Twister 85 B2 Build

Well i have a build thread on another site, but that site doesnt get the traffic this site does, so i am going to start a thread here too to get more questions answered faster. A lot of what i am going to post at first is going to be old stuff i did to my truck.

Well, i think my Bronco II is going to be sticking around for quite some time so i thought i would make a build thread.

Well I first started looking into Bronco II's when i was on the hunt for my first car. I had my mind made up that i wanted a 4x4 SUV. Both my brothers have Cherokees so i thought, why get one of those they are boring :lmao:. I am not particularly fond of Chevy's (dont hate them), and all the foreign SUVs were way way over priced, so i found Bronco II on Wikipedia and fell in love .

I started looking for a B2 and there wasn't much on craigslist. All the ones that were on craigslist were way over my budget of under $800. So i made a post on craigslist looking for a bronco II, i got a few emails but they were out of my budget. I finally got an email from a man who said he had an 85 Bronco II auto 4x4 for $600. I said hey thats in my budget, so me and my brother went to look at it. Not knowing i printed off direction and we headed off, about 10 minutes after we left my brother asked "Where is this truck at", i replied "West Point" he was thats an hour and a half away, i didn't know it was. :lmao:

We got to our destination, it was a farm on a back dirt road in the middle of a corn field, got out and i could see the Little Bronco sitting down a hill. We introduced ourselves, then he went down and got it. It was a little rusty and certainly dirty, the inside was dirty as all hell and corn spread across the interior. We took it for a test drive, the transmission shifted great and it started and ran great. Went back and haggled the man down to $480 and i was on my way home with my first car

I got it home, got different tires put on, cleaned her up and took the running boards off and this was what i was left with:










Found a pic from the side

Well, after i got it home and cleaned her up i didn't do much to it for some time. When spring came i noticed my temp gauge would run on the hot side, often going over the red line. I dont think it actually ever over heated but by the gauge it got hot. So i replaced the smaller things first, i started with a new thermostat, that didnt work, next was the water pump, that didn't help, moved on to the fan clutch and that did nothing as well. So after reading some threads i came to the conclusion i needed a new radiator. I ordered a 2 core radiator for an automatic explorer for $80 off of eBay and put it in 2 days after i got it.

During the install i picked up an aftermarket temp gauge to get a better look at the temps of my engine. After te explorer rad was put in, I hardly saw temps above 200*F.

Some more updates of past upgrades to my truck.

So after a year of driving the truck i got tired of the lack of power. So i started research ways to get more power out of the 2.8, i cam across the TBI swap and the duraspark swap. I decided i was going to go with the TBI swap because i wanted to eliminate the annoying carburetor. So i scoured the junkyards for a month for parts for the TBI swap but i was unsuccessful in finding any cars that would work for the swap. So my next option was to go ahead and do the durasaprk swap. So i started buying pieces for it, i got all the parts new from the parts store and found a carburetor off of a 64 mustang 289 that was rebuilt by pony carbs on eBay for $80.

Cap and rotor



Dizzy






So i got started pulling the wiring harness and the vacuum line and solenoid.



It felt good pulling out all of the wires and all the vacuum lines that were not hooked up.

After i got everything installed, i could not get the truck to fire up. I rechecked that i had got the engine to TDC before i put the dizzy in and all my connection were good. Someone on TRS suggested i add a small wire that goes from one connection to one of the small posts on the starter solenoid.




That made my truck able to turn over but not start. So i checked and made sure i had spark, got spark, made sure i was getting fuel, i was. So i could not figure ot what the problem was. So i thought i was 180* out of timing, but i rechecked my TDC and it didnt add up. In the process of trying to ge the truck to start i went through 3 duraspark boxes (luckily they have lifetime warranties :lmao So i talked to my brothers friend who knows some about cars and he suggested i make sure my wires were on the right posts and spark plugs, they were. At that point i was out of ideas on what to do. I posted a thread on here and on TRS about things that could cause my truck not to fire. Someone suggested i move my wires clockwise and counterclockwise on the dizzy cap, becuase maybe i had gotten the timing off by a tooth when putting in the dizzy. So i put it forward one post and tried to start it and BOOOMM!!!! It made a huge pop, about as loud as a gun. It scared the crap out of me. Come to find out my muffler had blown because of all the unburnt fuel :crazy:. But on the next try she started right up and ran great :applaud: :applaud:

Here was the end product, a cleaned up better running engine.



Heres pics of the blown muffler

New tires i got last summer, i only go to put about 2000 miles on them before the engine let go

I ordered some retreads from treadwright.com

They quoted me 3-4 weeks for them to arrive, but i received them 8 days after i ordered them

Before



After



This a push bar i found at the local pick a part for $25

Well still no progress on the tranny swap :frown_2:

But i found a Push Bar in the local u pull it for $20 bucks so i threw it on.

