What Brand Mud Terrain Do You Use?

[Craig0320]

3/4-1 tons eat any mud tire up especially towing. Thanks for pointing that out. The 50k ones were on yotas and rangers and they were bald in the middle. They are not really meant for a lot of highway towing at all. You are right the nittos they are damn good tires on the road. They are pretty good off road. My point of view basically coming from local mud park where tractor tires are on tons of stuff now. There is no comparison between the two though. It sucks on the size choices now (as you pointed out bobby) the wide mudders are only offered in 15 and 16's now.

 

[bobbywalter]

yeah, the pipeliners with older trucks run them because they have too. but they are cheap enough it dont matter.


for a mud tire...they rule the roost for that size envelope for damn sure. and the size works for duals


i see the patriots on the newer welding rigs. nothing cheap about the new trucks...the brakes get messed up all the time from goo and its 11-1400 to have it done......shivers....so the high dollar tires are par.



for sure the nitto for running cross country with the trs truck would be my first choice. not cheap, but not overly expensive either.



for what i do on the service rig stuff...i run the msr on the shop truck and yokohama geo-lander i/t on my ranger. cooper dont make them in a 35 anymore.

 

[Jim Oaks]

Treadwright doesn't make a 35x12.5x15

 

[fastpakr]

I forgot about that. They must be removing sizes from production that don't sell well anymore. 15's are going away these days. Might be time for a set of 17's to keep your options open.

 

[adsm08]

I forgot about that. They must be removing sizes from production that don't sell well anymore. 15's are going away these days. Might be time for a set of 17's to keep your options open.

Well, given the way Treadwright make their tires they are at the mercy of what is already out there.

 

[fastpakr]

Also a good point. Their offerings will always reflect the common sizes out of necessity.

 

[Curious Hound]

I'll probably run BFGs as long as I can afford to buy them. Always had their MTs on my F150. Currently running the ATs on my Ranger. Always work well for me and I seem to get good life out of them.

This message composed solely of recycled electrons. Go green!

 

[Jim Oaks]

Treadwright has a page to request a size, so I contacted them.

I know that the 15-inch rim isn't very common any more, but I don't want to have to spend money to replace them if I don't have to.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I don't have a lot of experience with mud tires but I spent a bunch of years building lightweight trail buggies, sand dune cars and 300 foot WOT drag stuff. The overall weight of the wheels and tires always played into the build. We even spent good money after buying a new set of paddle tires to have them shaved to the cords to save a couple pounds per tire. Yikes!

I wanted to put mud tires on my truck because I like the way they look... but looking at the weight and longevity and the fact that I don't believe I need the M/T aggressiveness... I'm gonna go with lighter weight A/T tires. They will save a bunch of wear and tear on the suspension... driveline... wheel bearings and brakes losing 15 to 20 pounds per corner.

I did find the tire selection tool at Tire Rack listed the actual tire weight for most of the popular brands if anyone wants to consider tire weight in their selection process.

 

[Craig0320]

It all depends on what size you go with. If you stick to the same size m/t as the a/t you are running then the weight difference isn't very much. My 30 inch at2's are around 38 pounds. Most 30 inch mud tires I have found are 5 to 8 pounds heavier depending on ply and tread depth.

 

[Captain Ledd]

I put a set of Treadwrights on my GMC, whatever their BFG A/T knockoff is. I've had a shake that no tire shop seems to be able to get rid of, IF I find a shop that's even willing to touch them. I went to about 6 before I found a local chain that begrudgingly agreed to put them on. I'm pretty sure they instituted a policy that they wouldn't touch them as well after me because of the trouble they had.

Even before they tried he said he was weary of the retreads because they couldn't tell the age of the casing, and the rubber might be super hard and stiff. Which turned out to be the case with mine, and the inner bead ripped itself off after trying to install the tire and they had to send it out to do a bead repair. Then had to wait for that to be done and then had to wait another day for their "expert tire mounter" to come in and still had to be real careful with them as the others started ripping too, but not to the extent the previous attempt was made.

As for the shake, They either flat spot REAL easy or have a hump, because it kinda goes away after you drive it for an hour, but it comes right back after you park it for a week or two. No shop has been able to get rid of it. And I can't determine which tire it is for any kind of warranty regardless of how much I move them around on the truck, it might be two of them or all of them to a certain extent.

In the end he said he could have sold me a set of Kelly A/T's for about the same price. I'm almost certain they would have been of better quality.

Between the time, gas and money spent trying to find a shop, and the lack luster performance, I'd have to say I'd recommend looking for a deal or a sale on standard or even off brand tires before going to a re-tread.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Craig... that was the point for my purposes. They're just plain heavier... I wanted M/T's but didn't need them. I will save the weight on my truck... the money difference in price... the wear/tear factor the additional weight causes and add bonus mileage to the life of the tire.

If you need a mud tire and compare M/T's to M/T's... there are some fairly big differences... and it all matters.

 

[Will]

I like 15" wheels. Lots of rubber.

Retreads are just strips of tread glued onto the old tire. I don't know how Treadwrights were done in the past, but now they wrap the shaved carcass in new rubber and put it in a mold to cure it and form the tread. It's not going to come apart like a retread. MT/Rs are $1,000 for 4. I paid $503.95 for 4 Treadrights shipped to my door. Tire Barn put them on and didn't say anything.

I'm happy with the $500 I didn't spend. But I can see not wanting to make a mistake twice. It's worth checking out their website and seeing if they have changed the way they do things.

I like the cheap Chinese tires on Ebay, too.

Back when I bought Kumhos everyone was hacking on them as they were cheap and strange back then. Now Kumhos have gotten good reviews and gotten a lot more expensive, too. They came from the factory on our new Mercedes.

 

[Craig0320]

Bobby I forgot to mention on the higher mile wide mudders an old buddy of mine cruised 16th section timber for years 75% of his driving was on gravel roads and mud. He got 50k out of three sets. Another set was on a county owned yota ridding rural roads to check conditions and those ran around 40k. Mined you both of these were rotated properly.

 

[Shran]

I like 15" wheels. Lots of rubber.

Retreads are just strips of tread glued onto the old tire. I don't know how Treadwrights were done in the past, but now they wrap the shaved carcass in new rubber and put it in a mold to cure it and form the tread. It's not going to come apart like a retread. MT/Rs are $1,000 for 4. I paid $503.95 for 4 Treadrights shipped to my door. Tire Barn put them on and didn't say anything.

That's how they were made when I was in their facility, and I'm sure they still do it that way. I believe they had a big roll of tread that was cut to length and then vulcanized onto the carcass... same way it was done in the past, but they are able to overlap the sidewall a little. It's a better retread, but a retread nonetheless.

My vote is still for MTR's. Can't really speak to lifespan because my truck isn't really driven on the street much. They have held up very well to 4 years of rocks. Street/highway manners are fantastic, and they are not loud like other mud tires.