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What did YOU do today?


I had spoken with the management that took over Tecumseh. I complained that the seats set out in the kits were not ethanol proof.
Did you install the replacement seat correctly, there is an up side and down side.
The kits are now more expensive than the chinesium carburetors.
If you have a 20 plus year machine you can have throttle shafts leaking air and clogged areas behind welch plugs, replacements that were once included in the kits.
Chineseium for the carbs, but the fuel pumps for my Kawasaki spewed gasoline everywhere, threatening to engulf the machine in flames, and should be avoided IMHO.
If the Chinese carburetor has a solenoid, it may shortly fail.
I misspoke when I said "rebuilt". I should have said " rebuilt with the same parts ". Basically I just took it down to pieces, cleaned everything thoroughly and reassembled. Just because everything's closed here on labor day. What I was saying about the seat was that to my eye, I don't think there's one in there but my vision isn't the greatest. Just looks like pot metal, not brass or copper if that's what it's supposed to be. I'm obviously not a small engine guy.
 
Replaced shocks front and rear on a 94 Ranger 4.0 v6 4x4 and sheared a front passenger side lower shock stud. Nut was locked to stud threads.
I had enough thread left for a nut.
Grabbed lower nut off drivers side and off the hardware store
Bought two 7/16 coarse locknuts, one fat the other skinny. They didn't look quite right in the store.
Went to work on sheared passenger side and it was 12mm x1.25 metric. Gosh darn dagnabit.
Back to hardware store for correct nuts. Cleaned threads up with 50 yr old metric thread file.
Worked on it for a bit and got the nut to start by hand.
Got shock mounted.
I guess the radius rod on the passenger side had been replaced at some time in the past. Assume nothing.

The engine torque damper is also shot. The part is NLA. There are several engine torque dampers for other makes, with two eyelets, and an eyelet conversion kit seems to be the way to go.
Any thoughts?
Skip the torque damper.
 
Inspired by my success with Big Red’s cap, I decided to sand down the side rails and top of the doors and hood of the Missing Linc and repaint those parts (the black around the top).

I originally painted it with a paintbrush, and it had a grain to it almost like a piece of wood. I wanted to smooth it out. I don’t want to make a bad impression next week. I’ve got two coats on it, and it’s much better, but I don’t really know if it was worth the effort except for one thing.

I finally figured out how to put a sanding sheet on an orbital sander so it doesn’t come loose in two or three minutes. It only took me 60 years to figure it out. I have to share it. My original sander was one of the 4“ x 8“ approximately things, but now I have one of the 4“ x 4“ palm Sanders.

I used to take a full-size sheet and just cut it in four, and on a rare occasion I would buy the ready made sheets. But here’s what I developed over the last few weeks.

Starting with the right size sheet, I cut the corners off. It may be a 30° angle. The purpose of this is to have the end of the sheet fit completely under the wire bracket that holds it down. The full sheet would always crumpled up on each end. That gets you halfway home.

The aha moment was when I had the thought to fold over the end of the sheet the tiniest little bit. I literally take about 1/8 of an inch of the edge of the sheet that will go under the clip, and I fold it over so it has a Sandy surface on both sides. When you do this, you have to do it just right or the sheet will be too short. But when you do this, the extra grip of the sand on the backside, hold it in place like a rock. Working on those two trucks is the only time I could remember when I would put on a sheet of sanding paper and use it until it was worn out without knocking it off unless I hit a screw or something.

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Replaced shocks front and rear on a 94 Ranger 4.0 v6 4x4 and sheared a front passenger side lower shock stud. Nut was locked to stud threads.
I had enough thread left for a nut.
Grabbed lower nut off drivers side and off the hardware store
Bought two 7/16 coarse locknuts, one fat the other skinny. They didn't look quite right in the store.
Went to work on sheared passenger side and it was 12mm x1.25 metric. Gosh darn dagnabit.
Back to hardware store for correct nuts. Cleaned threads up with 50 yr old metric thread file.
Worked on it for a bit and got the nut to start by hand.
Got shock mounted.
I guess the radius rod on the passenger side had been replaced at some time in the past. Assume nothing.

