What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[Blmpkn]

Fiances driving the ranger until she learns how to drive her new 6mt car lol. Brought it home yesterday.

2018 focus ST2, 65k, way better equipped than the ranger. Totally jealous -__-

I will say though... I'm 6'2" and 240ish lbs... I'm as big as you can get and still be somewhat comfortable in the Recaro seats that come in these. Definitely not fat guy friendly.

 

[CrabGuy]

Got those 2 replacement Ranger keys made and programmed yesterday. Seeing as how the biner keyring/belt loop combo has failed me twice now I'm going to get my nose pierced with a loop for future key storage. It might be an issue while drinking beer and eating but I doubt I'll lose my keys again.

 

[cbxer55]

I too have a system and it’s worked flawlessly since the mid 90’s. Don’t lose the key.

Pretty much everything I’ve owned has had keyless entry… even my 89 Supercoupe had the factory keypad on the door. It’s hard to get locked out when you know the 5 digit code. It’s even harder to get locked out when you almost never lock your vehicle.

When I do lock it, I use the remote. That way I know the key is in my hand… not in the truck.

I use a key to lock the door, that way I know the key is in my hand. Like I said, I always have two keys to whatever I'm driving that day. During the winter, it allows me to lock the door while leaving the engine running. If someone wants to steal my old 98 beater Ranger, they're welcome to it.

It's like my three garages here where I live. Always use the remote to close the garage door. Inevitably, if I choose for some dumb reason, usually distracted by someone, to close the door using the wall button, I end up locking the remotes in that garage. Then I have to have management come open the door for me. Dumb. Oh well, only done it three times in ten years.

 

[cbxer55]

Got those 2 replacement Ranger keys made and programmed yesterday. Seeing as how the biner keyring/belt loop combo has failed me twice now I'm going to get my nose pierced with a loop for future key storage. It might be an issue while drinking beer and eating but I doubt I'll lose my keys again.

I have a friend, Ted Nugent ( not that Ted Nugent) who owns a store that caters to military and law enforcement. He sells some belt holders for keys that I guarantee, will not fail. I could be sliding down the road after being ejected from one of my bikes, and the keys will still be there when the slide ends. Point being, see if there is a shop like that where you live.

Link below to the item at my friend's shop. The one I use is the first one. Zaktool

Search: 8 results found for "Key holders"

Welcome to Top Tier Tactical the premier home in Oklahoma for top of the line law enforcement, military and first responder equipment and uniforms. We offer highly competitive pricing, friendly staff and a grade A level customer service. We provide city, state and federal quotes as well as bulk...

toptiertac.com

 

[superj]

This is my son's 2014 focus st1. Previous owner put the high end recaros in it, and they are awesome!

That car goes from 60mph to 100mph so quick and quiet I don't even notice till I look down. It's so smooth and quiet.

 

[Blmpkn]

View attachment 78628

This is my son's 2014 focus st1. Previous owner put the high end recaros in it, and they are awesome!

That car goes from 60mph to 100mph I don't even notice till I look down. It's so smooth and quiet.

If I didn't need a truck I would of bought an ST instead of my ranger, hands down.

It's almost painful driving this thing. Besides the seats squeezing me slightly too much.. I like it more than my truck

That front diff is super cool. First FWD car I've driven with a fancy diff.. it certainly changes the whole feel of the car. Thing handles like it's on rails. Took a couple quick corners today with no fuss that her old focus would of definitely been pushing through.. I'm super impressed. It's a shame ford doesn't make them anymore.

Trading my truck for one once my squarebody gm is road worthy is a very real possibility..

 

[superj]

if i didn't need a truck, i would get one too. its an awesome car

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I’d love to have an ST or RS, but everyone around here wants stupid money even if they are thrashed. After Ford stopped making them, everyone started listing them for more than what they had cost new

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

So this garage I’m taking down is being a bit of a problem child… apparently it was put up before they re-paved the lot and it was installed level on a sloped lot, so one side is pretty much on the pavement and the other side is about a foot off the pavement. For the purposes of explaining and how I labeled everything, say we are standing in the middle inside of it facing the garage door with the man door to the left of that…

The left side is flat on the original pavement and the new pavement is against the siding and banked up it to direct water along. It’s nearly flush at the front corner, just banked up there a bit. At the back left corner, the new pavement is about 1’ above the pavement inside the garage and paved right against the siding. From there it holds close to that height about 2/3 of the way across the back, then slopes down to below the bottom rail of the garage by about 8”. I cut or removed every anchor all the way around, they had 2’ long rebar “pins” (it’s 1/2” rebar with a mushroom head) driven down through the bottom rail in places (2 in the front, one in the back and 4 down each side), plus like a 3/4” diameter pin with welded fins driven down through a plate bolted to the bottom rail, 4 down each side, 3 across the back and 2 in front. Even with those all cut or removed (near as I can tell anyway) I can’t get it to budge at all where it’s buried on the outside. I tried prying up and using a jack, but I can’t get the jack under the low side. Got mad and tried winching and about all I succeeded in doing was to accidentally bend the one post.

