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Its about that time.


Custom setup with solder and the works. Use V=IR, 12V system, and the resistance of the blue LED. This will get give the resistor used for the procedure.

There are already done LED bulbs that will replace the stock incandescent ones, though. A project can get pricey though...

Ill just answer both of you at the same time.

I have a small company that I started a few years back back when I was big into the import thing.
I still operate it but the volume is very low (quality over quantity) and its more of a spare time thing sense I work a lot.

The V=I/R is basic electrics.
with resisters you need to know a little more.
incoming voltage, amperage, diode voltage and so on..
so the Basic formula would be more like...
R = (V1 - V2) / I

where:
V1 = power supply voltage
V2 = LED voltage
I = LED current (usually 20mA to 35mA which is .02A to .035A)
R = Resistor Value

Total cost for me was less the $2.50 for the entire setup.
It was all custom, but I can convert it back if needed.
I have t10 bases for the 168/194 bulbs so those are basically plug and play.
the Headlight switch and cruse lights are close to a t1 but they are soldered in and they are twist locks, so those are custom.

But as Ive stated in the electrical section I can do this for any one if they supply me with there old twist locks.

The old light from the headlight switch
IMAG0250.jpg


the LED Replacement.
IMAG0251.jpg


The twist lock, with a 3mm LED in it, next to the stock bulb and a 5MM LED
9-22-11%2B608.jpg


the New LED and old Twist lock in the switch.
9-22-11%2B609.jpg
 
I got just a little bored yesterday do I decided to us the little green 60ton forklift to flex the truck.
And this is what I got out of it.


IMAG0516.jpg


IMAG0517.jpg


IMAG0518.jpg


IMAG0519.jpg


IMAG0520.jpg


IMAG0521.jpg


IMAG0522.jpg


IMAG0523.jpg
 
Looks good, Northern!
 
Thanks Pete, Checked your page out, I like..
 

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