it is easier to just pull the engine and trans out the front as a unit and then separate them out of the vehicle. My mom's Mustang for example.

whitebroncoii87 · Sep 2, 2015

ok, I'm sold on pulling the trans out. Don't know anything about trans and drivetrain. Which section of should I dissemble? Do I need to dissemble the gearshifter inside the vehicle too? Thanks!

adsm08 · Sep 2, 2015

I'm not sure what you mean by "which section should I disassemble". You don't really disassemble anything, you just take the trans out. Clutch line off, drive shafts out, support down, and watch out, she's coming out. At this point though you have your cart before your horse, and need to get the engine out of the way.

Get a floor jack under the front of the trans, get a ratchet strap around the boom of your hoist and hook it onto the crank pulley or the fan, which ever is more accessible. Get the trans jacked up as far as it will go, get the rad out of the way if you haven't already, get the engine as far forward as you can. If you have AC and the fan is still on you will have to bend the blades a bit to get around the core support. If you don't have AC you can pull the engine forward, get the clutch out of the bell and then spin the engine side-ways in the engine bay and pull straight up.

It's a bit wonky, I know, but it works, and you don't have to waste the many hours I did to figure it out.

RonD · Sep 2, 2015

Yes, if you have a manual transmission then you need to pull off the shift arm

Look here: http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2007/shifterbushings.shtml

You don't need to pull the lower part out, just the long arm, then lower trans and slide it back and out of flywheel and pressure plate.

After engine is out, if you remove the pressure plate there is a plastic tool that is needed to align the clutch disc with pilot bearing when putting pressure place back on.
The tool comes with clutch kit, but you can buy them for a few dollars
If you are not using new clutch then I would still replace slave

whitebroncoii87 · Sep 4, 2015

having trouble removing slave cylinder line off of bell housing, cannot not get a good look at it behind and under the firewall. I understand there is a clip that pulls off, How do I work the clip? Any pictures? Thanks!

adsm08 · Sep 4, 2015

It's just a butterfly pin, you find the loop and pull. The line should pop out then.

whitebroncoii87 · Sep 6, 2015

Ok, I got the engine out, I'm trying to get it on the engine stand, I have to bolt the engine stand claws to the holes there for the bell housing. But the clutch and flywheel are in the way, I pulled the clutch and coverplate, but I can't get flywheel off, the flywheel is turning as I'm trying to loosing the nuts.. How do I get the flywheel off? Is it worth getting the flywheel off? I'm thinking if I can't get it off I will get some spacers between the claw and the holes and longer bolts to make clearance. Any similar experience trying to mount the engine on the stand? Thanks!

RonD · Sep 6, 2015

Best way is to use and impact wrench, crank won't turn as much.
But if you have to use a wrench or socket then put a wood dowel down a spark plug hole, then turn engine until piston stops against the dowel.
That will give you enough leverage to loosen flywheel bolts.

You can use a screw driver instead of a dowel, chances of hurting piston or cylinder are pretty remote.

Die.Fledermaus · Sep 6, 2015

...wood dowel down a spark plug hole, then turn engine until piston stops against the dowel.
That will give you enough leverage to loosen flywheel bolts.

You can use a screw driver instead of a dowel, chances of hurting piston or cylinder are pretty remote.

Yikes, I have heard of this method before but the less scary version by using a piece of rope on the up cycle of compression (remember rotation of what you are undoing, sometimes not normal engine rotation).

Another method is a crowbar/flywheel lock to stop the flywheel from turning. You can use a transmission bolt and nearly anything that can wedge/block against teeth (stop turning) this doesn't take much force and can be used with hand tools.

RonD · Sep 7, 2015

Rope is for changing valve guide seals without removing head, and to advanced a technology for just removing flywheel bolts or harmonic balancer bolt

whitebroncoii87 · Sep 7, 2015

saw this on google image and copied exactly and got the flywheel off

RonD · Sep 7, 2015

+1, and that looks good as well

disengagine back of motor from manual trans

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