Not exactly sure what to do at this point but I got a few days to think about it. Needed a break so I’m out at the gf’s for a few days for R&R. The whole thing was spray foamed with closed cell, so taking it apart has been a riot, but I’ve managed to save all the spray foam (most still attached to panels) so I should be able to jigsaw and glue it all back together. Need to deal with the township and get a spot prepped on the property to be able to put it up and I’d like to see about getting the stuff to extend it by about 8’, but it was still a good deal. Came with a propane heater too and the garage door is big enough that my dump should fit through, plus it’s tall enough for a lift

 

[Ranger850]

My buddy ( buries cable for Comcast ) has a "ditch witch" for drilling sideways, (under drive ways and side walks), it also has this "foot" to run Cable in the ground. that foot is hydraulically controlled for up/down movement. He often uses that machine to pull/push up "hold down stakes". Sometimes a chain is used to attach the stake to the "foot" and he pumps the foot up to pull the stake out. Maybe you know somebody with one of these machines.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

My buddy ( buries cable for Comcast ) has a "ditch witch" for drilling sideways, (under drive ways and side walks), it also has this "foot" to run Cable in the ground. that foot is hydraulically controlled for up/down movement. He often uses that machine to pull/push up "hold down stakes". Sometimes a chain is used to attach the stake to the "foot" and he pumps the foot up to pull the stake out. Maybe you know somebody with one of these machines.

Unfortunately I do not, lol. All stakes that I’m aware of I have either pulled or cut off. Only thing I can think of is maybe there is a heavy piece of flashing sandwiched between the framing and siding and nailed to the pavement then buried by the new pavement. With spray foam on the inside, I can’t really tell, but I’m guessing it was done like the two exposed sides were. I was hoping that it would pull or pry free without much trouble, but here we are

About the only idea I’ve come up with so far would be to buy a big angle grinder and try cutting everything below the bottom rail, out through the siding and all. I intend to set it on what will be the future turn around for my permanent garage, so it will be on essentially a flat slab, so I don’t need anything below the bottom rail. But that’s also a hella lot of grinding.

 

[Ranger850]

Unfortunately I do not, lol. All stakes that I’m aware of I have either pulled or cut off. Only thing I can think of is maybe there is a heavy piece of flashing sandwiched between the framing and siding and nailed to the pavement then buried by the new pavement. With spray foam on the inside, I can’t really tell, but I’m guessing it was done like the two exposed sides were. I was hoping that it would pull or pry free without much trouble, but here we are

About the only idea I’ve come up with so far would be to buy a big angle grinder and try cutting everything below the bottom rail, out through the siding and all. I intend to set it on what will be the future turn around for my permanent garage, so it will be on essentially a flat slab, so I don’t need anything below the bottom rail. But that’s also a hella lot of grinding.

I can't wrap my head around what you're describing. It sounds like they have paved over the bottom of the frame. So my next suggestion was going to be "sectioning" off the bottom 6" and replace with similar tubing.

Everything below the red square. Assuming the right side is higher than the left, you would lop off the right side as low to the ground as possible ( sawzall ). come straight across ( level ) and lop off the left side the same distance. ( from top of Door Bay Door to ground level.) Then on your slab, build the frame of the shed to be level.

 

[ekrampitzjr]

My grandfather had a fairly large shed that actually attached to threaded stud-like anchors into the ground at the corners. My cousin cut off the studs to disassemble it and move it after my grandfather passed away. You might have something like that, depending on your local rules about anchoring outbuildings.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I can't wrap my head around what you're describing. It sounds like they have paved over the bottom of the frame. So my next suggestion was going to be "sectioning" off the bottom 6" and replace with similar tubing.
View attachment 78677

Everything below the red square. Assuming the right side is higher than the left, you would lop off the right side as low to the ground as possible ( sawzall ). come straight across ( level ) and lop off the left side the same distance. ( from top of Door Bay Door to ground level.) Then on your slab, build the frame of the shed to be level.

So I didn’t consider the picture, I just explained by how I labeled things. In the picture, the side with the ladders is almost a foot off the ground in the front, they just ran the siding down past the bottom plate. They had a huge rubber flap attached at an angle across the bottom of the garage door to make up the difference. On the side the truck is on, the bottom plate is pretty much on the pavement on the inside, but below outside. In the back corner that is visible through the garage door is a foot below the outside pavement. I thought it should pull relatively easily towards the ladder side once I cut the anchors, but it’s not.

 

[Blmpkn]

Found a good deal on some wheels/tires last night, headed to NH to pick them up around dinner time tonight.

18x9 method MR316s with a +18 offset wrapped in 275/65 general grabbers that have 7500 miles on them. They come with two sets of hub rings, tpms sensors, and black lugs.

Close to 2500 value, all for 450

Dude must of only had them listed on the 5g website.. and not locally.. cause he's been trying to unload them since March lol.