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Yes, the dreaded 1998-2000 vacuum-actuated hub-lockers (aka "hubs") as seen here: https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/use-xg-8-baby-blue-grease-on-pvh-hubs.188218/post-1775204 If not the whole assembly, then at least the main nylon "body" piece. PS: teach a man to...

Was it just the 1998-2000 Rangers that had the aluminum "GT Racing" ;) hood? (Anyone know the weight savings?) Even though I've been able to keep Le' Ranger out of the harsh sun MOST of its life, my allergy to waxing is finally catching up to me. FoMoCo paint is giving out after "only" 25...

This is usually the DRY and sunny and low-humidity time of year, BUT... not for 2023-2024. Any-hoo, one morning seems like rust just "bloomed" overnight, over most of the roof exterior, and apparently the factory paint aged/dried-out in a way that makes it LOOK like it had been turbo-scrubbed...

{Forget this thread for now: https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/clutch-master-cylinder-tell-me-about-the-rubber-cup-seal-thaaang.204206 } So 2 years ago I put in a new Perfection-brand Master+Res+Pressure Line, all good, light duty since then, 6,000 miles, 4,000 of that...

I think that rubber disc on the backside of the clutch pedal "stem" fell off around 2008... been listening to metal-on-metal clack since then... also thinking I don't need nearly that much pedal-travel, as clutch has always disengaged well before pedal-on-floorboard... ... I know there's...

... specifically, when reservoir is full, is that DEEP cone supposed to be squashed flat, up against the bottom of the reservoir cap? Or does it flex up and down with each press of the clutch pedal? I understand you want to keep moisture out of the DOT 3 fluid, but why does this seal take up...

Does FoMoCo still support our fave reliable Mazda stick-shift tranny? And if so, at what price? No worries, NAPA Part # 704-1974 will do the job, cheaply, AND... Made In The USA! The NAPA version is both thicker and has larger O.D. (but same I.D.) as the OEM crush washers, but there are zero...

After decades of never buying WD-40... but always having several cans on hand... because peeps kept giving me theirs after they bought PB-Blaster... I decided to treat myself to the big PB--fancy can with the swing-nozzle, used it ONCE, and SO MUCH better results than WD-40, BUT... riding around...

{I know the infamous throttle cable slack-over-time issue is not engine-specific, but didn't know where else to post it.} BEFORE: Ancient OBD-II reader says idle position TPS reading is 14.9% (normal?), and mashed to the floor is only 87.0%... not good. ANY-hoo, did NOT want to remove...

Actually, 4x4junkie's FAQ is thee ONLY post I've ever seen saying NO front-end re-alignment is necessary... ... OTOH, JohnnyO's '1998+ Lift FAQs' (and EVERY other one I've ever seen) says you DO need an alignment... ... some even go so far as to say you'll need new eccentrics to even be able...

I notice that every variation of Platinum spark plug that is even remotely spec'd for our Ranger/Vulcans comes pre-gapped to the correct "plate" value of 0.044"... just splurged for some Autolite (Fram?) Iridium XP103s, and they come with a gaping-yuuuge-gap of .050... ... should I install...

Yeah, the FORMERLY-great '___ ______ ' in Pimp-ano Beach, FL, which handed me my PVH hubs (they DO fall off when old), then failed to diagnose the months-later "death shimmy" may have screwed me again... had them do the oil & filter while in for new tires... and now that drain plug won't budge...

... there is NO aftermarket diff cover on Earth that will fit in that cramped space??? In fact at fluid change time, best to just SUCK out the old goo, and not even try to crack open that jury-rig?? Let me know, thanks in advance.

Been hitting it with PB Blaster for a couple weeks, no luck yet. Probably from letting battery corrosion get away from me a year or so back. Even though current bolt probably going to be destroyed, need to know the THREAD-spec, so I can either "chase" the current threads in the tray-nut, or...

I first saw this on the very dark flick 'The Counselor', where the shady cartel body shop (who also treated gunshot wounds, lol), used a beefy stick of solder to patch a bullet hole in a tanker truck, and even fill-in the dent, a la Bondo, then spray paint it to match... but I figured, OK...

We've got this helpful thread for where to get the tubing itself... https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/quick-fix-for-broken-windshield-washer-lines.152025/ ... but what about the tees and other fittings? Thanks in advance.

Looks like it has the official Date of Manufacture... 4X = 4WD... and even a "Braille" barcode...? Thanks in advance!

It's more top secret knowledge that never got translated from Japanese, I guess. Not proud that I waited until 80k miles to change the red stuff (which was DARK gray by then, but no weird/burnt smell)... but my gears/bearings/synchros have definitely lost a little weight... what say ye, RKIs...

What say ye, RKIs? Looks like there was dope/compound on there from the factory, and I know to NOT use the white (single density) tape on a fitting > 3/8", but instead use the pink (double density) or yellow (triple-density) tape... OTOH I also have some Oatey "Great White" pipe dope on hand...

... e.g. if the infamous Coolant Temp Sender ELBOW (ell) does its inevitable crack-leak thaaang? The LOWER rad hose is mainly the cooled-off coolant coming OUT of the radiator, but do I understand that this "side hose" has hot water flowing OUT of the t-stat area, providing data to the...