1993 ford ranger no start

Hey guys ive got a 1993 ford ranger 2.3l 8 plug, 5 speed, xlt model.
my ranger is currently not starting for me just cranking? need help!

it all started with my harmonic balancer and timing veins separating, beliven it had takin my crankshaft sensor with it as well i replaced the sensor and i fixed the hub and veins myself to ford spec's, trust me i made sure 100x's. still wouldn't start replaced the DIS system, plugs, wires, coil packs, and ECM!!
i've found that when i pull the spout (spark out test plug) is unplugged the truck runs fine and defualted timing of 10 degrees BTC, and when i plug it back in while it has started and running while it was unplugged at first the timming jumps to 10-12 degrees BTC?? i put a timing light on the darn thing while spout plugged in and was getting 10 ATC?? my fuel pressure at rail is 40psi and while it ran it was 32ish psi, and the engine has compression too, if i remember it was about 145, 155 in the ranger? good or Bad??


need some help badly ive put to much into this thing between money and time away from family.

Welcome to TRS

A little confused on the current situation

When starter motor is working but you have a no start, then you do 50/50 test
Add gasoline or Quick Start(ether) to the intake
Crank engine
If it starts and dies then you have a fuel issue
If it still doesn't start then its a Spark or compression issue
50/50 quick and easy, no waiting, lol, and no wondering

Doesn't matter what was done before and what it, "for sure" can't be, do the 50/50 test and find out where to focus your attention.

Fuel pressure does not mean fuel in the intake
Just like spark on the wire doesn't mean its at the right time.

And the 2.3l can surprise you, broken timing belt can happen any time.

And "New" used to mean "tested and working"
New now means "you test it and we will replace it if it doesn't work"

So saying a part is new just means it hasn't been tested, not that you can assume it works

Compression testing
With 1 spark plug removed from each cylinder and a good battery for fast crank speed, 2.3l should be 160+psi, at sea level to 2,000ft elevation

Close to 170psi is not unusual, 1993 2.3l used 9.2:1 compression ratio
Conservative multiplier is 18, 18.3 is more accurate all things being equal
18 X 9.2 = 165.6psi
18.3 X 9.2 = 168.4psi

Compression gauges are rarely calibrated so 10% +/- is OK, all cylinders being close in range is more important than actual psi number, unless it is down at 130psi of less, then there is an issue with gauge, lol, or engine timing

okay i have done the 50/50 test numerous times same restult no start, with either gas or starting fluid. i reran the compression test fresh charge on battery and getting bout 155-160 is this okay? motor has 335000 miles on it. i did a spark test getting spark, at both coil, wire, and plug. as far as the timing belt goes brand new timing belt, crankshaft sensor, and fixed harmonic hub and timing veins that had separated. i also ran through the test procedure to check CKP signal and CID signal ive got both. ive also gone through most all grounding points for the truck and all good. is there something im missing anything??

okay i have done the 50/50 test numerous times same restult no start, with either gas or starting fluid. i reran the compression test fresh charge on battery and getting bout 155-160 is this okay? motor has 335000 miles on it. i did a spark test getting spark, at both coil, wire, and plug. as far as the timing belt goes brand new timing belt, crankshaft sensor, and fixed harmonic hub and timing veins that had separated. i also ran through the test procedure to check CKP signal and CID signal ive got both. ive also gone through most all grounding points for the truck and all good. is there something im missing anything??

Yes, compression is OK

If engine doesn't fire with 50/50 test, and you have compression then spark IS the issue

The 2.3l 8 spark plug setup uses two coil packs
While starter motor is active only the Exhaust side coil pack and spark plugs should be working, intake side will start working when RPMs are above 400, so after engine starts.

So if you test for spark test exhaust side coil/plugs

Ford uses a Waste Spark system, this means that each cylinder gets spark each time it is at TDC, compression or exhaust stroke doesn't matter, at TDC it gets spark.
In the coil pack are two coils, not 4
Each coil in the pack sparks two spark plugs, so spark plugs are wired in series.
1 and 4 both spark at the same time, then 2 and 3 both spark at the same time 180deg later

And once engine is running there is no alternating, lol, popular myth on this setup
Both spark plugs in #1 fire every time piston is at TDC, also both spark plugs in #4 at the same time.

Since you have fuel, added manually, and you have compression, tested, then your spark is the problem.
Crank sensor was an issue before I would say it is the issue again, if you have spark it is happening at the wrong time.

