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Couldnt find any cracked wires. Mine all seem to be in decent shape as far as cracking goes. We pulled terminal off battery to see how truck would run off alternator alone and she was all over the place, 10v to 15.5v, ran rough as hell. Is that normal? I thought they would run not terrible off...

Update: tried new ignition swich. No buenos. Problem persists. I'm going to go back to the coil. Triple check the connector and the main wire to distributor.

Right now I'm looking into the ignition switch - I'll have one today to swap out and see. The gas gauge, the TFI ignition module, alternator, they are all tied into the ignition switch. Stay tuned I've already shaken/pulled on every plug, wire, harness I can find on the truck while its running...

Also should add: I read the codes off it many times before, though nothing made sense. I can't remember what those codes were anymore now and so I will try and pull the codes again here soon and post. I tend to think it might just be more confusing than anything however. Those early EFI...

Hi again, I'm back a year and a half after rebuild motor and tranny (rebuild February 2020) in my 87 2.9L 4x4 ranger. This truck is my daily and it will be moving me and all my worldly possessions across 800km of mountain ranges and rolling plains in 2 weeks time. I will start a new job then...

I think mine was faulty, putting out up to 12v at times. I don’t think they are supposed to go much over 6 volts with the pulse. I have since learned that the pulse is their function but with the new part in there I think I can expect more reliability.

Sorry maybe I didn't say it in the post, I bought and installed a new alternator to eliminate that as potential problem. Pretty sure I didnt need one now but hindsight is 20/20 and now I have spare. PROBLEM SOLVED... so far so good. All that was done in the end was changing the voltage...

Has anyone had trouble with their instrument panel voltage regulator?? Mine seems to have shit the bed as my gas gauge reads full no matter (has new sending unit). With alternator wired up separately, isolating it from the wiring going to cluster, it runs great . However, after test drive, under...

Maybe that’s why I had to put a jumper wire in inertia? Or that’s just another issue lol.. Update: unplug alternator it ran better. Alternator wasn’t charging system at low rpm. Just changed alt, no change. Checking wires

Okay thank you, so that confirms the fuel pump code 95 is normal when ecu swap. Left key on so waiting for battery to charge to test new (used) MAP Will post update. Any ideas are welcome.

Got a couple maps from picknpull and a tps, gonna try them out see if it makes a change

Alright, I am having some trouble. Timing is set to 11deg with spout removed. running poorly. Spout back in, it advances to like 15deg and under load it is backfiring and choking. CODES were 22 (MAP), 63 (TPS), and 95 (fuel pump/fuel pump monitor) KOEO. same codes in hard faults and memory. The...

Update: Mostly back together! engine and tans are back in, just have upper intake and ram air to go, and transfer case, drive shafts and shifters. ERG is gone, Knock sensor gone, 1 cat remaining and is punched out hollow (was plugged), EGR wart in exhaust ports die grinded smooth, gasket...

Can I delete the Vacuum reservoir under the air box? The red EGR line goes to it before the EGR solenoid, and I am deleting the EGR. It would make more room under the hood without the Res so I am wondering if it does much for vacuum components other than the EGR. Please advise

Alright something a touch down from 80w90. Spoke to a trusted mechanic, worked for ford when they used to see these transmissions, said no to engine oil too. Said the synchromesh should have been ok in there.. Doubtful I'll see a dime from the trans shop. They should have looked into the 5th...

You are right it is a mtf... I am baffled as to why this happened now. Long highway miles in 5th before she went (two full days of driving across country) The plan for oil this time around was to use 15w40 I read somewhere on here that someone had been using 10w30 for 2 years with no ill effects

I called a machine shop, they said it would be roughly $250 so I'm going to forget it for now. I am straight broke. I can understand that it makes less sense for a truck. The engine would be able to increase rpm's faster, and slow down faster, but for now, it is a daily drive truck. Less...

You can see the blueing to the thrush washer in the photo above from overheating. That big bearing on the right is the thrush washer and the washer is just beside it. This is the problem area for the FM145. I am curious if anyone has wrecked an FM tans before from running atf in them? The shop...

Does anyone have any thoughts on turning the flywheel down a few pounds?

$399 for new improved heads.. someone still making them... why why WHY much they force us to buy the long block to buy those heads! Man, I am learning a ton rebuilding my 2.9 right now. Just found the porting info I've been looking for in Pruetts book. Unbelievable.