The engine torque damper is also shot. The part is NLA. There are several engine torque dampers for other makes, with two eyelets, and an eyelet conversion kit seems to be the way to go.
Any thoughts?
Yeah, it’s a mix of fasteners on these rigs.

I wouldn’t worry about the torque dampener. That was apparently an early 4.0 OHV thing and it went away in later years. None of my trucks have it, and the one that did (my 92), I took it off and it’s in a parts pile somewhere. The little gas strut was shot anyway. The only thing I have that really needs something is my F-150 with the straight 6, I’ve literally ripped motor mounts in half. When I rebuild it, I’m chaining the motor down. Might chain the motor in the dump truck down just for giggles.
 
Just got back from our yearly club event, Dakota Territory Challenge. Three days of wheeling. I ran a couple moderate difficulty trails with the Ranger on Friday and rode along with my wife in the YJ on Saturday & Sunday. Lots of cool rigs there!

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did some more welding on the racks I'm building. sure am glad I have a good grinder to fix mistakes.
racks are tall roll arounds for the garage.
 
Other than the canvas cover for the front, the firewood rack is done as well as the shelf for in the shed. Tomorrow is packing for Kentucky and cutting the grass that wasn't trampled to death during the firewood and shelf builds.
 
The clowns that R&R'ed my evap coil sheared off the recirculation/exterior door in my F150 HVAC system, they had to pull the dash back out, now the center console shifter is very sticky. I think they mis-routed the shifter cable. So the wife has the Ranger, and I have the F150 ready to take the console apart and see what they messed up. Aggies and their cousins....I'll be glad when I move away and leave them to their own demise, finally.

Purchased some "dyna mat" Welco Mat sound & temp insulation that has a PSA so it a peel & stick party coming up. Ordered from Home Depot. Just waiting for the fall when the temps & humidity aren't making most of the job a survival task.

Regarding MPG w/ the AC running, I find early in the mornings, running the first mode to the right (on the rotary knob) from the "OFF" position, the floor & the upper front vents, the AC compressor runs much less, not cycling but slightly ON allowing for cooling in a non AC mode like the 2 positions all the way CCW. Cools great, much cooler than only ambient air. Works to attain better MPG. I know this because my truck gets a whopping 16 MPG.
 
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Regarding MPG w/ the AC running, I find early in the mornings, running the first mode to the right (on the rotary knob) from the "OFF" position, the floor & the upper front vents, the AC compressor runs much less, not cycling but slightly ON allowing for cooling in a non AC mode like the 2 positions all the way CCW. Cools great, much cooler than only ambient air. Works to attain better MPG. I know this because my truck gets a whopping 16 MPG.
As far as I know, the AC compressor only runs in the “A/C” and “MAX A/C” positions. The setting you are talking about is simply bringing in cooler, fresh air from the outside. As long as the temp dial is all the way CCW.

Welcome to the 16 MPG club! Good to know that my truck isn’t broken or something lol
 
As far as I know, the AC compressor only runs in the “A/C” and “MAX A/C” positions. The setting you are talking about is simply bringing in cooler, fresh air from the outside. As long as the temp dial is all the way CCW.

Welcome to the 16 MPG club! Good to know that my truck isn’t broken or something lol
So, the AC will run in AC, Max AC (recirculating cabin air so it starts cooling already cool air instead of cooling warm exterior air), and both Defrost modes (straight defrost and defrost/floor). That’s more so the AC pump gets cycled in the winter.
 
So, the AC will run in AC, Max AC (recirculating cabin air so it starts cooling already cool air instead of cooling warm exterior air), and both Defrost modes (straight defrost and defrost/floor). That’s more so the AC pump gets cycled in the winter.
Huh. That's something I didn't know. My bad @MaicoDoug, I was wrong.
 
i am trying to stay awake and make it through a boring rainy day at work so i can go do blood work. insomnia and no food makes you more tired than normal
 
Huh. That's something I didn't know. My bad @MaicoDoug, I was wrong.

Depending on the year, the split floor and dash selection also runs the A/C. I forget when they started doing that. My '98 didn't have A/C. The 2019 finally caught up with the times and made the A/C a separate option, though I think it still automatically comes on when you select windshield.
 

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