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What Can You ACTUALLY Tow? Payload -Tow Capacity


translator, not my skills


right click on a foreign text,, hit translate to english
 
I know what a TCC is, that foreign script that makes no sence. Probably spam of some sort.
 
So, I heard back from Ford. Their response letter 100% useless just as I figured.

"Because we do not have any information in our system that differentiates the towing capabilities between the 2 transmissions (auto VS manual), I am unable to advise if the abilities change based on the type." So, given that honestly it sounds as though Ford just has no idea, which they're the ones that designed and built it you'd think they could answer that question with a logical explanation, but what do you expect from an automaker these days.

The letter further goes on stating everything we already know that vehicle options, engines, etc. all play a role in towing capacity. That aside, why can't my 87 Ranger 2.9L V6, 4x2 long bed 5 speed with 3.73 gear ratio tow the same trailer an 87 Ranger 2.9L V6 4x2 long bed with the automatic and 3.73 axle ratio can tow. They completely left out the answer. So with the response I got I'd think both trucks could tow the same thing being equipped the same. The weight of the vehicle plays a factor in how much it can tow, well if that's the case the same Ranger equipped the same just an auto vs manual wouldn't weigh that much different overall, so why would you be able to tow a 5k pound trailer behind the auto vs 2k pound trailer behind the manual...I mean other than the way people drive they'd smoke the clutch right out of the manual. Aside from that, you get a person that knows how to drive there's no honest reason you couldn't tow the same trailer with either truck. Some have mentioned the way the gears are cut and mesh in a manual, well that logic should be the same behind a 1 ton dually manual then as well, or a semi-truck for that matter. People have been towing for decades with manuals just fine, so really is the truth actually in the loose nut behind the wheel being the real reason? I'd have to think so. Given when you push that clutch pedal in you just disconnected the drive wheels from the engine, now you have no engine braking, and no connection to the ground, so, someone with less than good driving skills on a hill may end up not ending up where they intended to go as that trailer pushes them down the hill for example. I'd have to think that would make more logical sense overall then the way the gears are between a manual and automatic if you have a good driver they should be able to tow the same weight regardless which transmission is there.
 
I think there is a lot of truth in what you say wildbill23c. I don't think US manufacturers are willing to chance the potential liability due to the general inexperience the general US population with manual transmissions. There is also the issue with insurance companies. If they catch wind of the fact that you are towing over what the vehicle manufacturer recommends after an accident happens, they may deny your claim. Some insurance companies may even drop you. They have been known to do so for less.

All that being said, I have no plans to exceed the manufacturer's recommendations. More because I don't have a use for a trailer that big than fear of any safety factor or liability/insurance issues.

Manufacturers often build in a kind of safety buffer for different things in any case. Unless it's something like fluid changes where most people don't know any better and believe that things like the gear oil in the rear axle is "good for the life of the vehicle" and that 10,000 mile oil changes are a good thing.
 
I think there is a lot of truth in what you say wildbill23c. I don't think US manufacturers are willing to chance the potential liability due to the general inexperience the general US population with manual transmissions. There is also the issue with insurance companies. If they catch wind of the fact that you are towing over what the vehicle manufacturer recommends after an accident happens, they may deny your claim. Some insurance companies may even drop you. They have been known to do so for less.

All that being said, I have no plans to exceed the manufacturer's recommendations. More because I don't have a use for a trailer that big than fear of any safety factor or liability/insurance issues.

Manufacturers often build in a kind of safety buffer for different things in any case. Unless it's something like fluid changes where most people don't know any better and believe that things like the gear oil in the rear axle is "good for the life of the vehicle" and that 10,000 mile oil changes are a good thing.

I agree, I stick well within the guidelines that the manufacturer says too, I don't even tow close to what a vehicle is rated for, leaves a good space cushion there just in case type thing. Just got home from a pick a part yard, managed to get there and back with the u-joint in the rear drive shaft in the ranger vibrating like crazy, appointment made at the shop to have that taken care of this week. I'm sure I could do the U-joints myself but for $200 they got all the nice fancy tools and a lift, none of which I have LOL.
 
Hammers are fancy tools? :dunno:
 
Hammers are fancy tools? :dunno:

More like the press, vise, lift, air tools, etc. that make doing that type of work much easier and faster. My neck, and back hurt for days after crawling around under a vehicle at home, even with a creeper its not any better have no clue why.
 
You hang out with a creeper?!?! That might not be advisable...
 
tenor (16).gif
 
You hang out with a creeper?!?! That might not be advisable...

LOL. Well the automotive service type, don't have the $8-10k for a lift...someday though, but I want to enclose my carport and turn it into a garage first that way I can put a lift on the concrete pad.
 
I was told when your rims are touching pavement, you have reached your payload/tow limit.
 
Brass is for being gentle. U-joint removal is the opposite of gentle...

In the immortal words of Gary Busey "My daddy always said, When you want to insert a nail into a piece of wood, don't do anything fancy or glamorous. Just take the damn hammer and hit the son of a bitch until it's in."
 
Brass is for being gentle. U-joint removal is the opposite of gentle...
Brass balls are pretty tough. I've removed u joints with mine...and probably made something pregnant.
 

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