What mounts are the easiest

[Benny87]

Doing my first v8 swap what mounts are the easiest I have seen a bunch of different ways but is the mustang convertible mounts the easiest or what running a 302 with a aod

 

[19Walt93]

I was going to use the Mustang convertible mounts to put the 351 into my 93 but the Anchor brand mounts I got from Napa were made wrong and wouldn't bolt to the engine. I reused the old 302 mounts that were in the truck when I got it and I regret it. It has adapters that bolt to the frame with the common 60's and 70's truck mounts on the engine, it's hard to impossible to adjust or neutralize them. I'd either find a better brand of convertible mounts or use the 4.0 mounts and adapters if I did it again.

 

[35Remmy]

Benny I responded in a previous post earlier that I am using the James Duff heavy duty mounts....they are VERY well built, with poly busings etc...could not be built any better in my opinion. However the instructions on where to drill your new holes into the crossmember are terrible and I simply could not go by them. Their measurements were totally wrong and not even close compared to what hole they want you to measure from and mark based on the existing holes in my crossmember...('88 2.9)....not necessarily their fault as i am sure their are many variations over the years. As stated before, I had to use my C4 to locate the engine with the mounts bolted to the block to figure out where it wanted to land, also taking into consideration its position based upon header clearances in side each of the frame rails. With the bellhousing bolted up and the trans mount loose, i lowered the hoist and marked as best as I could where the engine mount studs landed on the crossmember....then centered a punch and marked these locations. Man idk if there is a better way but by the Grace of God it was perfect.

 

[Shran]

I used the Mustang convertible mounts. I would not go that route again, I feel that they make the engine sit too high which also affects how far back you can put it.

 

[Benny87]

So the convertible mounts supposed to fit in 2.8 2.9 an 4.0 mounting location I am not sure also seen conversation plates that mount to the motor an drop on the stud they look like they would make the motor to far forward I don’t know yet wanted to get it done I have everything minus the mounts an don’t really know what route to take

 

[Elutheros]

I bought the flat steel mounts another member was making for $20 and they fit right on top of the old 4.0 mounts. I had to drill an extra hole to make it work for my application, but I like them. My transmission sits on the original mount and I cut the front core to move the radiator forward 2". I have room with the Explorer FEAD to use the OEM Explorer fan or an electric. Somewhere recently I saw those mounts for sale--can't remember what site I was on.

 

[Benny87]

Elutheros I think there the same ones on eBay you would know but I am going to run the 4.0 rad with a big electric fan to see how it dose my truck is lowered so the The height on the engine and the position I would like to keep try to keep the same I believe the motor mounts that you’re talking about the flat piece of metal with two holes drilled in the bolt and the slot hole to move the motor back-and-forth let me know if that’s the same one there on eBay typing V8 swap motor mounts and they pop up

 

[Shran]

The convertible mounts do not fit the stock V6 mount holes. Not even close.

 

[JoshT]

4.0L mounts and adapter plates from Rick's Rangerz

Haven't installed myself, but a lot of people use this combo. Have had a set of L&L swap mounts I got cheap over a decade incase I ever got around to doing a swap, but didn't really like them. Like the Rick's Rangerz setup better so I ordered a set a couple of years ago to put on the shelf for future use.

 

[bobbywalter]

For low 2 wd applications usually better off making your own

 

[2drxploder]

ricks mounts here, used his trans crossmember for the t5 too

 

[.38spl]

I started with Fox Vert mounts, ended up with a contraption that moved the engine 1.5" forward and 1" up, along with redrilling the crossmember because the Vert mounts didn't line up with anything whatsoever.

I am using a stock 5.0 F150 oil pan. I've also slid the engine forward enough that my valve covers will come off and clear the brake booster and the heater box. I reworked my core support so that my radiator is mid mounted to buy extra room, but that also means that my engine, transmission, and transfer will all come out the front in one piece.

There's a dozen ways to go about this, and none are going to be all direct bolt in.