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What to replace my broken leaf spring with


if you have the f-150 spacers you could use those and get 2" or so that way, but if youre looking to buy them from the dealer they you better bring some $! back when i was looking for them i went to the ford dealer and was quoted around $120 for the pair and they said they were discontinued, so i did like Mp3deviant did (or maybe he did like i did?) and welded a stack of washers up to act as the spacer, then installed the 6400 shackles. by installing the shackles i gained about 2.5" or rear lift and it also softened up the ride in the back because they allow the leaf to sit flatter under normal load. it may be most cost effective to get some leaf springs from a junk yard and then swap out the broken leafs for the un broken ones and then just stay around 2-2.5' of lift unless you want to buy a front lift kit or do as bobby has suggested. i also needed longer hoses when i did my spacers, so you might want to be prepared to run into the same issue there as well.
 
I already have the Chevy 1500 leaf springs, so I'm kinda' committed to go that route for 3" of rear lift. I just want the front to sit level with the rear, so I'm assuming I'd need to lift the front about 4.5" to achieve this.

I was just wondering what the most economical way to lift the front would be, while still keeping the ride as smooth as possible. I really don't think 2.5" of lift is going to be enough for me.
 
I already have the Chevy 1500 leaf springs, so I'm kinda' committed to go that route for 3" of rear lift. I just want the front to sit level with the rear, so I'm assuming I'd need to lift the front about 4.5" to achieve this.

I was just wondering what the most economical way to lift the front would be, while still keeping the ride as smooth as possible. I really don't think 2.5" of lift is going to be enough for me.

Your'e gonna need an actual lift kit to get that much lift. It's either that or get bent beams. If you want a smooth ride, do the washers and remove the sway bar. I've heard removing the sway bar on the TIB style suspension makes it ride better. I'm sorry to say that if you want a smooth ride and not break the bank, the washer method is pretty much the way to go. You're gonna have to ditch those Chevy springs if you don't want to buy bent beams or a lift kit.

so i did like Mp3deviant did (or maybe he did like i did?) and welded a stack of washers up to act as the spacer,

I don't think either. Great minds just think alike. :icon_thumby:
 
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How much of an impact on handling would sway bar removal have?

Do I even need spacers? Can I just weld a 4.5" stack of washers together instead?

Can I still use F-150/E-150 radius arms if I move their brackets rearward on the frame?
 
Do I even need spacers? Can I just weld a 4.5" stack of washers together instead?

First of all, a 4.5" stack would yield 6.75" of lift. DON"T do that big of a spacer. That is just plain dangerous. Get a taller coil. Or don't lift it at all if you really don't want to spend the money on a lift coil.
 
So a 4.5" lift is not achievable with washers and/or spacers? I would have to get longer springs?
 
So a 4.5" lift is not achievable with washers and/or spacers? I would have to get longer springs?

You can do it with spacers, it's just really, really sketchy. Longer springs combined with shorter spacers however are fine. Sorry if I sound like an ass, but I'm just looking out for a fellow TRS'er.
 
It's all good. I'll get longer springs if it's dangerous not to. This is my daily driver, so safety and reliability are still a concern. Speaking of which, how much will my handling suffer once I remove the sway bar and raise the truck's center of gravity?

So what about the radius arms? Nothing from a junkyard will suffice for this build?
 
People have been saying, it you don't drive your truck like a sports car, taking off the sway bar will be fine. I don't really know anything about the radius arms though.
 
I think I can live with that. Anyone know about the radius arms?
 

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