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The current camber bushing is adjustable by turning it and less likely to move on it's own than a 2 piece one. I think some of these guys are rustophobic. Drill out the pinch bolt and retap it, you can bolt and nut it if you have to and it'll work, either way, use grade 8 hardware. Before pulling it out mark it and the spindle with a chisel, pull the shim out and polish it up with a wire wheel and clean up the inside bore, too. Coat it with copper based never seize and reassemble it. I'd also do the other side before getting it aligned, not just to make the tech happy, you want him to be able to set it to "preferred" and not just "in the green". In the green means within tolerance but for example: if the camber is max allowable negative and the toe is max allowable toe out. you'll quickly wipe the inside tread off your tires.
No offence intended, rust is a fact of life in New England, just like sub zero winters. I don't like either but I also don't fear them, I just deal with it. When my nephew and his family moved here from Arizona, his wife told me she learned how to pick up a scorpion before she started school. I'll stick with road salt and frost heaves, thanks.
You have way more common sense than many who have asked me for advice over the years. Once you get it cleaned up a never seized the tech can easily replace it if he needs to.
That kind of shim can be rotated to change caster and camber, I don't remember a case where we had to resort to the split bushing to get one right.
I don't lift vehicles. You can lower any car an inch and make an improvement in handling that the most oblivious driver in the world will notice, raising the center of gravity only makes sense for heavy duty off roading. I also did enough driveline vibration diag in the Fairmont days, I don't need to create new ones in my vehicles.
I had a 351 swapped Fairmont for a bit.
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