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You Tube Mechanic just scared me about cracked head problems on 3.0


RangerVet

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Jan 26, 2019
Messages
101
City
Kingman, AZ
Vehicle Year
2005
Transmission
Manual
My credo
From here on down it's uphill all the way!
'05 Ranger 2wd Edge 3.0 with 60,000+ miles. Stick shift.
I was watching the Car Wizard channel last night and he was giving his opinions on "What to buy - What not to buy" when it comes to small to medium trucks.
He said the Ford Ranger was a great truck to buy but not those with the 3.0 V6. He said the heads always crack on them. He quoted the same advice from Clearwater Heads out of Florida.
Do I need to replace my heads or have them rebuilt just to make sure it is reliable? I have never spoken with the previous owner but was told by the used car lot where I got it that it had a new radiator and hoses which appears to be true. It looks like rebuilt heads go for around $600 from Clearwater Heads.
Truck runs great with good looking coolant and no overheating. It also worries me that Clearwater Heads does not show a price for the later 3.0 V6. I am retired and do not use the truck very much but I hate to have it blow coolant on a lonely Arizona desert road some day.
 
The 3.0L isn’t know for cracking heads, but anything can happen. The 2.9l is the engine that’s know for cracking heads.
 
My 3.0 has around 170k miles and I've overheated pretty bad it at least once. It’s fine. No signs of any trouble. Haven’t heard anyone around here complain about cracked heads on a 3.0.
 
He needs to research more.

Most people who are ignorant either confuse the 2.9/3.0, or hear the 2.9 has head issues and thinks the 3.0 must be the same engine.

The 3.0 is the nutless, yet reliable one. The 2.9 is the slightly more sensitive to neglect small RBV V6 that can actually scoot and has some attitude.
 
I think they did have a batch with head problems, right about our years, but I think it mostly valve seats. Mine is fine so far.
 
I worked for a dealer from 75- 2017. The 3.0 was introduced in the 86 Taurus and a lot of them developed piston slap which we fixed by replacing the engines with exchange units that had improved, hi silicone pistons. The 87's had problems with off shore head bolts breaking and we replaced a pile of bolts and head gaskets. After that was behind us the worst problem I remember was noisy cam syncro's. 3.0's don't make much power but they'll keep doing it for a long time with reasonable maintenance. We had practically no head cracking problems with 2.9's -unless they'd been overheated. Coolant leaks won't fix themselves and coolant needs to be changed as maintenance. Any neglected component will fail.
 
Since the 3.0 has cast iron heads they will crack if overheated badly. I bought my truck from someone who did just that and did crack the heads. Then I did the same thing on the replacement heads(long story...) However if you keep the engine coolant system maintained the 3.0 is known for running a very long time before failure. As i understand it this engine has also been using in industrial settings because of this reliability. Keep the heads cool and your oil changed and it should last you a long while. Be prepared for leaks though...
 
I think the most prone “head-cracking” engine is the dual-plug 2.3 4cyl, theres just not as much metal there as with the single-plug casting and over time the thermal cycling will cause cracks. I ended up having to get a head from autozone because what I found at the junkyard was no better than my own failed head.
The 3.0 seems to be quite reliable though, had a 93 taurus with one and put over 100K on it, only issue I ever had was the teeth wiped out on one spot of the distributor gear.
 
While youtube has a great selection of "good" instructional videos it unfortunately has far more useless idiotic nonsense...

Case and point...

scotty-kilmer-has-another-great-diy-advice-for-you.jpg
 

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