Would like to go 65 on the highway

[rusty ol ranger]

Ok you've lost me now what are talking about when you say unplugging the spout connector?

If youre looking at the upper intake (the part that says "2.9L Electronic fuel injection" youll see on the passenger side of it a cluster of wires wrapped in a plastic tube. Somewhere protrouding from the tube (or shoved up in it) should be a plug hanging off with a thing that you pull out (that has 2 prongs like a fuse but a thumb/finger grip)

Thats the SPOUT. When unplugged it keeps the computer from controlling timing. It needs to be unplugged when setting base timing.

If its missing/unplugged now then it could cause symptoms similar to what your experencing, but i doubt thats the issue. But you can check.

 

[19Walt93]

The spout connector needs to be removed to set the base timing, otherwise it will be retarded.
The spout looks like this:
http://media.photobucket.com/image/ford spout connector/CRaSAfe/moto_0033.jpg

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

If it won't rev above 2000, you have a major issue.

Lots and lots of tests to do .

Have you checked for fault codes yet?

 

[rusty ol ranger]

If it won't rev above 2000, you have a major issue.

Lots and lots of tests to do .

Have you checked for fault codes yet?

Sounds like itll rev above 2000 but has no balls up there.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Well. That's not a fun one.

If you're lucky: plugged cat, plugged injectors, sensor issue, spark issue, valvetrain out of adjustment, weak fuel pump(s), or ecm on the way out. Could be other stuff as well.


If you're semi lucky: dead valve springs, worn out timing set (REPLACE WITH CLOYES,USE NO OTHER BRAND), dead lifters or 12, other possibilities


If you're unlucky: bad cam, dead lifters, dead trans (I don't know how autos work, and I don't want to know how they work), broken valve, other possibilities.

Can you post a video of it idling, and one driving? We can help a lot more if we hear it.

 

[ropinwillie]

If youre looking at the upper intake (the part that says "2.9L Electronic fuel injection" youll see on the passenger side of it a cluster of wires wrapped in a plastic tube. Somewhere protrouding from the tube (or shoved up in it) should be a plug hanging off with a thing that you pull out (that has 2 prongs like a fuse but a thumb/finger grip)

Thats the SPOUT. When unplugged it keeps the computer from controlling timing. It needs to be unplugged when setting base timing.

If its missing/unplugged now then it could cause symptoms similar to what your experencing, but i doubt thats the issue. But you can check.

Ok I'll definitely try that also thanks

 

[91stranger]

i'd say its time for a new engine..... Maybe there's a reason it never got past 60k miles? Sounds like theres a lot wrong with the truck and it may be time to cut your losses before it becomes a money pit..... You can get better ford engines for a few hundred bucks anymore.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

i'd say its time for a new engine..... Maybe there's a reason it never got past 60k miles? Sounds like theres a lot wrong with the truck and it may be time to cut your losses before it becomes a money pit..... You can get better ford engines for a few hundred bucks anymore.

@ropinwillie you may want to ignore this guy.... shameless troll, and none of us are quite sure he knows which end of the wrench to hold.






The 2.9l is a racing legend in the UK. One of the top performing V6s of the 80s and 90s.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

i'd say its time for a new engine..... Maybe there's a reason it never got past 60k miles? Sounds like theres a lot wrong with the truck and it may be time to cut your losses before it becomes a money pit..... You can get better ford engines for a few hundred bucks anymore.

There is no reason to do this. If you want you can run a compression test on it to verify its not worn out.

But in my 18 years of TRS very rarely have i seen anyone say that a 2.9 is worn out. They are pretty hardy as long as you dont overheat them.

However, while hardy, they are tempermental little bastards that certain things being wrong (like things mentioned in this thread) can make them seem like they are on their deathbed.

 

[ropinwillie]

Well. That's not a fun one.

If you're lucky: plugged cat, plugged injectors, sensor issue, spark issue, valvetrain out of adjustment, weak fuel pump(s), or ecm on the way out. Could be other stuff as well.


If you're semi lucky: dead valve springs, worn out timing set (REPLACE WITH CLOYES,USE NO OTHER BRAND), dead lifters or 12, other possibilities


If you're unlucky: bad cam, dead lifters, dead trans (I don't know how autos work, and I don't want to know how they work), broken valve, other possibilities.

Can you post a video of it idling, and one driving? We can help a lot more if we hear it.

Yeah I will try to get that done soon

 

[91stranger]

@ropinwillie you may want to ignore this guy.... shameless troll, and none of us are quite sure he knows which end of the wrench to hold.






The 2.9l is a racing legend in the UK. One of the top performing V6s of the 80s and 90s.

You're right, I forgot how to hold a wrench.. Ever since I sold my Ford and got a GMC I haven't had to pick up any tools lol. I wasn't dissing the 2.9, I was just warning of how expensive it can be to try to keep something old alive. It's literally a 30yr old truck with VERY LOW miles..... That just sounds like it has sat WAY more than it has been driven so there is going to be more to replace than just engine stuff.... Anything rubber is probably shot, brakes are probably original, fluids will need flushed and changed, tires are probably weather checked, etc.... Sometimes it's not worth the money.... I'm not a fan of losing money or throwing it away. Maybe ya'll like throwing money at stuff but I don't, cut your losses and move on.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

If you buy a vehicle as an investment youll never come out ahead, unless its a 69 roadrunner or something you bought in 1978 for 300 bucks thats worth 30k now.

If its not wrecked, rusted in half, or burned up its always worth fixing.

 

[McWillies]

Mine was similar to yours, gutless, and did 0-60 in about 20 seconds, ended up being the timing. The distributor hold-down clamp was loose and the timing was way off and probably jumping around while I was driving. If you need help finding that feel free to ask. If fuel pressure is good, check the spark plugs and wires. Gap should be .044 on the plugs. Don't trust it if the box says the plugs come "pre-gapped," always check the gap yourself. Take a picture of the old plugs after you pull them out and post it here, spark plugs tell a lot about how it's running. Does the engine idle smooth and consistent or does it have a stutter or hiccup? Little stuff like that can go a long way. Let us know if there's things you notice going on alongside and consistent with the power issue. Is the check engine light on? Smoke from the tailpipe? Don't mean to bury you in questions, but when the problem is as broad as what yours is, it's hard to diagnose without sending you on a wild goose chase.

 

[Cees Klumper]

Check for vacuum leaks also. Could even be a missing vacuum plug somewhere, there's many vacuum line connections on the intake manifold. I'd swap in fresh rebuilt injectors (I always say that, but it's because it's cheap at $60 for 6 and it can make a huge difference, it did in my case).

 

[franklin2]

Vacuum leaks will affect the idle more than wide open high speed operation.