The fittings take an 11mm flare nut wrench and are 1/4" thread. I used 2 1/4" unions and a 4" piece of 3/16" hard line with 1/4" inverted flare nuts on each end.
I left the RABS module on the frame rail and left the electrical connector plugged in, as with it unplugged you will get a RABS light on the dash all the time.
WOW I was not expecting a list that detailed of how to bypass it. Thanks I should have waited longer to read your post before I went and bought a new RABS module. Anyone know what RABS stands for? Rear Anti-lock brake system? I could not find the part by searching by RABS but did find the part and its name is ABS modulator valve. Hope this helps someone else. I am now pleased to report my brakes work like new. Thanks Sasquatch_Ryda it was one of your old posts that I read and learned about what the problem might be and you helped me fix my truck. Thanks again.
I couldn't be bothered to spend the $100 or so dollars to replace a part for a system that doesn't work worth a damn anyways. The 10 dollars I spent on fittings and a chuck of brake line seemed like the better option.
For
a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting
Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here.
Click the banner to find out how.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.