Assuming crank pulley and timing mark are correct, I would test that by pulling #1 spark plug and testing if #1 piston is at TDC when pulley mark is at 0deg TDC
If so then hook up timing light to #1 exhaust side spark wire and crank engine to see if crank sensor is also aligned.
It could be crank sensor/wheel is off and you are getting spark at the wrong time

Until 1995 the spark was operated by the ICM(ignition control module) on front side of lower intake, no computer connection was needed for startup, it was an autonomous module.
It connects directly to crank sensor and coil packs, and sets based spark timing solely on crank sensor data
The computer connection allowed for fuel injector timing based on crank sensor timing, and RPM data, and computer could "suggest" spark timing changes(after startup) based on driver input.
The ICM timed spark advance/retard only based on RPM, like the counter weights and springs did in a distributor
The computer connection was like the Vacuum advance on a distributor, it allowed spark timing changes based on driver input, i.e. pressing gas pedal down(changed vacuum advance), computer has throttle position sensor(TPS) for that info, this allows for faster throttle response
SPOUT(spark out) wire has the "suggested" spark timing changes to ICM, but SPOUT is not used by ICM for startup

In 1995 and up ICM was built into the newer EEC-V computers, this was more reliable than a separate ICM

1993 Ranger no start

Everything you mentioned confirms what I've found. I've got fuel, compression and spark and the engine will start and run if the SPOUT jumper is removed. It just seems that the "suggested" spark timing provided by the EEC-IV via the SPOUT signal is way out of wack.

I have confirmed that the hall effect sensor is outputting signals. I can see it's output for both change state as the veins on the back of the harmonic balancer hub pass through the sensor.

You mentioned that SPOUT is not used at initial start and that seems to be what I see because the engine tries to start and run for a split second and then immediately dies as if the SPOUT signal is killing it.

Unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope. I think it'd be interesting to watch the CKP, CMP and the SPOUT signals with and without the SPOUT jumper plugged in. From what I've read during normal operation with the SPOUT jumper in place the ICM uses the falling edge of the SPOUT signal to fire the correct plug at that time. Basically the ICM knows which plug to fire and the EEC tells the ICM when to fire the plug

Could it be a bad sensor input to the EEC or could a sensor input be so far out that the EEC would not be calculating and outputting a good SPOUT signal?

This is really kicking my butt. Do you have any more suggestions?

1993 Ranger no start

Here's some additional information.

I can pull the SPOUT jumper to get the truck started and of course it will run with the base 10 deg BTDC timing. If I plug the SPOUT jumper back while the engine is running in it will continue to run and checking with the timing light I can see the ignition timing advance normally as I rev the engine.

Pull out your wallet. From the description, it seems the ECM is not responding properly to givens at first startup, but only after the engine is running (for a few seconds..?)
In addition, something else to consider is whether the timing is in 'Open Loop' or in 'Closed Loop' operation. Open is to be fixed at 10BTDC, I think, while closed loop will have the computer set the timing adjustment.
I suspect there may be a testing method to determine if the ECM is responding properly, or perhaps sending flaky information diddling with the SPOUT until it has had time to get warmed up itself. I do not know it.
tom

The ICM is autonomous for spark timing, doesn't need the computers SPOUT, which is why engine starts and runs without SPOUT

Computer does need the timing pulse from ICM to start fuel injectors, so that part is working

ICM can advance spark timing solely based on RPM
But it has no way to detect air:fuel mix or engine temp, which are important for responsive spark timing changes, Rich mix burns faster than Lean mix so you want less advance when accelerating or when engine is cold.
Thats what the SPOUT connection is for.
On Cold start all gas engines need to be Choked, so computer needs/uses ECT sensor to determine coolant temp
So on cold start computer "Chokes" the engine, this is very Rich fuel mix, high idle and spark timing change

So computer bases SPOUT "suggestions" on engine temp(ECT sensor) and of course throttle position(TPS).

If you have a timing light I would see if you can get exact spark timing without SPOUT and the with SPOUT.
Yes, 10-12deg BTDC is common base spark timing for most gas engines at warmed up and at idle, 700RPM
If cold engine is running OK at 10-12deg then timing is off, not really 10-12deg
Base timing can only be set/confirmed with engine coolant at operating temp or close to it.

On a distributor engine you disabled Vacuum Advance to set Base spark timing, so only centrifugal advance was used(RPM advance), but for vehicle operation you reconnected Vacuum Advance which Changed base spark timing for "normal" operation.

So spark timing MUST change with SPOUT Connected, thats the vacuum advance.

With a carb and distributor engine a Choke Plate was used, what this did was to "choke off" air flow in to the carb, this caused an increase in Vacuum level in intake(below throttle plate) which sucked more gasoline from the idler Jets(Rich fuel mix), and changed Vacuum Advance in distributor.
Also a cam on linkage set higher idle, lol.

Point being the Computer via SPOUT will/should change the spark timing when SPOUT wire is connected.
If engine is not starting or stalling with SPOUT connected then Computer may be getting bad data from ECT or TPS, or computer SPOUT circuit is bad

Now the ICM on the 2.3l was not known to last, they did have there issues, most auto parts stores can test them but not sure if a SPOUT circuit test is involved