Before:


Frame horns, with some paint.





The bar on.





This thing is really beefy, it weighs a ton :laugh:

Ok, so from here on is all new stuff .

After driving the truck for close to 2 years, the engine decided it didn't want to dun anymore. On the way home from work it started running like it was out of gas, so i limped it home and it wouldn't start after that. While trying to diagnose what went wrong for 3 month, i got it to start only a handful of times and when it started it would idle ok but when you would try to drive it, it would backfire bad. Replaced the dizzy under warranty, rotor, cap, plugs, wires, dspark box redid all the wiring, but nothing worked

So my buddy sold me his 302

It has an aftermarket cam (don't know which one), an Edelbrock performer intake and a Edelbrock 4 barrel carb. When it was in the mustang, it scooted it quite well.

Here are some pics of pulling the engine.

What we started with (sorry the pic is crappy, dont know why it turned out that way)



Here is me trying to get out the tiny starter bolts







Here it is in the air

So today i went to try and find some casting number on the engine and this is what i found.

E0AE
D30

I think that means is an engine from 1980, from a galaxie maybe? If i am wrong can someone correct me.

Here is a pic

Scrib'd

Going to keep her manual or go auto?

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I haven't decided 100%. If i go auto it is going to be an AOD or a 4r70w if i can run it with a carb, i haven't looked into it much. If i got manual it is going to be an M5Od from a 97 an up v6. I can find all 3 locally from a reputable salvage yard for around $350 - $400 bucks already pulled.

I got my trans and transfercase for $276 and thats them pulling it for me and didn't matter if I wanted an auto or manual. I went with manual because they are fun to drive and I have more control of what the vehicle does plus an auto from a JY seems skidish to me and would more or less need rebuilt. With an auto you will ned to find a carb with the linkage on it for the auto controls or put it on it.

I has my choices of manuals and went with the np435/np208. If need be I'll get a 5 speed in the future with the np205 transfercase, just so I can do the dual stick mod to it.

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Your salvage yards are cheaper than mine lol, and the pick a parts don't really have anything newer than 95.

I think i am just going to go manual so i don't have to source another carb, i am planning on running the carb that's on the motor because i know it works well.

Twister said:

I think i am just going to go manual so i don't have to source another carb, i am planning on running the carb that's on the motor because i know it works well.

Click to expand...

No, you just get an extra thing to go on the throttle linkage of your existing throttle linkage. Pretty sure $20 would catch it.

If you ever want to sell those valve covers let me know, I have another potential V8 project waiting in the wings they would be perfect for

The casting codes are not always correct, actually I have never had one line up with what the engine came out of. My 289 out of a Mustang decodes as a generic Ford engine, my '78 302 out of a LTD decodes as a Lincoln and my '87 out of a Crown Vic decodes as a truck engine.

E = 1980's
0 = 1980
A = Generic Fullsized Ford
E = Engine part

I have seen 5 speed 97+ V6 F-150's in the Omaha yards, never gotten ambitious enough yet to yank the top cover/shifter out of one yet though. I guess I never really checked but the older ones with a 5.0 should be fairly easy to snag as well... then you only have to hope it wasn't owned for 20 years by one of those idiots that doesn't think they need to use a clutch.

subscribed..

The I've I go to would be lucky to have anything above 95. Most of the vehicles are from 50 to early 90s. Plus the owner of the yard has known me for ever so I get a slight discount plus can roam the yard as I please.

I say if the engine is tuned, then try to keep it like that.

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Subscribed...Good luck on your build!


B2

85_Ranger4x4 said:

No, you just get an extra thing to go on the throttle linkage of your existing throttle linkage. Pretty sure $20 would catch it.

If you ever want to sell those valve covers let me know, I have another potential V8 project waiting in the wings they would be perfect for

The casting codes are not always correct, actually I have never had one line up with what the engine came out of. My 289 out of a Mustang decodes as a generic Ford engine, my '78 302 out of a LTD decodes as a Lincoln and my '87 out of a Crown Vic decodes as a truck engine.

E = 1980's
0 = 1980
A = Generic Fullsized Ford
E = Engine part

I have seen 5 speed 97+ V6 F-150's in the Omaha yards, never gotten ambitious enough yet to yank the top cover/shifter out of one yet though. I guess I never really checked but the older ones with a 5.0 should be fairly easy to snag as well... then you only have to hope it wasn't owned for 20 years by one of those idiots that doesn't think they need to use a clutch.

Click to expand...

What yards did you see those trucks in, i frequent both u pull its and i don't remember seeing any new body style f150s, and if i see one it is an auto. I know a 5sp from an older truck would work, but don't those ones put the shifter farther in or something, i thought that is why people suggest the one form the 97 and up v6.

And sorry, i am keeping those valve cover, they are freaking awesome